Never Stop Driving #114: The Tail of the Dragon Never Gets Old

DW Burnett

Last week, I had an unplanned reunion at Tail of the Dragon, the Tennessee road famous for its scenic curviness—there are some 300 bends along an 11-mile stretch through the wilderness that divides the Great Smoky Mountains from the Cherokee National Forest. A destination road for anyone who loves driving, the Dragon is cherished by locals who often call it “Deals Gap.” The road is officially known as Route 129.  

I first visited back in 1990 and, naturally, have returned dozens of times. During one stopover in 2014, I learned about an underground competition to drive the Dragon the fastest. I’d long heard rumors that a good finish time was about ten minutes to cover a nine-mile stretch from the Calderwood Lake lookout to the North Carolina border. Nine miles in 10 minutes is about 54 mph, which seemed impossibly fast for those tight turns. Ten minutes, I assumed, must have been just another BS rumor.  

But during that trip a decade ago, some locals told me that 10 minutes was legit. They also spun tales about a mysterious driver who’d show up at night, set a faster time than anyone, and then disappear. The idea of this unnamed driver immediately captivated me, and I knew I had to find a way to tell one of the most compelling car stories I’d ever heard. I became obsessed with tracking down this mystery man. After dozens of calls, I made contact—through an intermediary—with him, and he agreed to let me follow him on the Dragon to see if I could keep up. I arrived in Tennessee in June 2014 with the fastest horse I could find, a Ferrari 458 Speciale.

The driver didn’t want his name revealed, so when I wrote the article for Road & Track, I called him Mr. Davis. He was not only a very capable driver but also a teacher who’d informally show others how to properly control both cars and motorcycles on twisty Appalachian routes. During my time in Tennessee in 2014, I got to know a small group of hyperenthusiastic car folks who were lucky enough to live near some of the world’s best roads. While I haven’t spoken to Mr. Davis since then, I’m in regular contact with others and find my way back there every so often, like I did last week.  

After finishing dinner at the remote Tapoco Lodge, we had to take the Dragon to get back to our hotel. I drove cautiously because it was incredibly dark and even the high beams of my 2017 Corvette did little to illuminate the curves. We pulled onto the Calderwood Lake overlook at around 9:30 p.m., joining a pair of motorcyclists. Their bikes were sportbikes, essentially racing machines for the street, and the riders were dressed in one-piece protective leather suits. They were not there to cruise. Of course, I was going to talk to this pair and when I did, imagine my surprise when one of them turned out to be the one and only Mr. Davis. 

Yup, he’s still at it. Mr. Davis recently retired so he has more time for driving and mentoring. The other rider, much younger, was a protegé who addressed Mr. Davis as “Jedi,” which is the honorific title regularly used. I loved that. There’s a code among the locals, an informal set of rules to avoid accidents that attract more patrols. They run at night and stay in their lanes, for example, and they respect their elders. For all the details, listen to this week’s Never Stop Driving podcast on Apple and Spotify. Please share and rate the podcast—I’d love to reach more folks.

That fun unplanned meetup capped an intense week of gathering material for upcoming issues of Hagerty Drivers Club magazine. If you’d like the magazine and support all the free media we produce, please join the club via this link.  

There was also plenty of terrific news and stories this week from Hagerty and the rest of the car world. Here are some highlights: 

  • This week on Hagerty Auctions, some lucky bidders bought a Honda CT70, a Bullitt Mustang, and a Datsun 510. Go shopping and have fun.  

Tonight, and tomorrow, it’s Radwood in Motown! I’ll be at the car show in front of Ford’s fabulously restored Michigan Central Station Friday night, so come say hi if you’re there. I hope to see you.  

Thanks for reading! 

Larry 

P.S.: Your feedback and comments are welcome.   

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Comments

    Another fun show. Thanks guys. Cameron’s commentary on LS Fest reminded me of a great youtube channel where a guy and his dad document their complete re-engineering of a Triumph GT-6, including an LS swap. The amount and level of work these guys have done in a single car garage is pretty amazing. Custom suspension, wipers, pedal, hood hinges, you name it. All done by them in their garage – its nuts. You should definitely get them on the show. Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/@FanatikBuilds

    I haven’t read alot of your stories since signing up, but I’m glad I was able to take the time to read this one, I thoroughly enjoyed it and Mr. Davis’ courage and skill. You didn’t mention what he drove, but maybe that would potentially give away his true identity? It would be fun to know! Thanks for the story!

    I’m sure TotD is nice. But then,
    try The Snake: 489 curves in 33 miles. We take a group of a dozen or so 30-year-old Japanese cars on it every year.

    My wife and I were down there with another couple and we drove it and had a blast. We went to a town for lunch and ended up talking to another gentlemen who drives it a couple of times a week. H e says the underground record is 7.32 on a motorcycle and they were not respecting stay in your lane for that run.

    these Dragon + Snake roads must be superatives, but most of us have probably also been similarly tempted somewhere. the need for speed and to press your luck is obvious, but this behavior can’t possibly be legal and the liabilty is huge. if there were an accident it could be manslaughter and jail. >>> ?? So, what is the posted legal speed limit on these roads, and a legal travel time anyway – as compared to your colleagues boasted times and average speeds?? ??do the authoriities involved ever open these routes for supervised time trials – like Pikes Peak?? sounds a lot like the Cannonball Express and Smokey + the Bandit – begging for an outlaw movie. ??and why don’t the locals lower their tax rates by speed trapping + ticketing all the visitors, and maybe put up park fees + pay toilets at the Calderwood Lake outlook?? what happens when you finally get into Kentucky? frankly, i’m way too old for this foolishness, was never that good anyway, can’t afford to get caught or the embarassment, and am still trying to resist such temptations daily – poorly, without much luck, and without real success – maybe the devil made me do it, again. drive to get there alive. / sn

    To this day, I have wondered if I drove this unknowingly. In December 1984, I had a brand new Mercedes 190E, with a 5-speed stick. I was headed to a friend’s place in Blowing Rock from Washington, DC and overshot the NC exit off I-81 and landed in Tennessee. I checked the map and located route 67, from Elizabethton, then stopped at a gas station to fuel up and asked if that was the right road up to Boone, NC. Yup.

    It was late in the afternoon and light was getting dim. I started off well and was zigging and zagging up what seemed like a dry creak bed; probably about 2/3 the way up, I ran up to a lumbering truck. From then on, I wished I were in Vermont where one can pass over double-yellows legally. But I wasn’t. I finally got to the top and out from behind the truck.

    Can’t recall any details other than I got to Boone and then to the summit of Blowing Rock where my friend’s chalet was located. He’s a native Bavarian, so he chuckled knowingly at my story.

    Just checking the map now, I see it is not the official Deals Gap/Rt 129, but I recall it being quite a workout for that little 4-cyl MB engine. Check it out as an alternative.

    Interesting article. Coincidentally, I was there last week too, with 11 of my fellow Capital Corvette Club Members from Ottawa, Ontario. We were part of the 30th Corvette Caravan at Bowling Green the previous weekend, who decided to continue the adventure. We drove up and back again. What a blast !! I can’t imagine doing it at night though. What a beautiful area with great, challenging roads. Sandra

    You were probably running with the legendary, Killboy who ruled in my time there. you choice of “weaponry” was not the best as the Ferrari, although a fast car really has too long a wheelbase for those undulating supertight hairpins. The choice should have been something like a Subaru WRX, Mazda Miata, Lotus Elise, or Porsche, something light that can be tossed around those turns IMHO

    I still say there are dozens of Tails in West Virginia that many have not discovered. The roads are in great condition and the turns and even some banking are amazing.

    Down there it is amazing to be hauling in a sports sedan and only to find a local in a pick up come from no where, pass you and leave you on these roads.

    Never underestimate locals. They have track time on these roads.

    a LEO – v interesting, seems reasonable – at the v least the police must be well aware of what’s happening on that road – a stealth LEO might help pin down the tail of their attractive nuisance a bit – your links show the locals also make a cottage industry out of the road. hope nobody driives aggressively on the 1st time thru. but driving fun aside, still, having nearly been killed while driving myself, i think we all need to drive responsibly and safely – we don’t own the roads. often driving twice the posted limit or 25 to 50 over the limit, is driving to endanger and can cost you big $ or your license. might be a long walk home. and you never know who or what’s around the next corner.

    I remember your R&T article about the Dragon, and really liked it. I had driven it on Veterans Day, 2013 in my NC Miata, with almost no traffic. Unfortunately, I was only able to drive it from the NC line to the overlook, and not back down, as my wife was with me, she was getting carsick. I want to go back sometime with my ND2 Miata, and drop her off at the foot, so I can drive it both directions.

    Larry, I forgot to ask you on Friday when I saw you… What did you find in the data that differentiated Mr. Davis and his car from yourself in the Speciale?!

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