Classic Car Tires: Everything You Need to Know

1964 Mercedes-Benz 230 SL Pagoda equipped with Pirelli Cinturato rubber. Broad Arrow

There’s a certain “chef’s kiss” feeling when the details on a car are just right. Whether you’ve spotted them at a show, a local cruise-in, or an online listing, period-style tires on a vintage car look great—and they can make a big difference in how an old vehicle drives. Modern tires made specifically for classic cars are even better than the originals.

The terms “modern” and “classic car” may seem incongruous when describing this type of tire, but in reality, they’re a perfect descriptor. A modern classic car tire looks like what might have been mounted to a car’s wheels from the factory when it was new, but they’re manufactured with up-to-date rubber compounds and construction designed to last a long time, hold up to major temperature variations, and provide good traction on a variety of surfaces. These are not your typical reproduction parts.

Here’s what you need to know about this special kind of tire.

Classic Car Tire Basics: What Makes Them Different?

Classic Car Tires Ganz Alfa Romeo
Author Andrew Ganz purchased this Giulietta Spider with classic rubber on it.Andrew Ganz

The wheels on many postwar cars can handle standard passenger car tires, even if their sizing isn’t quite the same as what the manufacturer originally specified. For instance, the original tire size on a 1968 BMW 2002 is listed as “165 SR 13” in the owner’s manual; if you roll down to your local big-box tire shop with those numbers, they’ll probably steer you toward the present-day equivalent, approximately a 185/70R-13 tire. Major retailer Tire Rack offers a few tires in that size, ranging from about $72 to upward of $330 per corner. That’s a massive price span, and it might seem tempting to buy four of the cheapest for less than one of the most expensive.

The compound and tread on the cheapest tire in this situation is meant for a modern compact car, like a Toyota Corolla, while the big-buck ones have been designed for a vintage car. They’re both round and black, but that’s about where the similarities end.

Compared to today’s tires, classic car tires have a uniquely shaped carcass—the industry term for the tire’s profile—that results in a smaller contact patch with the pavement below. A thinner patch of rubber on the ground isn’t a boon for traction, but it does make the car easier to turn if the steering system is unassisted. The rounded carcass of a tire meant for a classic car also rolls over differently in hard cornering, which results in handling more akin to what the automaker originally intended.

These tires are also made from modern compounds that are more durable and heat-resistant than what tire manufacturers were able to use in period. They’ll last far longer than the originals, and they’ll provide better traction. Manufacturers assemble them to quality standards simply unachievable back when your car was brand new.

Advancements in synthetic polymers, silica, and carbon black over the last several decades have helped make modern tires grippier, less prone to punctures, and more fuel-efficient than the rubber your classic first wore when it left the factory. Conversely, tire manufacturers face more manufacturing and material-sourcing restrictions today than they did decades ago. Producers have begun to turn to more sustainable ways of producing rubber, an initiative addressing major concerns about the amount of rubber particles in the atmosphere that can be traced to tire dust.

Just what goes into a tire’s construction is proprietary—a closely guarded secret recipe that no tire manufacturer will fully disclose.

“Using a high-quality, full-silica tread compound, we ensure an ideal blend of heritage styling with modern safety and handling performance,”  says Patrick Meeley, a representative for Dutch manufacturer Vredestein, which has a wide lineup of classic car tires. “Every aspect of the tread and compound works together seamlessly to achieve this balance.”

Classic car tires also have a tread pattern that looks period-correct. Put tires intended for a Corolla on the BMW 2002 example above and they just won’t look right.

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Bias-Ply vs. Bias-Ply Look vs. Radial Tires

Beginning in the late 1960s and continuing into the early 1980s, automakers phased out bias-ply tires in favor of long-lasting radial tires. If you have a classic car that was built before the phase-out, you may want to weigh the advantages of each construction type.

Bias-Ply-Tire-vs-Radial-Tire
Bridgestone

Bias-ply tires have lots of rubber and soft sidewalls that result in a pillowy ride. However, they give up quickly in hard cornering, tend to make the steering wander at speed, and don’t last very long. Unless you’re willing to live with these major compromises in pursuit of a wholly authentic vintage driving experience, or the only movement your car does is from the trailer to the concours field, you should probably stick with radial tires.

“[Bias-ply] tires replicate the look, feel, and driving characteristics of the original period-correct tires, making them ideal for car shows, Concours events, and hot rods where maintaining historical accuracy is essential,” Coker Tire representative Matthew Millsaps explains.

Then there are bias-ply look tires—modern-construction tires designed for cars from the mid-1970s or earlier that, despite authentic appearances, are radials. They feature an “R” in the tire size descriptor, indicating as such.

“They’re simply the best of both worlds,” Millsaps said.

Shopping For Classic Car Tires

Vredestein Sprint Classic tire
Vredestein Sprint ClassicVredestein

Enthusiasts have a lot more tire choices today for a period-style tire than even a decade ago. A number of tire manufacturers offer classic lines, including Dunlop, Michelin, Pirelli, and Vredestein. Others, like BFGoodrich and Firestone, have licensed their designs to Coker Tire.

Not all classic tires are created equal. Michelin’s Pilot Exalto PE2 tire, for instance, was developed in the early 2000s when the manufacturer watched wheel sizes grow and discovered that owners of 1980s and 1990s “modern classics” with tires sized between 13 and 16 inches had few options. The Exalto range doesn’t emulate a classic tread design, though the small sizes make it an appealing choice for sports cars.

Some choices come down to personal—or period—preferences, like white sidewall lettering (commonly called OWL, or outline white lettering), whitewalls, or Vogues with gold stripes. There’s nothing like Firestone Wide O Oval lettering for a 1977 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, after all. Such decisions may be very easy to make.

Trans-Am-Firestone-Wide-Oval_Coker
Firestone Wide Oval Radial tires on a Pontiac Firebird Trans Am.Coker Tire

A handful of automakers—Porsche and Mazda, in particular—make it easy. They have partnered with tire manufacturers to develop rubber specifically intended for their vehicles. Tires vetted by Porsche have an “N” marking on them, which major tire retailers will also typically call out. The automaker’s classic division, Porsche Classic, even maintains a tire approval list, though you may want to contact a dealer for the latest iteration.

Ultimately, you should talk to an expert before ordering tires. Coker, Tire Rack, and other specialty retailers have car enthusiasts on staff who can help steer you in the right direction.

“We like to talk cars,” Millsaps says. “And tires.”

Why You Might Not Want Classic Car Tires

1965 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA front
1965 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA sporting classic Pirelli treads.Broad Arrow

Beyond price considerations, there are a few reasons why tires designed for a modern car might be a better fit.

Suppose you plan to use your car for track days. In that case, you may benefit from a dedicated performance tire with a wide contact patch and a rubber compound specifically meant for the heat generated by repeated, grueling use. Of course, that’s all thrown out the window if your car competes in vintage road racing, where period-style tires are a must-have.

1965 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA side low angle
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Beware, however, that a modern-style tire will wear out your car’s suspension components and wheels in ways you might not expect. That wide contact patch and stiff sidewall that contribute to so much grip will stress the vehicle’s components beyond what its designers intended. You may wind up replacing suspension parts and wheels earlier than expected.

“This can make the ride harsher and reduce the ‘vintage’ driving experience, such as the softer, more forgiving ride and looser handling dynamics some classic cars are known for,” noted Millsaps.

Speaking of wheels, your resto-modded muscle car that rides on 18-inchers will need modern-design tires. Then again, if you’re putting big wheels on your old car, you’re probably not prioritizing ride quality, anyway.

It’s all a matter of preference, but there are more tire choices than ever to create the driving experience, look, and authenticity enthusiasts want. Happy driving!

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Comments

    Why doesn’t some company make 255/50VR16 tires for a C4 Corvette? There were a couple hundred thousand C4s made. Besides $2200 Michelins. My tire rant.

    Have we all forgot about those milimetric TRX Michelin had for performace BMWs and some beautiful Ferraris as 328s or Mondial models during the mid 80s??
    BMW e24 series 6, 628 all the way up to M635i, 528i-533i-535i and M5 e28 at the late 80s??

    Remeber those real expensive 220/55 ZR-390 and 240/45 ZR-415??.

    Over here in Europe you can still get them under special order for around US $500.00 a piece.
    Nevertheless most of those wonderfull Bimmer owners have changed them for regular 225/50ZR16s or 245/45ZR17s swapping those 390/415 milimetric rims for regular 16-17″ rims.

    In the almost 40 yrs since my 65 Mustang Fastback 2+2 has been restored I’ve had 3 different styles of tires on it. The first style was a set of B.F. Goodrich Radial T/A’s in a 225R60-14 & 245R60-14 setup. After a year of showing and not winning I changed over to a set of U.S. Royal Dual Red Line bias tires (6.95-14). I drove & showed the car for years with this setup and the car looked great but rode terribly. Due to needing new tires and not having time/money to order them, I remounted the T/A’s back on and forgot how much better the car handled with radials. A couple of years ago I replaced the T/A’s due to age (35 yrs old) with a set of Coker Classic dual redline radials. Now I have the better ride/handling with the period correct look.

    I have an uphill driveway to the county road and my 1959 Cadillac 6229 was scraping on the lip. I went with Coker American Classics which raised the yacht 1.5″…enough to clear. A later redo of the driveway by an Amish contractor made things better. My 1960 SDV now has them, and they are a good drive. The radials on my low miles 2000 Eldorado are already cracking the sidewalls after 5 years.

    68 Fairlane Fastback here. I run BF Goodrich Radial TAs. Relatively inexpensive, good look for this era car, ride and handle well, long lasting.

    My Lotus Turbo Esprit HCI has 15″ rims, but I cannot find W,Y, or Z rated tires in 15″ rims. I could even accept a V rated tire (149mph) which is still below the vehicle’s capability. Anybody know any manufacturer still making them? I would love to be able to keep the original rims as it has historical significance.

    Sorry Randy – it did sorta sound like l was “telling” people what to do, but it was an observation regarding the significantly modified cars l’ve driven (owned and “for sale” by others).

    Poor installation workmanship (we’ve all seen chuncks sawed out of cross-members), over-powered chassis, unintended handling problems, over-looked mechanical glitches, money spent for disappointing results, even unsafe consequences. Lots of pitfalls if you’re not careful enuff – and many aren’t.

    And then they come up for sale – and l’ve driven some. They are advertized as some kind of “New and Improved”, but their toy disappointed the builder after a while and it’s now for sale. YOU get to find out if you are sucked in. Check out the modified cars for sale ads. Beware!

    If you’re disappointed by a truly stock car, then the onus is on you because you didn’t do your homework. With a modified car, well….. details, details, details!

    You can build/customize something you like and enjoy (l’ve done that, but it wasn’t a “big three”, car so it took a while to sell), but make sure you build a toy that is safe and up to GOOD professional standards. Many “toys” are not.

    Or, instead of ripping out everything from a ’55 Chevy and risking your dollars, buy an ’80’s El Camino (stock, or with Studebaker fibreglass kit) , or SSR, or GMC Cyclone, newer Challengers, or maybe a Warlock. – and there would be less investment risk too. If stock, you know what you’ve got.

    l’m not saying don’t put disc brakes and a dual master (reputable kits, preferably) on your stock ’55 if you plan on touring lots with it, just make sure your toy is safe and well done. l know it’s your toy and your money, but don’t find out your mods were the cause of a crash and injuries.

    And a ’55 Chevy with 4 wheel discs, huge rims/tires, air bags, fuel injected crate engine, digital instruments, rack and pinion, buckets, etc, etc, is no longer a ’55, even though it may resemble one. in an exterior picture.

    I’d enjoy seeing a little wider selection of RWL or especially OWL radial tires for 15″ rims. Nothing is out there from Goodyear? I miss the Eagle GT in something besides 215/65-15, though I am thankful for that one size.
    Or how about in a black wall- think Buick GN. BFG TA’s are ok, and I see the Coopers and Mastercrafts. Still, where’s Dunlop or even a Michelin RWL offering?

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