8 oil change dos and don’ts
It’s a small job that somehow became a rite of passage for gearheads: Oil changes. The draining and refilling of engine oil is the first task that many budding wrench-turners undertake, and its certainly an important one. Like any other task in the automotive world, there are some pieces of institutional knowledge that comprise the key dos and don’ts for a smooth oil change. So let’s put these lessons learned out in the open, with the mission of shortening the process for newbies. And perhaps to reinforce some best practices for you veteran mechanics?
Don’t go crazy with warm-up
Modern oils are pretty amazing at suspending particles and contaminants, but there is still some junk that sinks down to the bottom of the pan. It needs to be stirred up to ensure it escapes when you pull the drain plug. Starting the engine and letting it idle for a minute or two is perfect for that final circulation. Run it any longer and you’re rewarded with nothing more than scalding hot oil that does nothing more than burn you. Before you pull that (drain) plug, give the engine a minute after shutting down, allowing the oil to drain to the pan from the nooks and crannies higher in the engine. But before you get underneath the vehicle to do the deed, remember you must…
Wear disposable gloves
Nitrile gloves keep you from soaking up solvents and oils into your skin. I’ve found 7mil thick to be a nice sweet spot of durable and affordable.
We all know the guy at the auto parts counter who has seriously gnarly hands from all the years being soaked in oil over decades of engine builds. That’s the visible damage. The invisible damage is sitting in your internal organs. All the hydrocarbons that get absorbed through the skin and are processed in our gut where they can’t be broken down. They end up accumulating in our body, which can cause serious health complications after years and years of chemical exposure. Preventing those issues is easy as putting on a pair of nitrile gloves. Use them even if it’s only for pulling the filter and drain plug, which you can do efficiently with…
The drain plug trick
It’s not groundbreaking, but nothing feels better than the perfect pull on a drain plug to ensure you don’t get any oil on your hand. The trick is pressure, not pulling. As you unthread the plug by hand, push in–against the bolt as in comes out–so the threads act as a seal with the outer edge. With a little practice you can get the pressure right (while not rocking the plug in the threads) and can spin the plug a full turn to feel for the “click.” That click means the bolt overlapped the last thread. With a swift motion away from the direction of oil flow, remove that now-loose plug. Presto! This can make thin viscosity oil changes much cleaner, and thick stuff like 20-50 can sometimes be spotless. In your excitement of not having a mess to clean up after draining, make sure you…
Don’t over tighten the drain plug or filter
It’s come to the point where stuck filters and stripped drain plugs are no longer a joke. Neither the filter nor plug require any real torque when installed properly. Use a small amount of oil to lube the filter’s rubber seal, then spin it into place. After the gasket seats on the housing, turn it only about three-quarter of an additional turn. Some applications might call for a full turn, but that is usually reserved for heavy duty equipment. Any tighter than what the filter manufacturers call for and you run the risk of deforming that rubber seal, which could cause oil to leak past the seal. That’s bad news. Any oil spillage is bad, so when you are filling…
Just use a funnel
The oil fill port on most engines is in that perfect spot where it looks like you could pour directly into it, except that’s a lie. They seem to be ideally located, but cleaning up if you miss (by even the smallest margin) can be a major pain. Are we really going to work so hard to spot and address leaks, to keep our engines clean, and just ruin it while doing routine maintenance?
I’m not. A funnel all but guarantees I won’t have to do any clean up after filling, even if I’m distracted or letting my 7 year-old niece do the filling. Putting in that fresh oil feels good, but be careful and…
Don’t overfill
This shows the rotating assembly without the oil pan and it’s easy to tell how oil at too high of a level would be bad.
Too much oil is just as bad as not enough. Seriously. The oil level in a wet-sump engine is carefully calculated to keep the rotating assembly from whipping through the oil. That action causes foaming, and oil foam pushed through the oiling system is the same as not having oil at all. I don’t need to tell you how bad that can be, so check the service or owners manual for the proper fill level. When done, look at the dipstick as a double check. Luckily, the empty oil containers you now have at this point are are perfect to…
Recycle your used oil
It’s never been easier to properly recycle used oil, so there is no excuse to do otherwise. Just about any auto parts store takes it, so they should be your first trip in your freshly serviced vehicle to “return” your oil. Be sure to capture oil in a non-contaminated pan so that the oil can actually be recycled. Coolant is the main enemy here, so be sure to flush your drain pan before the oil change. Luckily you don’t have to worry about how dusty or dirty the pan is, but other fluids can defeat the purpose of recycling. But before you make the trip to recycle the oil, be sure to…
Reset the computer (or write down your service date)
Modern cars have an oil life monitoring system. Whether you trust it is a personal preference, but for the sake of eliminating confusion, go ahead and reset it now. Most reset procedures involves cycling the ignition key and pressing the throttle pedal a certain number of times. The service manual will outline it, or a quick search to an online make/model specific forum will have the instructions. If your vehicles are of the manual variety, write down the oil change date in a log book. Or consider service tracker kept in the car or garage, as it keeps you from forgetting what’s been done. Not to mention thisa paper trail shows good stewardship to a potential next owner, which can mean an easier sale for more money.
In all, oil changes can be simple and rewarding for newbies and DIY enthusiasts alike. Following these best practices will not only keep your vehicle happy, but also make the experience better for you each time. Do you have something specific you add to this process? Let us know about it in the comments below.
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All great pointers. It may seem a bit silly, but I’ve made it a habit to roll around under the car on that creeper (or piece of cardboard) while the oil drains and give everything else the onceover. I’ve found loosening fasteners, small leaks, and even a missing part by just taking advantage of a few extra minutes while I’m already under the car. Those with lifts have NO excuse for not doing this! 🙄
Not silly at all!!! Why not spend the time while the oil is draining!
Well, I meant silly in the context of it not really being a tip about changing oil, which is the topic of the article. But truly, I doubt that most of us are taking many opportunities to just inspect under our cars (perhaps the most inaccessible places). We pop the hood and look things over quite often, but it’s a pain to crawl to an undercarriage inspection. It just seemed to me that I already had an excuse to be under there, so I ought to maximize the situation…
Bring a grease gun with you and have a ball?
Great idea n U could also get Pumped up instead of having a ball.
This time you check the diffs and trans axle levels or any other levels under the car.
Check tire pressures.
Grease if you have any fittings. Replacement parts will often have fittings.
Some cars like my Pontiac had fittings on the rear too.
If you know what you are doing change your oil. If not pay someone.
But we all need to understand todays oils and engines have easily surpassed the 3000 mile oil change deal. Like many things on todays cars they are not like the cars in the past.
The key with todays cars is to get caught up beyond whst dad and grandpa taught you as a lot has changed.
This is why so many have issues on brakes today as they do not bed in pads and get a pulse. Many blame a warped rotor but un bedded pads or a bad hub bearing is the true cause.
While what you said my contribute to pulsation problems, they are more likely to be caused by improper lug nut torque. I have personally had the tires rotated 500 miles from home and they were warped before I got back. Took a torque wrench, corrected the uneven clamping forces and it cured itself in a bit.
There are some cars with really crappy rotors that this can happen but it is rare.
Ever since my ’64 Chevelle 283, I’ve changed oil at 5,000 mile intervals, and none of my cars have ever required any oil between changes.
For tire rotation, first one at 5,000 miles, and subsequent ones at 10,000 miles. That way, no pair has more than 5,000 miles more than the other pair at either end of the car.
I thought the time the oil is draining is coffee time? Lol
😁
Actually no, it’s “Miller time”.
Nope it’s nap time!
Yep – nap a few minutes under the car is what I have occasionally done. Just be sure you have good jackstands in place, in addition to the jack!
I like your thinking
100% agreed- I can’t tell you how many times I have noticed a developing issue (leaking shocks, loose exhaust bolts, stuff rubbing other stuff) that would have gone unnoticed until there was a real failure while I am waiting for the oil to drain. Since the car is up in the air already its nice to check these things out and not waste the effort of getting out the jack and stands. ALWAYS use jack stands (no ramps- PLEASE)- my father, back in his younger days used some crappy ramps and almost lost his life because of that. Stuck with me as a lesson- safety is always first- if you can’t do it safely don’t do it.
Step 1: GOOD JACK STANDS!!! I have a personal experience of a car falling on someone I knew.
Forgot: Chock the wheels to prevent rocking and slipping off the supports.
That’s a good tip!
ditto!!
You mean there are Americans males that don’t know how to change oil in a car? Really? No wonder this country is in trouble!
I agree with John
You may criticize or educate. Be a part of the problem or the solution. You decide
Ditto, I have taught many of young boys and girls.
It’s finding the students these days. As a facility director at a YMCA. Most young people would rather deal with electronics than mechanical. I’ve actually had a 19 year old who never used a hand saw.
I own several vehicles and a couple boats. On daily drivers I take a paint stick and write on the core support what size drain plug and how many quarts of oil engine takes. Saves me time searching for wrench size and oil capacity. On my 4 stroke outboard motor I write the info on the oil filter every time I change it. On nicer vehicles I write info in back of the owners manual. I now have a label maker, one day I might make labels for under the hood of nicer vehicles Couple years ago went to Napa and finally bought the biggest diameter funnel they had for my 5 gallon drain oil jugs. Helped cut down on spillage when emptying drain pan
Some of them don’t know cars have oil and it needs to be changed!
Of all the things a young man (or young woman) needs to know to have a successful life, oil changes are not high on the list. I learned at 18 (then taught my dad!), when I got my first car, just because I wanted to. I also taught my oldest daughter how to change oil on her car, because she wanted to know. I think she, Dad, and I would have succeeded fine without knowing, though.
The real problem with oil changes is that people treat this like arguments on politics and religion.
Everyone is an expert but few have the engineering degree or knowledge of how times have change.
Then you also have the Amzoil zealot that alway checks in.
Oils today are nothing like the past. Today’s synthetics are highly engineered to do so much more than past oils.
Today they lube, cool, advance cams, lube turbos and other tricks.
Same with engines as the materials used today are much better. The rings are lighter and stronger. It used to be by 80,000 miles you had to ring an engine.
Turbos are water cooled. Pistons are stronger, rods are forged etc.
Generally most cars can safely do 7,000 miles on a good synthetic oil.
Today these vehicles are not your dads or grand fathers cars unless it is a collector vehicle. And if it was rebuilt odds are it is better now too.
Oil change intervals were largely driven by 2 factors – gasoline contamination and oil temps.
Modern engines run hotter oil temps so the moisture is boiled off and fuel injection virtually eliminated gasoline wash down in the cylinders. So longer oil change intervals and computer approximation are appropriate guides. Without periodic oil analysis, it is simply a visual assessment, but most of the time that will suffice.
The one thing modern oils are NOT better for is flat tappet cams. Anyone running a classic car with flat tappet cams, especially a mechanical cam, should educate themselves on the subject.
Oh, and yes, I’m an Engineer. 😄
Amen, HyperV. And many of us with ancient (prewar) cars use full synthetic 10W/30 since they no longer contain the esters that caused such oil to occasionally leak past seals decades ago. BTW, look in a, for example, 1935-42 “MoTor Auto Repair Manual:” Nearly everyone, Auburn, Austin through Studebaker, Willys called for 30W summer, 20 winter.
All major brands’ oil equally good, according to Consumer Reports’ testing on fleet of NYC taxis for 60,000 miles. But like the Amzoil characters you cite, other fellows insist such and such a brand better by far with as much zealotry as any fan of a given city’s collection of free agent ballplayers. Hilarious.
Yes. And some of them work at Jiffy Lube.
While my son and I changed the timing chain on his Mercedes recently,, by contrast, my nephew tested from a road trip when the ‘add oil’ dash light came on on his Audi and he had no idea where to put the oil or which oil to buy. That made me very sad!
Another HUGE point was missed here! Most D-I-Y oilchanges require a floor jack to allow you to reach underneath where all the drain and filter is….SO…..do NOT forget to add floor jacks to the frame of your car! You do Not want your car to fall on you, crush you, kill you. Nuff said …
A1 comment about using floor stands under frame, just in case. I usually check to see that I have all parts necessary before I start jacking. I usually plan my oil changes to when I return from running an errand or from work.
I switched to using small ramps, way faster than jacking and using floor stands.
Good, but then we get to talk about the wheel chocks. Kind of a big deal.
Rhino-ramps are easier and safer.
I stopped using jack stands when my ‘79 TA slid off and destroyed them 40 years ago. I now use home made wood ramps made from 2X 4 or 2 X8. Much safer
I made some ramps out of 2x10s. Really safe, and really heavy!
I used to do that, Now I walk around with a beer. Lift was one of the best investments I ever made.
Amen
I always try and fill the oil filter before installing…..and make sure there’s no foil seal from the jug that might get poured into the motor.
Excellent tips. Once I’m sure the oil filter is the right part, I start with it. Fill up 3/4 with oil. By the time its ready to go in, the material has absorbed most of the oil for a mess free spin. Especially if its horizontal.
This. I have always done this. I recently saw a great video that – I think – confirms that is does produce nominally LESS wear to pre-fill the filter…
https://youtu.be/939WTeorBnQ?si=wOyFcjJSfwPr1ARZ
Great idea. I also give the rust-prone suspension and chassis parts a little blast of rustproofing spray… a little paying it forward for my future self!
I agree – this is an excellent tip. Along the same lines, I like to clean the oil pan, around the filter, and any other areas nearby like cross members, engine covers, etc. Also, if there was an engine cover that I had to take off to change the oil, I give that a quick scrub down with soap and water and then let it dry in the sun while I finish the rest of the oil change. I know – I’m a bit of a clean freak, but the NEXT time I change the oil, I will be able to tell if there are any small leaks going on.
At every oil change beside doing what you mentioned, I always get some kind of a squirt can of oil and put it on the hinges of the door and that little roller piece with the spring behind it. You’d be surprised when cars get old how hard they are to repair. And if nothing else, get some kind of a stick to hold your brake pedal down so you can check the lights. You can check all the other lights walking around the car to check the brake lights somebody has to be stepping on the brake , you’d be surprised how many cars I come up behind that either the third brake lights not working or a bulbs out on one side , it’s prevalent
I concur with the comment that one should carefully inspect the undercarriage while the oil is draining. I too have located minor issues during the undercarriage inspection that could have become major issues including issues with the CV joint boot. Also, after the oil has been changed and while I have the car safely elevated, I take time to reapply, as necessary, the lanolin undercarriage surface protectant. There are those that argue that an oil change at 3,000.00 miles is too often with today’s modern oils and filters. However, in my humble opinion, no matter the oil or filter, one should inspect the undercarriage at about 3,000.00 miles. And while conducting that inspection, one might as well take the opportunity to change the oil and filter.
What I do after changing my oil before I put my plug and filter back on I have my air compressor pumped up and use my blow nozzle to blow down through the oil cap opening to blow out any excess old oil to make sure it’s all out. 😃
how often should i change my oil every 10,000 miles like royal purple says or what.
Follow what the manufacturer of your car recommends. 10,000 miles is too long to go between oil changes-even with a high end product like Royal Purple. Even though the lubricity of the oil would last a long time, the contaminants, dirt, etc. that make their way into your oil and are not captured in the filter can only be removed from your engine with regular and frequent changes.
You totally missed the most important part! How many times does the draining oil miss the drain pan completely, and end up all over your driveway before you correct the angle, and keep correctly the position of the drain pan?
Or forget to release the air bleed cap. Had the catch pan drain clear but forgot to open the air bleed. Pan overflowed and created a spill on the driveway to rival the Exxon Valdez. Fortunately the wife was not home at the time and a quick trip to the parts store for a couple of gallons of driveway cleaner saved me from an eternal Dumbass Award.
Always good to have the cheapest bag of kitty litter around for such mishaps. Cheaper than speedy-dry, you can pick it up in the pet food isle of the supermarket, and it’s the same stuff—dry clay.
Far more important is not forgetting to put the drain plug back in (don’t ask)
Get a magnet stick n just let th oil plug fall in to avoid any messes by the cath perfect pull oops methods
Also make sure the rubber gasket from old filter is still on the old filter. (don’t ask)
Yep, I agree. Once was enough, though!
THIS IS A HUGE AND BASIC POINT. These filters often shed the O ring up in the block. When you just happily spin that new one on, the double O ring IS NOT going to seal and when you start up there’s going to be a HUGE mess.
I set the drain plug on top of the filler cap – simple reminder. And rather than replace the copper O-ring I just rotate them.
That’s why you lay a good size piece of heavy plastic under the pan. It’s easier to wipe up than the floor or driveway
And newspapers on top of the old plastic shower curtain.
I’ve been doing 10,000 mile oil changes for 25 years now using Mobil 1. All vehicles over 100,000 miles, two I kept to 175,000, never an engine issue. The two over 175,000 were both Ford 3.0 Vulcan V6’s in Taurus wagons.
@RickS, I agree with you. I follow the manufacturer’s direction. One vehicle is 5,000, the other’s are 10,000. Sometimes they get changed more frequently because of the dealer’s 3-pack of oil changes, tire rotations and multi-point inspection loss leaders. The catch is they have to be used in a year, so the six-month interval may be less miles. But it’s still a great deal, no work for me, and I’ve got documented service.
Also, like you, we’ve never had an engine issue with any vehicle we’ve ever owned. Daughter’s hand-me-down vehicle is nearly 20 years old now. People *way* overthink modern oil.
A lot depends on type of miles and engine condition as well as proper tuning. A car humming along at around 70 to 75 at under 2000 RPM on long trips is much less prone to contaminants like carbon or unburned fuel or even engine wear than one with the same amount of miles all stop and go traffic with many cold starts that can cause condensation build up. Newer cars with constant fuel air ratio adjustments will not have Gasoline dilution like an older carbureted one also. Some of my cars I change ever 3 to 5 thousand miles and fnd black dirty oil due to type of use others go 15000 and the oil is still nearly clear because of the type of miles they get. I keep that oil to reuse in oil cans or for treating wood because it is still so clean. Oil does not wear out it gets dirty and it is that dirt that causes engine damage.
I heard that the longer life oils seal better thus don’t get as dirty.
Oil and oil change arguments are like politics and religion arguments. Everyone is an expert but few are engineers or have stayed in a Holiday Inn Express.
People like to think they know oil and oil changes based on what dad and grand dad did but times have changes.
Synthetic Oils today are much more complex and advanced. They are constructed to do much more than lube. They cool, lube, advance cams, lube turbos etc.
Also todays engines are not what they used to be. There was a time by 80,000 you needed to change rings on an engine. Today we don’t change rings often till the engine is worn out. Pistons are stronger bearings are much more durable. Blocks art lined and treated to prevent wear.
Even on turbo car the Turbo is water cooled today.
What was true in the past is no longer true. You can easily follow what mfgs say or their oil life meters. It is good reliable info.
Unless you own a Hyundai with one of their bad engines with metal in it you should be fine.
Also there is the Amzoil zealots that always pop up. Good oil but no better than anything else.
Oils are made to spec. Those numbers on the cap cover what it is designed for. Like a ruler these specs make it good to meet or exceed other ratings. Learn these specs and you will better understand todays oils.
Can I get an amen? 😁👍🏻
Amen!
You found religion at a Holidy Inn Express???
…plus additives can be depleted.
A few years back, Amsoil recommended 7,500 miles.
10,000 miles Is way too long I don’t care what kind of oil you’re using. I switched to Mobile 1 about 10 years ago. I’m 70 years old and been getting paid to work on cars since I was 15. I’ve done all kinds of engine repairs and seen all kinds of different sludge but Even with synthetic oil, I try to get it somewhere between five and 6000 miles.
10,000 miles is not unreasonable if the oil is getting over 210 degrees and the driving is sustained. It’s really situational.
The Mrs has a long commute of 95% highway miles at highway speed, so her oil temps stay elevated for almost all of the miles. Her oil at 10,000 is much cleaner than the 3,000 mile oil in the 7.3 diesel.
Oil is cheap, engines are not. Never go beyond 5000 miles or every six months. Most car usage is considered’severe use’. Oil doesn’t wear out (unless severely overheated) but in little used cars, oil picks up contaminants and moisture. Stored cars can go once a year.
Perhaps surprisingly, how often also depends somewhat on your air cleaner. The air filter on my Sunbeam is a screen with a chunk of foam behind it. Not super effective. Therefore, every 3000 miles without fail. My Jag has a KN washable air filter so can go a bit longer. That’s how a lot of the dirt gets in after all.
I just watched a test of air filter efficiency that confirmed what I’ve always believed. K&N filters pass more dirt than a stock paper filter. So your oil is going to get dirty with that filter faster than with a stock paper one.
That’s funny I’ve always thought K&N filters were really good but anything with a throttlebody or Mass Air Flow sensor that has some kind of a sensor for temperature or barometric pressure or something, in the dealers we had trouble with them getting a very light coat of oil on them so we always recommended paper filters. On anything that’s not fuel injected, sure why not
Not advice. Had a 2005 C 300. Hour commute everyday. Let the synthetic go 50,000 k. ( big factor- oil was never overly contaminated). Traded in car at 428,000 k( just happened to stroll into a dealership to buy my daughter a car. Ended up with two) Saw the 300 still on the road a year later. Oil companies sell oil. Unless your in a race car,a lot of money goes out the window.
Exactly what my dad, a ’30 model, told me all my life! “Oil is cheap, son”
Oil USED TO BE Cheap, then someone told th oil companies, now oil is very expensive. $4 a quart x 10 quarts n th Gobner has his hand on my wallet, n my uncle Sam, n,,,
Oil is STILL cheap, adjusting for inflation. And, it is so much better now, yet does not cost much more (again, adjusting for inflation).
Who is “Gobner”? I’ll slap him if he comes around to take my wallet or oil! ;<)
There is no reason to change the oil any more often than the manufacturer recommends unless it is a track car.
Working in car dealers for over 30 years, the recommended oil change in the owners manual does that to promote longer maintenance with the car doesn’t mean it’s good for the engine. If you notice, you do it that way it’ll make it out of the warranty. And then you might start having problems, like everybody said oil is cheap price trying to replace an engine in a car today it’s astronomically crazy
I agree…. especially if you use Mobil 1. My Erie Ins. Co. sent the following out as old auto myths.
AUTO MYTH #4 YOU SHOULD CHANGE YOUR OIL EVERY 3,000 Miles
Decades ago, many auto experts recommended that you should change your car’s engine oil every 3,000 miles. But the technology used in manufacturing both cars and engine oil has changed a lot since then – making the old 3,000-mile recommendation an extremely conservative estimate.
These days, modern synthetic oils are designed to last up to 10,000 miles between oil changes. And most auto manufacturers recommend oil change intervals between 5,000 to 7,500 miles or more. To learn what’s best for your vehicle, be sure to check the manufacturer’s recommended oil change intervals. Following regular maintenance schedules is just one way to make your car last longer.
But there’s also the problem of how long the oil FILTER lasts. A good synthetic may last 10k miles, but I doubt the oil filter will.
If the element holds up a filter actually becomes a better filter until its completely plugged and filters out everything 🙂
And you won’t know how long the filter is doing its job because almost all engines have some kind of a filter bypass, if the oil filter gets plugged up, you’ll still have oil pressure it just won’t get filtered anymore
I stored a car for over 20 years starting it about 4 or 5 times during that time. Just changed that oil after driving it a few miles. didn’t look bad. I can assure you the engine has no sludge because I was using a special high detergent oil back then designed for mechanical injection diesels. Where and how the car is stored makes a difference.
If you have checked lately you would know that “Oil Is Not Cheap”. Cheaper than a new engine yes but Not Cheap 🙂
As Allen says, do what the maker recommends. The recommendation for the ’60s era cars that I’ve owned is every 3,000 miles and at least once a year if you don’t drive that much. The main issue is acid buildup from blowby. When I owned light aircraft, the requirement was every 100 hours of operation or once a year if you didn’t fly that much, but manufacturers recommendations were every 50 hours or every four months. Acids build up much more rapidly if you only run the engine for short periods of time.
Aircraft are a bit different. Some don’t even sport a filter at all, just a screen. And don’t forget, a large part of cooling an aircooled engine is the passage of excess fuel. And what is in 100 low lead avgas. Why of course, lead. It has been reported that avgas has 4 times the amount of tetra ethyl lead as regular leaded mogas had. Have you ever watched your A&P mechanic clean your spark plugs? If they are of the massive electrode variety, they use a small chisel on a vibrating machine to get it out. After a hundred spark plugs there is quite a little pile of the stuff under the plug cleaner. A&P IA mechanic of 35 yrs, retired.
I don’t believe in going 10k miles between oil changes, even if the oil says you can. The problem isn’t that the oil has broken down because modern synthetic oils CAN last over 10k miles without its protective properties “breaking down”. The problem is that the oil still gets dirty over mileage, and 10k miles worth of contaminants is too much in the oil. If you could realistically change your filter after 5k miles, thus allowing for the contaminants to be captured by a new filter halfway through, then perhaps you could go 10k miles between full oil changes.
Why does Toyota only recommend 10K miles for oil changes on their new vehicles? I lease mine and it seems they should still recommend every 5K miles.
If you have a turbo charged car I’d change it every 4K miles, for all others about every 5K. The manufacturer wants their service intervals as long as possible because people view it as a big pain to take the car in.
I had a 3 cylinder ecoboost Fiesta that had a 7500 oil change interval. I drove that car hard on hilly terrain. That little turbo would have cooked that oil.
I changed the oil every 3500 to 4000 miles right up to 175,000 trouble free miles until a despondent deer totaled it.
More than what the manufacturer recommends is just a waste of oil.
Quite a few years back, manufacturers started offering “free scheduled maintenance” and at the same time magically changed the recommended period to be about twice as long. This move cut the cost of the manufacturer providing the “free” service to the customer. When I bought my E60 off of another person’s lease, the first thing I did was change all of the fluids, then put the car on a preventative schedule that was a bit more conservative than the manufacturer.
You are correlating two unrelated events. Most manufacturers do not have free scheduled maintenance, yet their service intervals are the same (generally) as those that do. Engine technology has improved. So has oil technology. Service intervals are greater and life expectancies are longer.
I change oil and rotate tires every 5,000 miles +/-. With several cars, it’s hard to keep track of the last oil change. Now I just look at the odometer, if the milage is divisible by 5,000, it’s time to change. I.E. 5,102, 9,999, 15,000 etc.
I keep wondering about this—my three British cars can get as few as 600 miles in a season—and never more than a few thousand. It can seem just a waste in a few ways. Even shipping & recycling the used oil takes energy, which (energy) should be reserved for useful things. None of my cars ever receives anything other than full-synthdtic oil, which, ipso facto, is manufactured to be more slippery in its molecules, providing quicker lube at startup, and a bit less wear on the road. I believe that semi-sythetics are a waste of money, and maybe a bit of a sales scam. What consumer knows the percentages of regular and synthetic oil?
I agree with you 100% how much synthetic is really in that blend. It’s a mystery. Kind of like marvel mystery oil.
I change the oil once a year in my Chevy Blazer and use good synthetic oil (AMSOIL), I ‘ve had the vehicle 4 years and have 13 + thousand miles. I ride motorcycle in warm weather .
The trick to long engine life is keeping your oil clean. I change from 3,000 to 4,000 miles and always change the filter at the same time. All those junkyard cars in the nineties had about 90,000 miles on them. The factory/oil company change intervals of the sixties and 70’s was 8,000 miles, plenty of time to have ugly black oil coursing through your engine. Got 140,00 miles on a Chevy 307, and no ridge in the cylinder walls when at rebuild time.
If you’re doing an oil change outside on a breezy day, spread some cardboard around under the car. Once the stream of draining oil gets really thin, the wind can blow it to places you’re not expecting. Also, if your drain plug has a metal crush washer, go ahead and replace it. They’re cheap insurance against an annoying leak. And, if you have the car on jack stands, now’s a good time to give the front tires a shake looking for loose bearings, bad ball joints, etc. Check the brakes too. AND…if you car requires it, this is the time to grease stuff up. After all, the service at a garage used to be called the LOAF – lube, oil and filter.
Wow, reading the term LOAF caused brilliant flashbacks to my days working in service stations as a young man. Pump the gas, wash the windshield, check and top off the fluids under the hood, and maybe even the tire pressures id requested. Alongside LOAF jobs, I also did innumerable brake adjustments, and more than a few brake and shock replacements. Less often, but still a regular occurrence, were tune-ups (typically plugs, points, condenser). Good Times!!! 😃
I too have fond memories working in a full service gas station!
For the past 36 years I have been changing the oil once a year in my 72 cuda,which turns out to be about every 500 miles. Yeah I know,drive it more!
Yep as a kid I worked that way for GOOBER at the Sinclair way before the Andy Griffith show captured that name and character! I worked off my gas, oil change and tires costs all through high school.
You forgot to mention turning over the fan belt to check for cracks. You never know when the Gates Mystery Man might be stopping to reward you with five silver dollars. I managed to win it twice while working at a B A service station.
And get rid of that cardboard as I heard it can self-ignite like oily rags.
I use a large piece of vinyl ever since my catch pan overflowed onto the driveway. Never again!
Nice additions David! I agree with you, especially on the crush washer. Not sure how I forgot that.
Great points! Out here in west TX you can count on wind whipping the oil stream
Put as much oil in filter as it will take without spilling on installation.
This will get oil circulating faster on startup
I agree completely…I also take the extra step of pulling the coil wire and cranking the engine until I have oil pressure, before starting it. Probably over-kill, but I’ve articles on the effects on wear during those few seconds of no oil pressure.
I guess you don’t drive any modern cars. I can’t remember the last car I had with a coil wire.
I only change the oil on my 1967 Mustang…everything else gets done in a garage. To be 100% accurate I don’t actually pull a coil wire, I use the kill switch wired to my MSD box.
I asked the engine builder who rebuilt my 454 BBC (he’s also a very successful drag racer) about doing as you suggest, and he adamantly said to not do this. He said you want the engine to fire as soon as possible to immediately splash oil onto the camshaft, otherwise the cam lobes prematurely wear and flatten out from the dry cranking. Makes sense, so I stopped doing the dry cranking and get the 454 engine to fire up asap.
Pull and ground the coil wire and crank untill the oil light goes out before starting the engine. Prefilling the filter just guaranteed you will make a mess installing it inless it’s a small block chevy
many hears ago I stumbled upon a faucet-like thingy which replaced the drain plug. It was permanently installed and all you had to flip the lever and the oil was drained. No more oil on me or dropping the plug in the oil. Anyone remember these, what they were called, and where to get one again. They worked great.
Hey Rick. It was called “Sure Drain” There was a SD2 and a SD3. Made by Fram. This has been discontinued tho.
I have them on my vehicles, they’re manufactured by the Fumoto company. Very handy when it’s time for an oil change! 🙂
Just found what I was looking for. EZ oil faucet
Check Amazon.com Q10 Q10
I use Fumoto valves on all my vehicles. Super easy to drain without pulling the drain plug. Never have to worry about cross threading when reinstalling the drain plug. You can even attach a clear drain tube to prevent splashing and wind sputtering around the drips.
Not to be “devils” advocate here and I am NO mechanic, but what prevents the valve from opening if something brushes against it just right? All your oil goes out and you lose an engine.
On aircraft we had oil quick drains but there was a provision to safety wire them shut. One extra step but still a time saver in the long run. Also a good bit of peace of mind.
I saw a misspelled word on one of their advertisements and sent an email telling them so. They gave me a free valve.
Fujimoto
Exactly — except for one thing. The company’s name is Fumoto.
Immaculate oil changes, every time.
https://www.fumotousa.com
Are you thinking of this item?
https://www.fumotousa.com/
FOMOTO valve. Amazon
Fumoto google it.
They are available from a company called Fumoto. Highly recommended for vehicles with cast aluminum oil pans as my Jeep diesels are equipped with.
Even something as simple as on the oil change, I use a checklist. More than once I have seen someone forget to just add the new oil. Surprised you didn’t mention greasing the fittings. Lastly, oil can never be too clean. I have changed oil, even synthetics, every 3 to 4000 miles. I’ve never had an oil failure in any of those engines, my last 350 Chevy had nearly 300,000 miles on it and was still within 5% of the new spec for engine compression and oil pressure. Two extra oil changes a year is a small price to pay for never having to replace or do major lubrication work on an engine.
Don’t forget to reinstall the drain plug before pouring in the new oil. Ask me how I know.
First time I heard my son drop the F bomb when as a 16 year old new driver I was walking him through his first oil change. My fault that I went for a cup of coffee during the process. When I came back, he was on his 3rd or 4th quart of the fill cycle. When I jokingly asked if he put the plug in, the eyes widened and the Fudge word exploded from his mouth. Then he rushed for the garden hose and was about to rinse out the garage floor with it. The next lesson learned was to push the car out of the garage and show him how it was far better to use a squeegee and a snow shovel to get the majority of the oil in the drain pan. Then I handed him a bucket of hot soapy water and told him to start scrubbing. I have another story about me but I’ll wait till I’m asked. Quite funny actually.
I’m asking…….
“Clean Oil continually: The Franz Oil Filter slogan. Found out about this product one night in 1969. The bar next door to the service station (yes, REAL SERVICE, not snack cakes) and in pulls a dirty 1956 Chevy pickup. I always checked the oil add battery water, and the oil looked like it just came out of the can, and I said so. “No”, said the driver, “I have a Franz Oil Filter. My oil has never been dirty.” The filter element was a roll of 2-ply toilet paper which was changed at regular intervals.
Oh man – you jolted my memory! I was in the Air Force in Bavaria in the late 60’s & the base Surgeon claimed to be the exclusive distributor of those things. Every GI arriving on base got his toilet paper oil filter sales pitch. He owned a Porsche and a Jag XKE and both sported one of those TP canisters. Thanks for the memory:)
After you’re finished and have run the engine, let it sit and double check the oil level. That assures you used the correct amount of oil.
Good addition.
Every 5K or once a year is a good interval. I learned the click trick from grandpa when I was six years old! LOF on a 1943 Willys Jeep… I keep a 5 gallon water jug stuffed in a milk crate to hold the recycle oil.
I recycle it in a local marina where they have absorbent pads that work really good under the drain pan to catch those little spills that happen.
I don’t know for sure how it happened. A piece of shop rag wound up in my motor and plugged the oil pick up tube causing the motor to spin some bearings do to the low oil pressure while my inexperienced 16 year old daughter drove it shortly after I changed the oil. Either it happened when someone had the intake off (on the Car Fax) before I bought it or someone sabotaged the filter I got from the local store. Department store filters are just in a paperboard box and easily opened and re-closed…maybe with something extra put in the filter! I now only buy Ecoguard filters from my local parts store because they have a plastic seal on the filter so nothing can get into it between the filter factory and me breaking the seal.
When they first came out with plastic bottles for oil, one of the aircraft owners at our field dropped the plastic ring from the bottle cap into the filler tube. It cost him thousands to have that engine torn down and the ring removed.
In commercial large Jet aviation we still use can openers with metal cans . No plastic bottles allowed on Jet engines. You would not believe how hard it is to find old school can openers.
Agreed, also check the oil filter visually to make sure it isn’t damaged on the outside. And when placing the new filter on, do it by hand, not with any tools!
Great set of rules to follow. I have been logging my DIY oil changes since I started in the early 1970’s. I am up to a little over 400 and have only one oil filter failure on a FJ45 Landcruiser in 1976. I have been using a oil testing service (Blackstone) where I send a sample for analysis. They keep a complete history of the car/truck and can spot problems before they become a bigger issue. It runs $25/test. I change my oil at 5K intervals and they consistently suggest that the oil additives are still present and to go at leas 7.5K. I still change on the 5’s as I so enjoy the process and the chance to carefully inspect the car while I am under it.
You left out the most important thing about changing the filter is to make sure the OLD GASKET IS NOT STUCK TO THE ENGINE. Many a motor has been bricked by the failure of having two gaskets on the oil filter.
Good point. Been there. I also like to let the oil drain for a long while. I work on something else for an hour or so. This will allow the filter to drain out enough so it does not cause a huge mess if it is mounted horizontally or in an awkward position. I just can’t trust the quick lube services. One left my filler cap off and oil covered the entire engine compartment. Another cross threaded my drain plug. Never again.
On that note, beware Audi/VW 2.0T owners, lube jockeys at the quick lubes shoving the oil filler nozzle into the filler hole pushing the metal cam shield into the engine, you’ll be buying another engine, $14,000 later ask me how I know
Lesson learned? If you’re a potential buyer, pull the oil filler cap, if you can see the cam, replace cap and move along, that engine will be toast sooner or later.
I got 13,000 miles after I discovered that shield missing, I did fish out three separate pieces that were chewed up and mangled totaling probably 95% of the shield, the remaining 5% took out a cylinder. It WAS a great engine..
PS. I change my own oil, PO was a great owner, religiously taking the Q5 to the quick lubes.😳
Years ago, I changed the oil on my ’69 Camaro and when I started the engine, I had a major oil leak at the newly replaced oil filter. The old used filter had the gasket in place still and the new filter had two gaskets on it. Since then, I have always checked the new filters before installing them.
Glad I scrolled down. My double gasket lasted about 4 miles and blew all the oil out on I35. Saw the giant smoke cloud and shut it down before my 300 ZX Turbo blew up, or caught on fire.
That is a good catch. Not sure how I missed that one.
Happened to me once. Luckily the gasket (s) blew out as soon as I started the engine. No damage, but a huge clean-up dumped most of the 9 qt oil pan in the driveway. The king of accident that will never happen to you more than once. … Gary
Henry Ford stated “oil does not wear out, the wise man renders it unfit”.
Our ‘30 Ford Model A sees oil changes at 700 – 1000 miles or, once a year depending on driving. Then again it does not have an air filter.
The newer rides – I pull the the full synthetic oil at 4000-4500. Thanks for the article….. good reminders all around.
The Model As did not have an oil filter, either. Double whammy.
Came here to post this. I have done a lot of oil changes, but not many recently. I know this needs to be checked, and didn’t l just last week. It’s something I will never forget again. It’s surprising how quickly dollars of oil pump out with two gaskets!
Anyone else having issues recycling their oil? Gas stations are no longer taking it. The auto parts store is a hit or miss affair. Their tank is often full, l think because of the first condition.
Check if your city has a dept. that will take used oil. Mine does, and its really convenient because they don’t mind if you just leave it by the door when they’re closed. They take the old filters and anti-freeze too.
Most auto service centers will take used oil.
Most Walmarts take used oil.
I agree with this comment. I cannot find anyone to take waste oil. They don’t want it at service stations, auto parts places also refuse. (I live in Vermont.) The standard response to a request is, “You need to be able to certify that it is free of anti-freeze.” Well, I know it is free of antifreeze, but how can I ever prove it without wast oil analysis?
Check this alternative drain plug: ValvoMax Oil Drain Valve
And make sure your drain pan is big enough. Words can’t describe the excitement of watching 10+ quarts of hot oil rush out of the oil tank of an air-cooled 911 into a 6 quart container. Don’t ask me how I know this.
An additional thought on DIY oil changes on an earlier 911. Once one has drained both the dry-sump tank and the case and partially refilled the system, pull the coil wire and spin the motor a few times to bring up the oil pressure. Replace the coil wire and start the engine. When warm, use the dipstick to check the tank volume. DO NOT LET THE DIPSTICK POP OUT OF YOUR SLIPPERY FINGERS AND FALL INTO THE TANK! To quote many other readers, “Don’t ask me how I know this.” I suspect that I’m not the first one to do this. Fortunately, I had a spare dipstick, but the original is still down in there, and thus far hasn’t prevented the oil gauge sender from working. Some day I will pull the tank and get that damned dipstick out!
The Corvair shown in the first two pictures would benefit by filling the oil filter with fresh oil before installation to minimize the time on start up that the car is running without oil pressure. The oil filter is positioned vertically in most Corvairs that aren’t air conditioned.
here’s my two cents worth. a mechanic all my life, I’ve learned at 5000 miles their are black chunks of dirt crud under the valve covers. I change mine every 2000. the process of combustion makes dirt. you can pull the pistons and the rings will be stuck with plain old dirt, pull the rings clean out the holes behind them put it all back together and it quits using oil. the oil change interval is long because on the window sticker it says (annual maintenance cost) the marketing people think you will buy the car with the lowest maintenance cost. that’s why the 10,000 mile oil change. and they hope you’ll buy a new car every two years.
That’s what I do at every oil change fill a verticle filter with oil before installing it and using s felt pen write the date & kilomiters on the side.