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4 Things Silently Killing Your Vintage Car
You click the ignition key one detent to the right. A quick twitch of the right foot to tickle the accelerator pump and set the choke. Another touch on the key and . . .
Nothing.
What should be a crescendo of eight trumpets playing the V-8 version of taps and stirring the car person’s soul awake is instead the painful silence punctuated by the soft click of the ignition cylinder returning to the off position. Wake up, it’s just a nightmare.
At least, for now it is. It could happen to you, though. Nature is a cruel mistress who is conspiring against us and our cars and doing so both vigorously and silently. Here are four main offenders to keep your eye on, since your ears aren’t going to help.
The Garage Fridge
Current moving around inside an electric motor—like the compressor of a refrigerator—produces ozone, and that combined with sunlight can age tires and other rubber parts very rapidly. Replacing dry-rotted but otherwise fine parts gets expensive and annoying very quickly. If you are like me and aren’t ready to give up the fridge or freezer, focus on keeping sunlight away from your vintage ride.
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Corrosion
Deep inside your car, there is a war being waged between materials and nature. Hate to break it to you, but nature always wins. That means rust and other types of corrosion are leaching into the metals and connections that not only shape your car but also make it functional and easily serviceable. For every joke about “hearing a car rust” there are five cars that rusted away before the owner even noticed.
Being Parked
Sitting is the last thing cars were designed to do. All of the silent killers, and a few of the noisy ones, attack when the car is laying dormant. These things gain ground while the car is waiting, only for us to claw back some ground with our occasional drives. Oil coatings slip off and leave dry-start conditions inside an engine that could drive an owner to doing the extra work of priming an engine just to go driving. That’s only for those who are both aware and care enough to take that action. For many, ignorance is bliss when turning the ignition key and hearing the rumble through the exhaust pipes.
Friction
Fine, I’ll concede this one is not always silent, but with or without noise, excess friction is making your vintage car smaller with every drive. I’m not even talking about the intentional friction from brake or clutch lining, but instead about the metal-to-metal contact that was never designed to be that way. Grease and oil are subject to gravity just like us, so keeping oil and grease in the right spot is a never-ending task as they silently slide and ooze past seals and gaskets. One small drop on the garage floor might not seem like a big deal but over time can mean lots of very worn-out parts that seemingly happened out of nowhere.
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Aiding and abetting these (and sometimes superseding them) is: Apathy.
🚩Succinctly true or laziness. Once a month run till hot will help.
Actually they need to be run under load.
They should be driven to turn over all the bearings so they pickup lubrication!!
Hi.. I live in NJ and they love to over salt the roads.. I have a 95 911, can I drive back and forth in the driveway.. it’s about 250 ft long.. would that make a difference.. (instead of just starting it and letting it idle)
It would make a small difference. You need about 30minutes a month unless you’ve got a bugatti or some such that is painstakingly taken care of in a humidity/temp controlled environment, up on stands, etc.
Ship the car to California and I will drive them all for you guys. I hate to see your cars go bad from sitting.
I have a rusty 1973 Lada that’s been sitting for a few years and could use some exercise. You’ll be popular with ladies over the age of 80 who love it! What’s your address and I’ll ship it to you asap.
Roger that Bill.
When you’re busy, Bill, I’ll help you out with those duties.
I’m an aircraft owner and one of the worst things to do with an AC engine is to idle it for a few minutes. I think the same logic would hold true for car engines. Idling does not bring engine temps up high enough to evaporate moisture that accumulates in the engine which in turn creates internal rust conditions. AC engine manufacturers advise owners to fly their planes at least every 10 to 14 days for at least an hour. They also recommend changing the oil every 4 months max to get the corrosive chemicals out of the engine. I think these recommendations can probably keep your classic ride in good shape.
Yes…that will help! But not as good as a quality ride!
Gotta’ agree!
Bought my father’s Corvette that was stored in Erie PA 10 months out of the year for 15 yrs and driven once in the summer. It’s home in South Carolina where they belong on the road every weekend and in car shows. Move your vintage cars south!
no salt in your driveway?low RPM is better then idle.
Drive up and down till tamp comes up two times a month.
Lucas oil stablelizer with oil change, 87 Camaro Z28 325000 NO SMOKE.
No smoke has nothing to do with crank and camshaft bearing wear, which is what most are discussing
When I was teenager, every week a local college professor would meticulously check the oil, tire pressure, and other essentials on his collection of classic cars: a Morgan, a Jaguar XK-140, a Rolls-Royce, and a MG- TD. All of these vehicles were from the 1950s and 1960s. After ensuring everything was in order, he would drive them to a nearby strip mall, where he would perform gentle figure eights, back up a short distance, and then drive back home.
Yep!
Agreed, but it won’t get lubrication to all points that need it without actually driving. I take mine out at least twice a year and run then around the cul de sacs in my quiet neighbor hood, I do try to run them back and forth every time I start em up, Helps a little, but not like driving.
I agree but suggest more frequent driving. I run my errands every Saturday in my 1968 FIrebird & it continues to operate trouble free.
Don’t let your car sit!
Agreed! I run my ’54 Willys M38A1 at least every 2 weeks and make the wifey ride around town with me.
Taking your car out for a drive once every week for 30 minutes is the most important thing you can do. Unless the roads are covered with salt! Then just open the garage door and run the engine!!
But it’s cold outside – do we really need to open the garage doors?
Have you ever heard of carbon monoxide??
I say, I say, that was a joke, son….
Love it! Love it!!
Boy, I say boy.
Ah he….he….
Hook an exhaust hose around the tail pipe and under the garage door to the outside.
Don’t squish the the hose.
Not if you live in south Florida.
Yes, unless you can run a metallic hose from tail pipe to the outside air . The carbon dioxide from a running engine will kill you in enclosed garage !!
Sorry I meant CARBON MONOXIDE!! Big difference
Unless you hate your life it’s suggested
This is exactly what I do with my 77 vette, maybe every other weekend in the winter months but at the very least she gets started every week. Sitting is the absolute worst thing for a classic car. After all why would you buy one just to let it sit there??
I drive my ‘65 Corvair Corsa weekly, weather permitting. Last weekend was so nice I even had the top down. Usually get 50-60 miles a week on it.
Buy any Armstrong lever shocks lately?
My Lords, Ladies and all y’all.
My ‘73 MGB/GT is resuscitated, not restored. It’s my daily driver. We keep each other going.
Cheers
Many of the classic car insurance companies say “If it’s a daily driver, if you go to the grocery store, it’s not covered. OMG!
That’s it sir!
Take good care of each other and you will live a wonderful life without one boring mile
Love the MG GT class automobile
Drive them, I’ve a 68 Z and I average 15,000 a year since restoration 3years ago
Everyone who sees it , tells me how much they enjoy seeing it being out on the streets
Still req a Cloyes timing gear to replace the nylon toothed gear. Was left with a sewing machine noise one Christmas eve at a rest stop on the Mass Pike.
Starting a car is the worst thing you can do to an engine. Cold starts incur the most damage and wear to an engine’s internal parts and can create significant condensation in the exhaust during cool down. I never start my cars unless I am going to drive them for an extended period to insure they completely warm up and dispel all condensation. Typically that means they do not get started for 6 month periods through the cold Winter months. Been doing this on more than one car for over 25 years and they are still in perfect condition.
This is sound advice. I’ve seen engines ruined by owners thinking they are doing the engine good by starting and letting it run without moving it for 30 minutes.
Low idle sitting is not good crank 1min.later drive at lower RPM’s until temp is in normal then stomp on it.
..uhhm then why have a classic car at all if you never start it. It’s not a huge paper weight. Just saying..
Maybe the two feet of snow in my 300 ft long driveway has something to do with it.
Mark–I am with you –I own a 1981 380 SL Mercedes Convertible–It has not been driven in the winter for over 30 years–I live in MN and it is still in great condition–I just disconnect the battery and gets stored inside my heated garage.
Disconnecting the battery probably isn’t the best thing to do…just buy a float charger/(Battery Tender) and use the quick disconnect in case you forget to disconnect when you back out of the garage. Trickle chargers are verboten!
I’ve been leaving batteries disconnected for 7 month intervals in several cars, trucks and boats in cold storage over the winter for decades. Never had a problem.
Same here. Four Corvettes. 40 years. Change oil, fill tank, add Sta-Bil, overinflate tires, disconnect battery, Irish Spring all over the place, say Goodnight Gracie.
What’s with the Irish Spring soap ? Keep mice away ?
So “they” say. No proof but I have been doing the ritual over 40 years with no rodential issues. Can’t stop now, plus the car smells great.
I’ve done that once, also forgot to remove the tailpipe covers, heard them come off.
Mark, your comment is excellent and I concur with great respect ! I have followed your view/rule for 50 years and it works. After long term storage, turn the engine over by hand ( crank ) or, remove the coil connection, connect the battery, turn the engine on the starter until the oil pressure gauge moves.
If the spark plugs are removed ( easily ), a few squirts of oil will help with the above process. Stay well and be safe.
Yes, I use 20 weight ATF for this purpose.
I was told by a very reputable engine builder and champion drag racer (‘72 Vega big block) that doing what you suggest will flatten the cam lobes fast. The cam needs oil splashed onto it almost immediately by having the engine fire as soon as possible. Interesting, all the different opinions here! Who knows who is correct and who is not?
I think the ultimate answer here is… drive the car. There will be no perfect way to protect the engine (or any other components – heck, no one even uttered the word “gasoline” in this thread) from damage due to neglect, save an overhaul. I’d rather not do one of those every year.
When I do the end of summer oil change on my boat (Chevy V-6), I fill the crankcase 1/2 quart shy of the full mark. Just before hitting the starter in the spring, I put in the final half quart. This ensures that my camshaft if fully lubricated at startup.
Store it with clean oil.
Before you start it up, drain a couple quarts or the entire sump, and add fresh oil. It will run down over the cam and lifters.
Really good oil is what, $100 worth?
That’s what I do. Oil is cheap comparatively speaking.
As long as it’s full synthetic it will stay on metal parts for months … Royal Purple my favorite.
I have a 1982 Chevrolet Caprice Classic 2-Door. Only 11999 mfg in 1982. Became the rarest Chevrolet…in 1982. I live in Michigan and when I put it down in Nov/Dec (depending when it snows) the only thing I do is disconnect the positive side of the battery and put a can of dry gas in the tank, Cover in up and uncover it in March/April. Never start it during the time between. When I take it out in Mar/Apr it starts fine without needing a jump. Been that way for 43 years. I agree with Mark 100%
Don’t F1 cars and other heat- and lubrication-sensitive engines use oil preheaters along with an outboard oil pump to warm and circulate oil just as the engines own oil pump would if running? That would get nice warm lubricant to many of the lubrication points.
Outboard oil heater/pump might be tough to install on an engine with cast-in/machined internal oil galleries. But if there were external high pressure side lines (to oil coolers, turbos, different points on the engine), install could be relatively simple.
I will aasume an F1 power unit is built to tolerances that would make our cars also cost a million dollars.
Finally, an accurate answer. Thank you for restoring my faith. Most replies I see on here are keyboard experts. Not many real ones left.
I try for every two weeks unless there is salt on the roads/air.
You need to add “Health”. I’m 73 and suffer from stage 4 kidney disease and I have to watch my ’67 Monza slowly deteriorate.
I’m 78, and I understand your problem. I wish I didn’t, but I can’t deny when my own deterioration outpaces my classic. The 67 Honda Black Bomber in my garage just stares at me and makes me feel guilty. Is it time?
Maybe time to let someone else enjoy that classic, I would surely take a look !
It may very well be the right time for you! I’m about to turn 76 in December. I sold my ’84 512 BBi this year. The absolute car love of my life! I brought her out of storage last year and only did very limited driving. The larger rubber on the front end, thanks to my wishes many years ago, and the lack of power steering especially at low speeds, killed both of my shoulders. The dump-truck-like clutch also killed my left hip. I needed to get cortisone shots in all of those joints to recover!
I had so many great years with the Boxer, since my purchase in 1987. Those included regular drives here in VT as well as FCA track events at Lime Rock Park, Summit Point, Watkins Glen x2, Mosport, Road America and lastly at Daytona in 2017. I feel very fortunate to have been able to do all of that and I very thoroughly enjoyed the Boxer through all my years of ownership! It was just time to let her go to another driver, whom I hope will enjoy that car as much as I did.
As Paul Harvey usta say, “the rest of the story” is that I bought a ’91 Lancia Delta HP Integrale on BaT this Spring that I really love. All wheel drive with a 2L turbo 16 v engine and a 5-speed in Monza Red. This lil Hot Hatch gets all the love like the Boxer got wherever I go and it’s sooo much easier to drive!
I encourage you to look around on BaT and you just may find something to fit your driving dreams!!!
Bravo!! Lancia!!👍👍
Was that the one from out of Vancouver? I imported all kinds of cars from Japan and did a couple Lancia Delta HPI’s
Am 80 and still buying older cars. The difference is that I look for cars that are 99% done. As much as I’d like to rebuild a favorite car, it won’t be finished before I’m on the wrong side of the grass. Nothing expensive, but stuff I loved and want an opportunity to enjoy. It keeps me smiling. Odd to me, I’ve purchased collector cars twice sold by 70 year olds Cars they obviously loved, and were sad to see them go. Am letting my estate figure out how to dispose of my few cars. I’ll be driving to my funeral.
You are my kind of guy, sort of. I just turned 80 and I am still building cars. My current project is a 1957 Ford Del Rio. A total rust bucket that I had to rebuild from the ground up. It will be at least another year before it is finished, or maybe never if I die first. But it gives me something to think about each day and allows me to pretend that I still have something to contribute.
iam 87 still take my 76 vette out every week
I just turne 79 and I have three projects A 97 Boxster minor project and two completes. 1950 Ford Shoebox and a 75 Dart Swinger, plus my brother in laws 1990 Fford F100 stepside. I am trying to make thes my last ones as I will be doing all mechanical, bodt ,and custom upholstery myself. I am hoping to get the Mopar on the rotisserie by spring and complete tje Ford by the.Health and time can take a back seat. Working on our cars keeps cuttig the grass and not pushing it up. Big boy toys forever.
I like your cars. I’m 63 and my first car was a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger I absolutely loved it. Many great memories, would love to have another. They are starting to get pricey. Enjoy
I’m 77 and during the covid outbreak I got the bug to restore cars. The first was ’31 model A deluxe roadster, then sold it, and acquired three cars, a 41 ford hot rod, a 65 dart gt, and a 64 el camino, all hot rods. I work on them every day without a lift, did the painting and upholstery and am finally seeing the finishing stage. It’s just like a full time job! BTW, for those worried about rodents, this product works great…I have one my shop and it keeps them out. .https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J1VJPUA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lon, you are 100% correct. KEEP DRIVING ‘TILL YOU DROP. Age is just a number…keep yourself in good condition (just like you keep your cars) and you will enjoy this hobby for as long as the Good Lord allows.
I loved my 512BBi! Most fun I ever had even with my clothes off! Old age sucks! Try amniotic injections instead or cortisone, made my hips brand new again!!!
At 71, I’ve been a car guy since my first at 18, a ’65 GTO. I believe I just bought my last on BaT, a low mileage ’07 Z06. Of course all my toys were my LAST.
Being a Lancia guy, I own an ‘60 Appia Berlina & a Appia Convertible. I drive the Berlina once a month. The convertible is under restoration.
I really really would love a Delta but cant in California, at least can’t register it.
I departed from that toxic state in 1984.
I, too, am 78 with 3 fused vertebrae, so am not as flexible as I used to be. I can still get into and out of my 50k mile 74 450SL–barely. I figure when I need help getting in & out of the car, it’s time to sell, but not before.
77 and still driving my Z8 regularly.
I too am 77 and still driving my Z3 regularly. Very much do like the car but oh if it only could be a Z8. Good for you.
I am 77 and I have it in my will to be buried in my 1998 Z3M. Sadly, my hips won’t allow me to ride my Triumph Scrambler Steve McQueen edition and that just sits under a cover.
I am 94, I have a 1934 MGa which I can get in and out, a D a 1990 merc 500 sec, lo elyse car, everyday, a Range rover L322. Still hanging g on.
Sorry MG na magnette
Bravo! This thread is amazing! I just bought my brother’s 67 Mustang coupe and love it. I’m 64. You all are amazing gentlemen!
82 here and a 68 Corvette keeps me occupied.
Just bought a V-Rod which might have been a mistake. We’ll see when the snow melts.
Buy a Helite vest and enjoy the ride! I’m 70, and ride a 1979 XS1100 Yamaha. Not now, as it’s snow season and salt on the roads, but when I can. It keeps me young!
Helite vest Is a great idea!
Guess I’ll join this senior gearhead thread –
Just 75 here and got my phantom ’34 woodie wagon registered/insured last fall. Custom traditional body, except for the steel roof ~ riding on ’84 corvette running gear – some modified. Powered with souped up sbc 383+.0060 over, msd 6A, megasquirt2 into ’62 (?) Hilborn intake ~ Hookers and electric dumps ~~~~
Lovin’ it. I drive it in good weather
Thanks for all the cold start info here.
Currently building old school ’31 highboy roadster ~ with old school 350vdc LiFePo batt. power + dual Warp9s through GV overdrive – with ’94 ‘vette underneath ….
Mostly wired – hopefully running around this summer.
Awesome. I too have a 74 450 sl. And honestly, just two days ago took her out, upon getting in I realized it seems awfully tight to get in these days. I usually wind up with a leg cramp or a tweak in my back. lol. But once inside. Oh boy. It fixes everything. Steve
I have a reconstructed spine with rods, screws, plates, etc. Drive my 68 Cougar 2 or 3 times a week and take long road trips. If I couldn’t, I’d have to sell it. Couldn’t bear to watch it rot.
I am 82 with titanium rods and bolts in my lower back plus permanent a-fib and heart failure. I’ve also had two strokes. When I struggle into my Porsche 356B Cabriolet and turn the ignition switch, all the pain disappears, clarity of mind returns, I can catch my breath and my wife and I are 24 again. I told my wife that when I die to skip the funeral home, I’m worth a lot at the salvage yard.
A new perspective on parting out:-)
I just turned 74 with one shoulder replaced and the other one needing to be. I still drive my 65 Mustang K Code 4 speed fastback weekly. I have had the car since 1968. It is a bit difficult to shift, but I will keep at until I cannot. Something about the rumble still makes me smile.
Same here, love driving my trans am but with sciatica in my left leg the clutch is getting a bit tough in stop and go traffic!
This reminds me of the old Monty Python skit where there’s some old guys sitting on chairs talking about how tough it is. Mostly they were talking about their childhood and of course each one has to outdo the other guy so it gets down to base level one guy says they had to live in a paper bag in the middle of the road and get run over by cars every day. The next guy says that’s nothing, my dad used to get up in the morning chop us up into little pieces and throw us in the frying pan. And then the next day he would do the same thing to us. It was really tough you know.
I had an Ivy green over Ivy gold ‘65 k code coupe. Bought new in December ‘64. Lots of fond memories.
Hi Dennis, I am now 71, I have had five vertebrae and disk replaced and fusion done, but it has not stopped me from working on my cars, you just find other ways to do things. I have a 1974 super beetle I rebuilt , also painted it myself, also did a 1972 mg midget, took me longer because some days I had to rest before I started again, but there done and I love driving them around town, and the comments I get made all the extra pain worthwhile. You can’t stop doing what you love doing. John, keep going
Just time to get a different vehicle, not to quit driving…
I have a yellow 64 thunderbird that I just rejuvenated. So nice to have her back after 59 plus years.
It’s never too late!
A 64 Bird is the most beautiful car Ford Motor Co. ever built, in my opinion, I hope that it is Thunderbird Blue !!!!!
I hate to say it but u should let it go and have someone else enjoy the car. Your memories will never be taken from u I’m 70 have a 64 rivi. Know the feeling I have a T.O.D. The car will go to my son’s when I pass, un molested
I’m 70 and still put 3000 miles a year on my 49 Chevy 3100 pick up. It’s all original except paint and 12 volts and new vinyl on bench seat . Runs great but original suspension does make it hard on these old bones.
Man there’s allot of “Old Coots” here, glad I’m not the only one ! LOL
I have a 71 Rivi ,,which I’m redoing the interior on,,for the SECOND TIME, thanks to these damn mice and squirrels here on the mountain of VT and I’m Really glad I was insured by Hagerty ! It’s now > half redone,,,yet again !
I can relate to having to let something go as I finally let my 72 Karmin Ghia go down the road to someone else that will have the time to do it up right. And man was that ever hard after hanging on to it for almost 40 years, but old bones and years of bodily abuse and injuries finally made me realize it wasn’t going to happen.
But I guess eventually we all have to make these decisions ? No worries on my others though, my kids and Grand kids will have to fight over the Rivi and my 83 C-10 step side low rider and my multiple motorcycles, ATV’s and other toys.
With 4 kids , 15 Grand kids and 5 Great Grand kids,,,it will likely be a ” Battle Royal !!! I just hope they figure it out and get to enjoy all of them though, who ever gets what .
I am 72 and have owned a 64 Vette for 47 years. I’ve always said when I look silly getting in and out of it I need to sell it. Well it’s getting close. My wife has had both knees replaced and she struggles with it. I’m starting to have a harder time also. I don’t want it sitting in the garage and falling apart but dang I sure hate to sell it. I have two daughters who aren’t interested in it so I know what I need to do. If you love it let it go to someone else who can enjoy it.
Difficult for sure, but well said !
I could complain about all my aches and pains but when I squeeze into my 68 Camaro and fire it up all is forgotten that is until I pry my 6-2 250 pounds out of it lol did put seat extensions on it better now getting in it isn’t like when I was 18
It’s time. If you can’t ride it or drive it just sell it and enjoy the time left on this plane.
79, and still restoring, but my health could be a lot worse; you have my empathy. Like most old fossils, I have some congestive heart issues, stage 3-5 prostate cancer (big biopsy at VA in Jan. — ooh!) and general tired/soreness. Finishing Dad’s old ’51 Chevy 2-dr ‘restomod’ for my son, and getting a ’61 Tempest coupe with Buick OE 215 alloy V-8 ready to paint now. Yep, my ’71 240Z is not getting better only being driven 3-4 times a year now; after full resto I’m now chicken to endanger it’s value, as it constitutes a large part of our nest egg! Must probably put on market soon — and it’s under 500 mi. on ground-up build; never driven through a puddle! (Wait; was that a pun, back there? Don’t throw rotten eggs…!)
Lucky I’m still mobile and thinking (at times) so I’ll do it until I don’t. Good luck, man!
Hi James
Good to hear your still restoring at your age
I am a big fan of the 240 Z’s ! Sold my 70 Z
last year and am having sellers remorse.
I would be interested in learning more about yours if you are looking to sell it any time soon . Call me if you want to start a dialogue
813-293-2392
Thanks and god speed
Wick…. your comment caught my eye as I hope to still be able to work on my cars another six years down the road as I just turned 73 a couple months ago. Presently still working (flying corporate aircraft) and trying to keep a couple paces ahead of being an “old guy.” Owned and drove daily, a ‘76 280Z 2+2 from 1980 to 2003 but finally had to give it up as rust began taking its toll on the unibody frame rails. I had completed a ground up resto on a ’65 Mustang a few years earlier and just didn’t want to get “that deep” into car repair again…. but would love to have my 280 back though. I think the ’76Z was one of she best versions Datsun/Nissan produced in the 1970s. I have a ’93 Mustang 5.0 GT 5-spd convertible that doesn’t get much attention/love as I’ve probably put 50 miles on it in the past ten years.
“Don’t let the ‘old man’ in”
Tim, your quote of Clint Eastwood is the way I live my life. I am 76 years old and do 100 pushups daily, lift weights and EAT HEALTHY. “A body in motion stays in motion.”
I’m 77 and still fiddling with my 79 VW triple white super beetle. I brought her back to life a couple of years ago, and except for an unobtanium start injector, she’s running pretty good for a gal that almost as old as my marriage.
You don’t stop doing stuff because you’re getting old, you get old because you stop doing stuff.
Right on, keep moving!
I agree with you on why many get older sooner than their time. I’m 77, played softball with 20s and 30s year olds til a few years ago. Still could. I have a ’71 Cutlass S. I bought it new and its never been in an accident. I had it stored in my garage for a couple of decades and finally decided to get it going again. Certainly fun to drive as it is a sharp car, Viking blue with white vinyl top and white bucket seats. Really get some looks and comments when driving it. However, I am mixed about selling or keeping it. I miss the conveniences like back up camera, etc. and driving it every week or so is sort of a hassle. I live in southern Colo so not really a problem in winter most of the time. Two plus 70 days this past week. I guess I’m too practical.
Yes sir, he is correct
I love your comment, I’m going to use it Moving Forward… “Don’t let the old man in… I am 57 and still very active. That’s what I think about every day… Not letting the old man in.
A great quote!
I’ve owned a 56 T-Bird for 16 yrs that I purchased in San Francisco and live in Saskatchewan. The vehicle is completely restored so I have a substantial investment in it.
I manage to attend a dozen car shows in the area, win awards and put about 2K miles / year on it in our limited season.
I’m 76 and none of my five children have any interest in it. Not knowing where the market may be in 10 yrs, I’ve had thoughts of perhaps selling before I loose much of my investment. But a good friend of mine said, it’s worth doesn’t matter. If you are enjoying it and the hobby, keeping it until you can no longer push the clutch in!
BRAVO Timothy
I’m curious about the flying. There are different age and medical rules for flying corporate jets?
James, I’m 66 and restoring a ’72 Porsche race car, but I also restore those of us who have cancer. Google “targeted osmotic lysis”.
Had a 62, and a Greenbriar Van. A Monza was always on my radar, but other cars had priority. 70 Opel GT & 69 AMX $$$ pit.
I’m still able to work on them. 80 & thankfully still healthy. Considering selling or donating ?
Hi Ken, I had a 70 Opel GT for 42 years. Such a reliable and fun car!
I have an Evening Orchid 65 Monza for sale. It’s in Classic Cars.
Found your Corvair. Beautiful!!
Hi
Interested in your Monza
Love the color and the name of the color!
‘65 Impala SS396 , 425 hp 4-speed in Evening Orchid is my dream car.
I got my 1960 MGA in 1970. I am fortunate to have Boys with maturity and a sense of humor. They will divide up what’s left after I’m no more. The car now sits, is driven regularly and is started every week. My biggest problem is rodents that chew apart the moving blankets under which is the car. I realize that I have gotten off easy. So far.
I’ve used a bait station in the garage where my 300H convertible is kept and have had excellent results. Just make sure to inspect the bait every time you are at the garage to keep it loaded. TOMCAT RAT KILLER II is the brand I’ve used. Good luck.
Rat Killer is bad stuff. If you have small children or pets beware. The new poisons don’t have antidotes yet. I use live bait traps then I can let my Beagle chase them after I catch them and release.
Using poison for ‘Rat control’ may not be such a good idea. They eat the stuff and then go somewhere in a tight space and die………and then start to stink. Use traps with peanut butter on them and check them often.
yes, place traps near a corner or wall. cheese or peanut butter works every time!
My advice get rid of moving blankets beside rodents it will hold moisture. Get real car cover. I just use clear plastic. I’ve seen blankets pickup moisture and it wrecked the paint.
MGA 1960, since 1971. The only
thing I’ve had longer is my wife.
Plastic blocks air circulation and out-gasses that hard-to-remove “film”/fog that gets on the insides of car windows. Plastic sheeting does the same out-gassing onto the paint of your classic. A fabric cover that is waterproof and breathable is best.
Plastic sheet is the worst thing to cover a car with. Back in 1977 I was offered a ’67 Mustang V8 Coupe for R5k (South African Rand) but as I wasn’t interested at that time I deferred. A couple of years later the owner contacted me and said I could now have it for R2k as he just wanted to get rid of it as it was now standing outside. When I got there I saw it was covered with a black plastic sheet and when it was uncovered the orange paintwork looked like marble. I bought the car as I owned an auto detailing company at the time and figured I might be able to clean it up a little. I was quoted R3k for a re paint, however, my 7 year old son started scraping at the paint with his finger nail and the water mark disappeared! I went to the local store, bought some 1500 grit sand paper and gave the car a one day make over before taking it to my local panel beater for a polish, and it came back better than new.
After my issues with the mice and squirrels destroying the interior on my 71 Rivi over the Winter of 23-24, I now have all my cars and other toys housed inside of ” Car Capsules” along with having peppermint and wintergreen oil repellents and mouse & rat traps being kept inside and checked daily.
So Far So Good , with no further damage on the half that has already been redone !
The critters here on my mountain must be “Mighty Mouses ” off spring, there about the most tenacious darn things I’ve ever seen and have defeated everything I tried, they even made a nest in a partial box of Bounty dryer sheets I’d left in the Rivi !
I guess the blows that theory out of the water, Bounty obviously does not work , at least here it doesn’t !
Lots of that stuff doesn’t work. My wife put a peppermint oil thingie in our gas grill. The mice built a nest around it!
Had a 65 Rivi , my first car. Put it in a friends barn for winter, NE Ohio..Came back in spring ,saw a mouse in my car. I caught 17 mice using mouse traps with peanut butter. Wish I still had that car.
The larger size disposable rodent glue traps are the reliable way to go
Try surrounding the car with moth balls and slivers of Irish Spring soap
I used Irish Spring one year, and it worked great. Used it again the following year and in the Spring it was heavily chewed – and surrounded by ‘black rice’. I went back to lots of cheap dryer sheets and s/s chore boys in the tail-pipe and intake duct
Ever try a strobe light for rodent control?
Same thing here. At work we put Irish Spring bars under the hood of our trucks, drill rig etc and found them chewed up later. “Irish Spring – manly yes, but mice like it too”.
So sorry to hear that.
I’m 83 and my Jaguar xk8 only gets out once a week and has a trickle charge on it. Having new coil packs installed, just couldn’t do them on my own anymore. well drive it as long as I am able.
i have a 2005 jaguar xk with 130000 miles and drive it every week or so.89 years old and dread the thought having to let it go
DO NOT use a trickle charger unless you really mean a float charger. A trickle charger maintains a given voltage if not current charge and will eventually boil off the electrolyte…and newer batteries don’t have the ability to add distilled water. I use Battery Tender….it’s a float charger that brings the battery up to a certain voltage and then shuts off until the battery self-discharges below a certain voltage and the cycle starts all over again. I once revived/restored a 7 y/o OEM battery on my 03 M3 that the load tester indicated was weak, close to ‘replace’. It took about 6 months (I drove the car in the meantime anyway) on the float charger every time I wasn’t driving it before the load tester indicated it was good. That battery lasted over 12 years.
age 79-arthritis prevents some wrenching, but do what i can. still riding the kawasaki! glad to know you still enjoy the hobby.
I’m 79 and I’ve decided that it’s time to see more of the world during the next 10 years instead of the 72 Dino, the 69 Vette (original owner), the CL 55 AMG, the Fury Chopper, and too many other sentimental toys in my garage and storage warehouse. They are all prepped and “on the market.” (Thank g-d I sold the boat.) Get out and see the world is my battle cry now till I die!
I understand that priorities change over time. My old VW isn’t my only passion, but it’s still a helluva lotta fun. Too many old cars can become a responsibility instead of a hobby.
Got that. I sold my 07 Z06 MT and still kind of regret it…it was a money pit after head work (LS7 rocker arm and valve issues) and oil cooler lines but it was a hoot! I bought a 2024 3LZ C8 convertible and except for the AT it’s ok. It’s serviced annually rather than on mileage but I intend to drive it a lot more this summer!
Sorry to hear that. Do you have family to help you sell it, or can you donate it to a charity?
Do you have a younger person you know who loves cars and cannot buy a classic that would love to take you for a drive in yours? Younger does not have to mean 21, it can mean 51.
Sadly, maybe we age and deteriate with our beloved cars and dogs! Both cars and dogs should last as long as we do. I tell my dogs many times daily, I love you more than anybody in the world. A returning wag confirms their answers, but the car just sits there wanting to be loved. How did I make this, a Valentines Day story???
Truth be told
Thanks for making me laugh
Yes, sadly Apathy. I invent reasons to drive my car on the weekends. I do all my errand driving on weekends, drive to meet friends at the local burger shack or pub, or simply take my dog for a drive. Keeping your shiny polished car locked in a garage is heresy. Trailer queens are for those people who have more money than brains, and like to impress others with that fact.
My car is driven, not just looked at. I have a neighbor who was just a bit anal about how his car looked, and never really drove it.
Such a waste.
I drive my Monte Carlo SS and Silverado at least 20 miles every two weeks. We live in the country, so I run them at all speeds. In the winter when it is bad weather, I start them up and run them 20/25 minutes, go through the gears, run the heaters, etc. Years ago, I had another car that I left set, I was in the hospital, and it ruined it.
Just remember that much maintenance is time related. 30 minutes a month and you’ll still get annual maintenance which is sufficient with today’s synthetic oils. Remember to use gasoline stabilizer or if you’re really anal buy non-ethanol fuel but still use stabilizer…a tankful a year is problematic.
Mice! Not only destructive to stored cars, but dangerous to your health. Mice’s dander, droppings and insect infestation can kill you!
goggle hantavirus. But still, the rodent has to be infected too. House mice very seldom carry hantavirus.
Yes a Car cover. Garage rash is a real thing!
I assume you wash and thoroughly dry the car before you cover it. Then, before you uncover it, run a damp cloth over the cover, so the dirt on the outside of the cover doesn’t transfer to the inside of the cover when you fold it up.
I always think of this when I see a covered car in a motel parking lot.
Excellent advice. I don’t need to cover my Cougar often but when I need to I will take your advice.
What year Cougar do you have? Mine is a blue ‘68 that sadly hasn’t been started in a year.
I blow the dust off the cover with compressed air….allow it to settle then remove the car cover. I also made neoprene fender and door pads that have magnets under felt to protect the finish that my car wears under the cover.
Matt, I love that Idea! My 70 Challenger gets the occasional scrape down the drivers side while in the garage…kids are kinda oblivious.
I like to gaze into my garage in the winter months and see my 65 and 71 Vettes. Every week I use the California car duster on them. I also roll them
Forward or backwards to avoid tire flat-spotting. I never cover them anymore, I want to see them, even if only for a few moments! Gives me a small thrill and makes me look forward to spring even more.
I’ve seen so many people roll the cover from one end to the other. So wrong.
The smart way to avoid transferring crap that falls on the outside onto the inside fabric is to pull up each side all the way to the middle of the roof. That way only the outside is touching the outside. At this point, only the inside fabric is exposed. Then pull up another fold on each side, all the way to the middle again. Then the entire cover is only on the flat surface, hood, roof and trunk, with the inside exposed. At that point roll it from the back to the front or vice versa, depending on which is easier for you. Then that roll can be folded in half a couple of times and it will be easier to fit in the bag, so the exposed inside fabric doesn’t get dirty in the trunk. It makes it so much easier to put it back on too. Just reverse the proceedure.
You might try a good battery powered leaf blower. Before uncovering my Challenger in the spring I open the garage doors and blow out the entire garage. Then I blow off the cover before rolling it up. Throughout the summer I pull the car out of the garage and blow it off before washing it .
Bingo. cordless handheld leaf blower is the best. It helps to shake out the cover before rolling it up but that can take a couple people.
Door dings are a garage hazard. I found a vendor at thew Pleasanton Good Guys show a couple of years ago that sold a 12″x3′ pad with a magnet that attaches to the side of your door. The guy makes them at his home, it is called, Ding-B-Gone. I bought six pads for my three-car garage. A couple times I forgot to remove them and had to go back down the street for them. They come in several fashionable colors to match your rides.
All too true, but no excuse not to have a go at some sort of wonderful/vexing project just because your damn garage fridge emits ozone … that’s taking political correctness way too far.
Embrace patina, understand it, relax…
Agree completely. It’s a car folks, it will be just fine sitting for a few months with a car cover on it.
What was political correctness about this? The author simply made the point that the ozone combines with sunlight to speed up the aging and decay of tires and other rubber parts. And, his recommendation, if you can’t give up the garage refrigerator, is to try to limit the amount of sunlight in the garage. Reduce the sunlight exposure in the garage and you’ve removed a factor that the ozone needs to cause such damage. There was nothing political in that piece. Yeesh…
Electric motors with brushes emit ozone, not your sealed motor in the fridge. Brushes make sparklies and sparklies make ozone.
Correct! The compressor motor is hermetically sealed with the compressor in the Freon system. And most other electric motors in the typical hobby shop are split phase with no brushes.
yes. and ventilation!
I keep a small shop fan on low speed under my 64 stingray all winter when it’s not driven. Think it really helps
3 years ago we built a new garage to store up to 4 cars with large work benches, frig, big screen tv, not 1 window in the building. We did that to not have sun light issues and prying eyes.
If the fridge is on an exterior wall, venting may be easy. If you have room, place the refer as far from the car as possible. I think that ventilation will not only help remove ozone, it will keep moisture out, too.
I’m just hopping in to mention a big plus for the fridge. Any rubber stuff that you have laying around can be stored in a fridge. I have spools of rubber band that are 20+ years old and still stretch like if they were brand new. I keep fuel lines, hoses belts even wiper blades in a fridge and do not seem to age. Bicycle tubes, weed eater string, and 2 cycle fuel line can be bought in bulk and last without deterioration so for those who didn’t know this, its a must try.
Good to know! Thanks!
Unless you have an ancient DC motor powering your fridge there is no ozone danger. AC motors do not arc and spark bushes like DC.
That’s correct…only sparking motors, Like drills with brushes, create Ozone. Most AC motors are induction motors and don’t have brushes that spark.
Rubber is just crap these days. Totally designed to degrade faster then it used to. Nothing correct, political or otherwise about that. I’ve got 50 yr old bias ply that are in (relatively) great shape, and 6 yr old radials falling apart. Can’t buy new tires if the old ones don’t fail I guess.
50 year old bias ply tires are called “pop corn” because if they get hot enough for long enough, they go “pop”. There is NOTHING magic about 50 year old bias ply tires. They are AT LEAST as bad as 50 year old radial tires.
Folks who park a car and stare at it have no mechanical understanding. Clutches, brakes, pistons, rear end gears all need movement. Paint needs washing, waxing, polishing and the interiors need vacuuming and fresh air running through them.
Drive. Make memories. Discover far away places. Make it so that you own the car not the other way around.
Amen Glen amen!!!
Glen: Truer words were never spoken. Save and rejoice in the memories. Go out, take a trip to another country, and make new ones. The car will still be there when you get home.
So true Glen. My 1988 Pontiac Fiero Gt that I am the original owner now has 111k miles on her. Roughly 3,100 miles per year. I,m 67 now and I just drive it not worrying about the miles. I can still get in and out of her and will drive untill I can’t. Live in Sebring Fl. I drive her up to GM Nationals in Carlilse Pa and Pontiac Nationals in Norwalk Ohio.. Just ride and enjoy !!!
Well, winter in the NE just won’t allow it. Once they heavily salt the roads, even if it’s been clear and no snow for a few weeks, there’s still a salt dust coating everywhere. It really takes spring rains to wash that away before I’ll drive my 65 unrestored Corvette. I just don’t like the idea that salt dust getting up into the frame and birdcage and settling …
You saved me from having to reply to Glen. Because of salt, I have several cars that sit for six months a year. Even during driving season there is rain, high truck traffic(can you say destroyed windshields) and roads that have so many potholes they resemble a war zone to deal with.
In other words, drive it like you know how to work on it!
Make memories… That’s going to stick with me.
On the list of projects when I recently acquired a 28-year-old, 18K mile car was change the differential, transmission and engine oils. The brake fluid had been changed last year and the coolant looked and tested as new, so I left those for later. The car came without a complete maintenance history, so it seemed a wise and low-cost bit of preventive care. It might be my imagination, but I swear the diff is quieter and the trans shifts better afterwards. But I feel better knowing the fluids are all fresh.
Changed the brake fluid? I’ve had my cuda 34 years and have never changed the brake fluid.
Me neither until I lived in Florida for 20 years where brake fluid seems to somehow easily acquire humidity/water. It caused a clutch to fail in one of my vehicles. Felt like you were stepping on air. I drained and replaced the fluid after testing for moisture content all was back to normal.
Oh no! Brake fluid gets condensation in it over winter.. might be a good idea to make this a winter project.
Brake fluid is designed to attract and hold water. That’s its job. If the car sits then the water will separate, and being heavier than brake fluid, will accumulate and rust the bottoms of calipers/cylinders. At the very least it should be tested for contamination every two years. The VERY least.
Agree, Also the same fluid is always going into the brake cylinders and calipers and out again. It does not circulate. It deteriorates because of excess heat after a while and should be at least bled out occasionally so fresh fluid can replace it.
After plenty of research I made the switch to silicone brake fluid. No moisture and it doesn’t eat paint if it leaks onto your chassis.
Tom: I have a 1946 Ford Pickup and use “ONLY” DOT 5 silicone brake fluid and nothing else. You are correct about no moisture and doesn’t eat the paint. I live on West coast of Florida for over 50 years. Before I started using DOT 5 my wheel cylinders froze up and brake shoes did not release. Replaced all 4 wheel cylinders and master cylinder and no more problems. Have a great day.
DOT 3 brake fluid draws moisture. I change the fluid in my 40 Ford coupe every 2 yrs- just to be safe
Thats what is nice about the MODEL A, no brake fluid, just engine oil, tranny, rear end.
My Model A is so easy to store it rarely comes out… wait, that’s not a good thing!
Stephen: You might want to think about changing your brake fluid to DOT 5 “Silicone”. I have done that in my 1946 Ford Pickup and all I do is check the level in the master cylinder now and than but do not have to change it. No more moisture problems.
Stephen: You might want to think about changing your brake fluid to DOT 5 silicone. I had a moisture problem in my 1946 ford pickup and wheel cylinder’s froze up from moisture and had to replace all wheel cylinders. All I do is check the level now and than but no more moisture problems. I could NOT find DOT 5 in any auto store so I ordered it from Amazon and E Bay.
Emptying the reservoir and refilling the brake fluid is a cheap and good thing to do. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs water from the air. When saturated, water can settle in the wheel cylinders, pitting them. Or even before it becomes saturated, water in the brake fluid damages everything steel.
No condensation if you live in a dry climate. There are test strips that reveal whether there is water in the brake fluid. 2000 BMW 2.5 liter, owned 17 years. 170,000 miles and test strips still said no water in the brake fluid. Sold with original factory brake fluid still in it (6 years in Upstate NY, 6 years in Colorado Springs living at 7000 feet, 5 years in northern California. I would NEVER open the brake fluid reservoir to test the brake fluid on humid days… only on very dry temperate days. Most (all?) reservoirs have a rubber bladder that expands as brake fluid takes up the slack in calipers as brake pads wear and the reservoir level drops which is why I preferred to check the brake fluid for water after compressing the cylinders in the caliper and installing new brake pads so that the brake fluid reservoir is at its “most full” level so I didn’t remove the lid with the bladder with the bladder hanging down. It’s damn near impossible to get all the air out of the reservoir so the rubber bladder is resting on top of brake fluid without air present between the brake fluid and bladder.
2003 Honda Accord w/ 208k. Coolant never changed, checked many times and still good. Fl car which never runs hot even with A/C on full blast. Auto trans fluid in 68 Cougar has been in for at least 20 years and 70k+ miles and should not be changed.
Fluid flushes are not always a good thing in an older car.
Ed: That’s EXACTLY what my trans specialist told me about my 69 Vette Turbo 400 hydramatic. Leave it alone – it shifts perfectly.
.DOT4 fluid absorbs water over time, and that causes steel parts to rust. A three year cycle is cheap preventative maintenance. Why don’t many manufacturer’s recommend this? Your guess is as good as mine.
Manufacturers today only care about two things – their bottom line, and the shareholder’s bottom lines. That’s IT. They could care less about you, since the money keeps rolling in at record levels. If your newer vehicle takes a dump at 70k miles, all the better for them, since now someone has to buy another one! They don’t build anything to last, and make nothing serviceable anymore for the backyard DIY guy. That’s why there hasn’t been a dipstick on a transmission in over 10 years – eliminates the flush & fill simplicity in your driveway, since you have to get UNDER the vehicle and FORCE the fluid UP, rather than simply letting gravity do the work for you. Now 100k miles out of a driveline is a MIRACLE rather than commonplace as in days gone by.
I’m getting deja-vu of the late 70’s – early 80’s where most mid to lower-end cars SUCKED badly, and engines sucked (as far as power output) across the board. These days everything goes like hell, stops on a dime, rides, looks, and handles real nice, but is built like a beer-can with offshore junk parts designed by bean-counters. Main reason people keep buying them – they get sucked in by the niceness, and forget all about bang-for-your-buck.
That’s the main reason every one of my fleet of 6 motor vehicles was built before 1995. I’ll take hassle-free reliability over a cheaped out beer can that handles great.
DOT 3 and DOT 4 Brake fluid absorbs moister. Rusting cylinders is not the only problem. When the fluid absorbs moisture the boiling point of the fluid is decreased. The more moisture the lower it goes. If you have ever experienced boiling brake fluid you will never want to experience it again. You hit the pedal and the car slows down but the friction causes heat in the brakes. When the fluid boils the pedal goes to the floor and the car doesn’t even think of slowing down. This happens with no warning. Best advice is to change the fluid.
I am a retired crew chief for a professional race team. We flushed and changed the brake fluid before every event just for the above reasons.
AMEN ! I crewed on the ‘Vette for the guy that owned the company I worked for, and DESPITE myself AND the entire rest of the crew telling him “NO DAMMIT”, he insisted on going to DOT 4 silicone.
Lost the brakes going up the hill on the main straight at Road America,(heading into corner #1) went thru the 1st catch fence & came to a rest in the tall grass. Emptied 2 extinguishers putting out the grass fire from the headers, and beating smoldering remnants down to avoid torching the car. We had fresh DOT 3 for the rest after that. Yes, DOT 4 does fade & does collect water.
I have never been able to use car covers. My routine is to pop down to the garage multiple times a day just to look around. I love the look of my cars and bike and seeing many car covers as far as the eye can see just doesn’t work for me. The trade off is having to dust the cars off now and then. A fair trade for the visual joy I get on a daily basis. When I have to work on something and might make a bit of a mess I will cover things. I try to work outside as much as possible so as to keep things tidy. It works for me.
While not quite as in love with uncovered cars as you, Tom, I also don’t typically throw the cover on every time I park the car. For longer-term (multiple weeks and over the winter, for instance), I do cover it. But Jeff’s “It only takes a few moments to throw on and off” ignore some realities for some of us. For instance, where my car resides, there just ain’t a lot of room around it, and thus covering and uncovering takes much longer and lots of contorting. And the older I get, the less contorting I can do! When I pull into the garage, it’s highly likely that I might pull right back out the very next day. Backing it out and doing a quick wipedown outside with detail spray is MUCH easier than fighting a cover four times in two days. Now, if it goes into the shop area for some reason, since I raise debris in there from grinding, sanding and other such practices, a full cover goes onto the car and only gets peeled back on the area I’m working on (such as the hood for access to engine bay).
I am hesitant to use a cover after a drive. Sometimes I do, but I feel that there must be dust on the paint and throwing a cover over it, must scratch the car and the dust must get embedded into the cover for the next time (at least into the fabric type covers). Washing the car after each drive would be the remedy, but usually time or darkness do not allow for it. Any ideas? Am I wrong?
You are correct in your comment. Every time I go for a drive, and return to the garage, I do the following. I gently dust off the car with a California Car Duster, shake it out, use a car detailer on every bug remains, etc, that I see as I dust it, and then the car is clean and can be covered. My routine only takes a few minutes and gives me a chance to look over the car thoroughly.
I use a California duster after each ride and then cover the car. Been doing that for over 25 years Paint on my (3 classic) cars is like new with no scratches in any angle light light. I also havent washed the cars in many years. No need to fill up the inner structure with water and invite corrosion. Do the same on my bikes but the workhorse Harley gets washed a few times a season.
Hey Klaus, I recently started using king bed sheets. When I do take my car out , I use the car until its time to rewash it ( 2 to 3 days) , once complete I then put the king bed sheets on it – so easy fold up nice and tidy, made of cotton and easily wash if required. I keep my winter cover for that purpose only. Otherwise the bed sheets just make the entire process super simple.
Excellent idea.
Isn’t it uncomfortable sleeping on the hood or trunk decklid of your car? (LOL)
That depends on how angry the wife is at you for taking the sheets !
Your assessment of car covers is correct. See my earlier comment for the solution.
I can count on one hand the number of times I have washed my 63 Monza convertible using a garden hose. And I have never run it though a car wash. Instead, I keep a bucket of clean water and a microfiber cloth in the garage and give it a sponge bath nearly every time I drive it.
I’m new to this site. I see several references to Monzas. Are we talking about a Corvair Monza? If so, I can relate. I had a daily driver black1965 Monza when I lived in Connecticut. Fun car. No A/C no problem. But then I moved to Palm Beach. Big problem.
.I have owned Corvairs since 1962 when I purchased the first Spyder delivered in Oregon. Great car!!!!
I had several pre and post ’65 all converted to 140HP.
If you are still in Palm springs, I have a factory A/C unit removed from a ’65 and it is in boxes. If you pay the shipping and maybe a restaurant gift cert it is yours. (the COSTCO) dog and coke doesn’t count!
I use a battery powered leaf blower to dust off my car before covering it. And use the same for cleaning off the cover before taking it off.
Why not just sand blast it and call it a day. Here in Los Angeles, you can see the crap the settles on the car each day. I wouldn’t shoot that stuff at my 65 Corvette through a high pressure hose. I hope you live somewhere that has clean air.
My cars get cleaned after every drive, unless it’s still looks virtually clean, and I plan on driving it in the next day or so. Then it gets washed. I would never put a car cover back on after a drive and all dirt cleaned off.
I use clear plastic painters sheets as car covers so I can still look at the cars
Bad idea. They hold in moisture.
Search clear car covers Amazon. Nice and clear with elastic band. 2 for 25 bucks
Just because Amazon sells something doesn’t mean its good for your car (or you)
I usually cover my car. I roll it up back to front to remove and unroll back in place after a drive. It keeps the dust and stuff off the paint and usually just a quick buff with a cloth and it’s ready to go for a spin.
Don’t forget the vermin vs wiring.
Vermin are a hazard even in a garage. Keep them out (peppermint spray is an option), I had one chew through my gas line!
Red Pepper flakes. Hot in the mouth smell. don’t stain and biodegradable. mice don’t like them.
Cats Cats Cats. Had a travel trailer at my lot and found a water line chewed. Brought it home, fixed it, and the next morning found a big rat head lying outside. My cat was happy to help. If you don’t have cats, you will have a rodent problem. That’s why they became our friends long ago.
And if you DO have cats, you likely have a songbird retention problem. Just sayin’…
Not really. If you have a bird friendly enviroment, they will come. Cats vary greatly in their prey drive. We’ve mostly had Siamese, who are terrible mousers. They’re fast and nimble enough to catch a bird, but frankly, they don’t care. They sit and watch them as we do. Besides, good cat parenting dictates you keep them indoors, away from Bear, wolf, coyote, and feral animals of all sorts.
mx5madness@aol.com
House cats kill 2.4 Billion birds per year (on average) and 12.3 Billion mammals are killed per year.
Just in the USA (cat kill totals).
The kill totals are just for the USA
Who counted the dead birds? How long do you think it would take to count 2.4 billion dead birds? I respectfully call that figure bogus.
that’s why theDNR boys make the big bucks! (bird counting 101)
It’s also nice to go to a car show with little paw prints on the hood. LOL
I live in rural SoCal, had a rat and mouse problem. Went to the feed store where my neighbor told me they were giving away kittens.I told the store owner about my rodent problem and she recommended that I take the female kittens because the male cats would become lazy. After a couple months I never saw signs of rodents again.
I had a family of rats move into my 1982 Ferrari 308 GTSI and eat the wiring. Apparently the insulation is soy based and they love it.
Dryer sheets in the engine bay are a pain, but rats hate them.
Fridge motors are a small problem. Hester blowers and other large electrical motors more do damage rubber.
I keep covers on most of the time when it is dusty or high pollen. Other times like now I will leave them off the red car but leave it on the black car.
I thought refrigerator compressors were sealed. No ozone coming out of it
Not only are they sealed they’re also induction motors. Only brushed motors generate ozone. Vacuum cleaners, older power tools, and maybe some garage door openers use em.
garage door openers from before about 1955 – – – Maybe
And any power tool that is not “Brushless”, not just older ones. Check your drill and impact driver. But unless you run them a lot, I doubt the effect would be significant. What about welding, plasma cutters, and grinders? Do they produce ozone?
Garages are often using old fridges.
New ones die before they ever get to the garage.
Until about 10 years ago, I was using a Frigidaire in the garage from 1948. Seriously.
We had a garage refrigerator for 40 years and it was still running fine when we sold the house. House was in PA so winters were cold. Refrigerator hardly runs in a very cold environment and where doors aren’t open and closed frequently.
Lol! Yeah. Just after the warranty expires.
Yes, any modern fridge has a sealed motor/compressor, zero ozone.
Absolutely true. No Ozone comes out of a refrigerator compressor.
Not to mention the author talks about the combination of ozone and extended sunlight….how much extended sunlight do you get inside a closed garage?
Oh, and the bulge call to wake up is Reveille…Taps is for sleep or death. Don’t want to hear ‘Taps’ for a good motor!
A Car wants to be driven. Just leave the engine running for a while is not good. I drive my Citroen BX over 15 miles each time I take her out, get motor slowly up to temperature.. Car is a 1988 with 201,000 km….
Good for you. Just because the coolant is up to temp doesn’t mean the oil temp is. Unless you have a chassis dyno in your garage, the car must be driven.
What works for us is when our car is in for the winter, I leave the hood open and I put clear LED Christmas lights under the car to keep the critters out. In my opinion, car covers just give mice the opportunity to nest anywhere under it. The car is only driven to local car shows. It’s a ’91 Plymouth Laser with 22,414 miles, all original. Just can’t bring myself to drive it and rack the miles up…
Yes, car covers invite mice.
I love the LED light underneath idea. Perfect.
Lights of any kind do not work for these purposes. They do next to nothing. Mothballs, Bounce Dryer sheets, mouse traps and on and on all do some good. So when my car was garaged in PA I used them ALL and never had a problem.
Apparently LED lights do something: They help the mice see what they are eating! Darn, because I put an LED night light under my engine thinking that would help. I hadI forgotten about leaving on a radio with a talk news channel.
I like the peppermint essential oil in the car idea both fumigation with a diffuser as wells as drops. It might keep some types of critters away but, I’ve also received compliments at car shows that my 78 year old car does smell like one!
We buy a big box off Bounce dryer sheets and every fall, when we put the car up for the winter, we use about half of the box and distribute them generously throughout the interior, engine compartment and trunk (including the spare tire well. We also use stainless steel scouring pads to jam into the exhaust tips to keep the mice out of the exhaust system. We over inflate the tires and disconnect the battery. The hardtop is installed back on the car, fuel tank is filled with premium and the car is cleaned, waxed and covered for the winter, here in Vermont. It does not go out again until all of the salt is washed off the roads from the spring rains. We have not had any problems with rodents since the first year that we stored it, when we used peppermint oil!
Wow, what an idea.
I’m curious: Why do clear Christmas lights keep the critters away? They can’t sleep with the lights on? 😂
We had squirrels in the garage (saw droppings), and we were told to leave a boombox playing. Apparently they enjoyed the music because they built a nest on the shelf above the radio. Eventually we trapped and relocated 3 ground squirrels and 3 flying squirrels. No damage, fortunately.
A .177 air rifle quickly dispatched tree rats. No need for relocation as they, well, breed like tree rats.
Try radio on talk radio, human voices more of a deterrent than music.
Busted – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVN9JXUJXdY
LED lights do nothing to deter mice or rats … just googled it
Living in the high desert SouthWest I have found that covers inside can be a real pain. Keeping 20 vintage vehicles indoors in a well ventilated hangar is my answer to most pronlem. The hoods are ALWAYS open for 2 reasons. It relaxes the hood springs and the redents do not like open areas as the cats make short order of any visitors including rattlesnakes. For my fleet the sun is my worst enemy especially on vintage plastic parts. So when going to carshows that require overnight stays all my toys have a car cover in the trunk. I am my own mechanic and maintenance keeper. Works for me! No covers inside.
I agree and I’m located in the same area as you. The minute a car is restored it starts deteriorating. That’s just normal, like everything on the earth including us! Drive them and enjoy. We’re not here forever…
Having vintage cars is definitely a chore. Almost like having another career.
It’s extremely hard to be the perfect custodian, especially if you have multiple rolling treasures. The bottom line is do the best you can, and be thankful to the universe you have them. Sooner or later they will be coveted by a new admirer. The article is a great welcome reminder! I think I will go over to my storage today and turn some keys ✌️
Not “Taps”, but “Reveille”!
“Taps” is for lights-out; “Reveille” for get up!
– Hagerty’s pro-bono proofreader.
Agree 100% Taps is played when your vintage car goes to the crusher after being totalled, NOT when the engine roars back to life after a long winter hibernation period!!
Not that I’m so old, but I think my cell phone has begun playing ‘taps’ for it’s ring tone! What does that mean? A Vet; 1969-70
Any car not just the collector older vehicles need to be used. Rules are have a soft cover but never put it on dirty/dusty paint work. Start the vehicle at a minimum of every two weeks – timing chains, and all engine internals like a feed of oil. Every three weeks take the car for an outing – this ensures that the gearbox/auto trans, shocks, differential, suspension bushes, steering rack, power steering and brakes all get a serve of operating as intended – on and use both the heater and air conditioning to keep the pipes etc in good order.
After the drive put the car in park or in gear if a manual. Do not put the hand brake on as pads on warm/hot discs are not a good idea. You know when you wash a car and have the hand brake on when you release it you can hear it “unstick” the pads from the discs – so after a wash the same don’t park with the handbrake on rule applies.
Tyres on modern cars (they all do well over 100mph) have a recommended life of 5 to 6 years – sure your collectable won’t be driven flat out but tyre conditions and replacement should be part of longer term maintenance despite mileage.
Lastly ensure that your vehicle has a good effective polish and wax. I use a hybrid/ceramic coating self applied.
Really, modern tires have a recommended life of 5 to 6 years? Sounds like a marketing scheme to me …as in planned obsolescence.
I just replaced the tires on my 2013 Lexus RX350 with 88,00 miles on them. Tires were fine, except for the tread depth 🙂
there’s a lot to tires that isn’t known by most people, myself included. that said, the 6-year rule i’m familiar with is a cover-all-bases limit. sometimes a tire can still be good enough to use after this amount of time, but trying to enforce a thorough inspection isn’t cost effective. fyi, the EU some years ago initiated a law requiring tires to be replaced after 6 years. not sure if it still applies.
You cannot tell if a tire is “fine” by looking at it.
I once read a article a few years ago which asked the question of the prevailing common philosophy of 5-6 year tire replacement to a gentleman that was CEO of a vintage tire manufacturer. It was his opinion that if the tires were maintained and stored properly, there was no reason why you couldn’t safely keep them longer. I bought a 1979 Z28 Camaro with 51K miles a few years ago, and it had Goodyear Wingfoot tires on it. They appeared to be in very good condition, but since they were from the 80’s, I changed them out to more current rubber because of the intention to road trip in the car and the difficulty in getting 15″ tires…
“. . . eight trumpets playing the V-8 version of taps . . .” should be:
“. . . eight bugles playing the V-8 version of reveille . . .” Just sayin’.
Good article. If there were ever a case for “If you don’t use it you’ll lose it” it’s letting cars sit dormant. It’s cheaper in the long run to run them.
Absolutely! Having risen at 0500 reveille and saluted the lowering of the flag (including in subfreezing temps) during the playing of retreat, with taps ending the day (also played at military funerals) there is a significant difference regarding these three bugle calls. Thank you for pointing out what some of us consider a noteworthy error.
Can’t agree more on the “use it or lose it “ saying! It goes for us as well as our old vehicles! I’m 75 and refuse to slow down! No fun ! My son and I drive the 72 corvette and 69 chevelle one weekend and the 68 GT 350 clone and 65 427 ac cobra replicar the next weekend! Can’t enjoy them sitting – they got wheels – not legs .