4 Things Silently Killing Your Vintage Car
You click the ignition key one detent to the right. A quick twitch of the right foot to tickle the accelerator pump and set the choke. Another touch on the key and . . .
Nothing.
What should be a crescendo of eight trumpets playing the V-8 version of taps and stirring the car person’s soul awake is instead the painful silence punctuated by the soft click of the ignition cylinder returning to the off position. Wake up, it’s just a nightmare.
At least, for now it is. It could happen to you, though. Nature is a cruel mistress who is conspiring against us and our cars and doing so both vigorously and silently. Here are four main offenders to keep your eye on, since your ears aren’t going to help.
The Garage Fridge
Current moving around inside an electric motor—like the compressor of a refrigerator—produces ozone, and that combined with sunlight can age tires and other rubber parts very rapidly. Replacing dry-rotted but otherwise fine parts gets expensive and annoying very quickly. If you are like me and aren’t ready to give up the fridge or freezer, focus on keeping sunlight away from your vintage ride.
Corrosion
Deep inside your car, there is a war being waged between materials and nature. Hate to break it to you, but nature always wins. That means rust and other types of corrosion are leeching into the metals and connections that not only shape your car but also make it functional and easily serviceable. For every joke about “hearing a car rust” there are five cars that rusted away before the owner even noticed.
Being Parked
Sitting is the last thing cars were designed to do. All of the silent killers, and a few of the noisy ones, attack when the car is laying dormant. These things gain ground while the car is waiting, only for us to claw back some ground with our occasional drives. Oil coatings slip off and leave dry-start conditions inside an engine that could drive an owner to doing the extra work of priming an engine just to go driving. That’s only for those who are both aware and care enough to take that action. For many, ignorance is bliss when turning the ignition key and hearing the rumble through the exhaust pipes.
Friction
Fine, I’ll concede this one is not always silent, but with or without noise, excess friction is making your vintage car smaller with every drive. I’m not even talking about the intentional friction from brake or clutch lining, but instead about the metal-to-metal contact that was never designed to be that way. Grease and oil are subject to gravity just like us, so keeping oil and grease in the right spot is a never-ending task as they silently slide and ooze past seals and gaskets. One small drop on the garage floor might not seem like a big deal but over time can mean lots of very worn-out parts that seemingly happened out of nowhere.
Aiding and abetting these (and sometimes superseding them) is: Apathy.
🚩Succinctly true or laziness. Once a month run till hot will help.
Actually they need to be run under load.
Agreed, but it won’t get lubrication to all points that need it without actually driving. I take mine out at least twice a year and run then around the cul de sacs in my quiet neighbor hood, I do try to run them back and forth every time I start em up, Helps a little, but not like driving.
I agree but suggest more frequent driving. I run my errands every Saturday in my 1968 FIrebird & it continues to operate trouble free.
Don’t let your car sit!
You need to add “Health”. I’m 73 and suffer from stage 4 kidney disease and I have to watch my ’67 Monza slowly deteriorate.
I’m 78, and I understand your problem. I wish I didn’t, but I can’t deny when my own deterioration outpaces my classic. The 67 Honda Black Bomber in my garage just stares at me and makes me feel guilty. Is it time?
Maybe time to let someone else enjoy that classic, I would surely take a look !
It may very well be the right time for you! I’m about to turn 76 in December. I sold my ’84 512 BBi this year. The absolute car love of my life! I brought her out of storage last year and only did very limited driving. The larger rubber on the front end, thanks to my wishes many years ago, and the lack of power steering especially at low speeds, killed both of my shoulders. The dump-truck-like clutch also killed my left hip. I needed to get cortisone shots in all of those joints to recover!
I had so many great years with the Boxer, since my purchase in 1987. Those included regular drives here in VT as well as FCA track events at Lime Rock Park, Summit Point, Watkins Glen x2, Mosport, Road America and lastly at Daytona in 2017. I feel very fortunate to have been able to do all of that and I very thoroughly enjoyed the Boxer through all my years of ownership! It was just time to let her go to another driver, whom I hope will enjoy that car as much as I did.
As Paul Harvey usta say, “the rest of the story” is that I bought a ’91 Lancia Delta HP Integrale on BaT this Spring that I really love. All wheel drive with a 2L turbo 16 v engine and a 5-speed in Monza Red. This lil Hot Hatch gets all the love like the Boxer got wherever I go and it’s sooo much easier to drive!
I encourage you to look around on BaT and you just may find something to fit your driving dreams!!!
Bravo!! Lancia!!👍👍
Was that the one from out of Vancouver? I imported all kinds of cars from Japan and did a couple Lancia Delta HPI’s
Am 80 and still buying older cars. The difference is that I look for cars that are 99% done. As much as I’d like to rebuild a favorite car, it won’t be finished before I’m on the wrong side of the grass. Nothing expensive, but stuff I loved and want an opportunity to enjoy. It keeps me smiling. Odd to me, I’ve purchased collector cars twice sold by 70 year olds Cars they obviously loved, and were sad to see them go. Am letting my estate figure out how to dispose of my few cars. I’ll be driving to my funeral.
You are my kind of guy, sort of. I just turned 80 and I am still building cars. My current project is a 1957 Ford Del Rio. A total rust bucket that I had to rebuild from the ground up. It will be at least another year before it is finished, or maybe never if I die first. But it gives me something to think about each day and allows me to pretend that I still have something to contribute.
I just turne 79 and I have three projects A 97 Boxster minor project and two completes. 1950 Ford Shoebox and a 75 Dart Swinger, plus my brother in laws 1990 Fford F100 stepside. I am trying to make thes my last ones as I will be doing all mechanical, bodt ,and custom upholstery myself. I am hoping to get the Mopar on the rotisserie by spring and complete tje Ford by the.Health and time can take a back seat. Working on our cars keeps cuttig the grass and not pushing it up. Big boy toys forever.
I like your cars. I’m 63 and my first car was a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger I absolutely loved it. Many great memories, would love to have another. They are starting to get pricey. Enjoy
I, too, am 78 with 3 fused vertebrae, so am not as flexible as I used to be. I can still get into and out of my 50k mile 74 450SL–barely. I figure when I need help getting in & out of the car, it’s time to sell, but not before.
77 and still driving my Z8 regularly.
I too am 77 and still driving my Z3 regularly. Very much do like the car but oh if it only could be a Z8. Good for you.
I am 77 and I have it in my will to be buried in my 1998 Z3M. Sadly, my hips won’t allow me to ride my Triumph Scrambler Steve McQueen edition and that just sits under a cover.
Awesome. I too have a 74 450 sl. And honestly, just two days ago took her out, upon getting in I realized it seems awfully tight to get in these days. I usually wind up with a leg cramp or a tweak in my back. lol. But once inside. Oh boy. It fixes everything. Steve
I have a yellow 64 thunderbird that I just rejuvenated. So nice to have her back after 59 plus years.
It’s never too late!
I hate to say it but u should let it go and have someone else enjoy the car. Your memories will never be taken from u I’m 70 have a 64 rivi. Know the feeling I have a T.O.D. The car will go to my son’s when I pass, un molested
I’m 70 and still put 3000 miles a year on my 49 Chevy 3100 pick up. It’s all original except paint and 12 volts and new vinyl on bench seat . Runs great but original suspension does make it hard on these old bones.
I am 72 and have owned a 64 Vette for 47 years. I’ve always said when I look silly getting in and out of it I need to sell it. Well it’s getting close. My wife has had both knees replaced and she struggles with it. I’m starting to have a harder time also. I don’t want it sitting in the garage and falling apart but dang I sure hate to sell it. I have two daughters who aren’t interested in it so I know what I need to do. If you love it let it go to someone else who can enjoy it.
Difficult for sure, but well said !
79, and still restoring, but my health could be a lot worse; you have my empathy. Like most old fossils, I have some congestive heart issues, stage 3-5 prostate cancer (big biopsy at VA in Jan. — ooh!) and general tired/soreness. Finishing Dad’s old ’51 Chevy 2-dr ‘restomod’ for my son, and getting a ’61 Tempest coupe with Buick OE 215 alloy V-8 ready to paint now. Yep, my ’71 240Z is not getting better only being driven 3-4 times a year now; after full resto I’m now chicken to endanger it’s value, as it constitutes a large part of our nest egg! Must probably put on market soon — and it’s under 500 mi. on ground-up build; never driven through a puddle! (Wait; was that a pun, back there? Don’t throw rotten eggs…!)
Lucky I’m still mobile and thinking (at times) so I’ll do it until I don’t. Good luck, man!
Hi James
Good to hear your still restoring at your age
I am a big fan of the 240 Z’s ! Sold my 70 Z
last year and am having sellers remorse.
I would be interested in learning more about yours if you are looking to sell it any time soon . Call me if you want to start a dialogue
813-293-2392
Thanks and god speed
Wick…. your comment caught my eye as I hope to still be able to work on my cars another six years down the road as I just turned 73 a couple months ago. Presently still working (flying corporate aircraft) and trying to keep a couple paces ahead of being an “old guy.” Owned and drove daily, a ‘76 280Z 2+2 from 1980 to 2003 but finally had to give it up as rust began taking its toll on the unibody frame rails. I had completed a ground up resto on a ’65 Mustang a few years earlier and just didn’t want to get “that deep” into car repair again…. but would love to have my 280 back though. I think the ’76Z was one of she best versions Datsun/Nissan produced in the 1970s. I have a ’93 Mustang 5.0 GT 5-spd convertible that doesn’t get much attention/love as I’ve probably put 50 miles on it in the past ten years.
“Don’t let the ‘old man’ in”
Had a 62, and a Greenbriar Van. A Monza was always on my radar, but other cars had priority. 70 Opel GT & 69 AMX $$$ pit.
I’m still able to work on them. 80 & thankfully still healthy. Considering selling or donating ?
Hi Ken, I had a 70 Opel GT for 42 years. Such a reliable and fun car!
I have an Evening Orchid 65 Monza for sale. It’s in Classic Cars.
Found your Corvair. Beautiful!!
Hi
Interested in your Monza
I got my 1960 MGA in 1970. I am fortunate to have Boys with maturity and a sense of humor. They will divide up what’s left after I’m no more. The car now sits, is driven regularly and is started every week. My biggest problem is rodents that chew apart the moving blankets under which is the car. I realize that I have gotten off easy. So far.
I’ve used a bait station in the garage where my 300H convertible is kept and have had excellent results. Just make sure to inspect the bait every time you are at the garage to keep it loaded. TOMCAT RAT KILLER II is the brand I’ve used. Good luck.
Rat Killer is bad stuff. If you have small children or pets beware. The new poisons don’t have antidotes yet. I use live bait traps then I can let my Beagle chase them after I catch them and release.
Using poison for ‘Rat control’ may not be such a good idea. They eat the stuff and then go somewhere in a tight space and die………and then start to stink. Use traps with peanut butter on them and check them often.
My advice get rid of moving blankets beside rodents it will hold moisture. Get real car cover. I just use clear plastic. I’ve seen blankets pickup moisture and it wrecked the paint.
MGA 1960, since 1971. The only
thing I’ve had longer is my wife.
Plastic blocks air circulation and out-gasses that hard-to-remove “film”/fog that gets on the insides of car windows. Plastic sheeting does the same out-gassing onto the paint of your classic. A fabric cover that is waterproof and breathable is best.
Plastic sheet is the worst thing to cover a car with. Back in 1977 I was offered a ’67 Mustang V8 Coupe for R5k (South African Rand) but as I wasn’t interested at that time I deferred. A couple of years later the owner contacted me and said I could now have it for R2k as he just wanted to get rid of it as it was now standing outside. When I got there I saw it was covered with a black plastic sheet and when it was uncovered the orange paintwork looked like marble. I bought the car as I owned an auto detailing company at the time and figured I might be able to clean it up a little. I was quoted R3k for a re paint, however, my 7 year old son started scraping at the paint with his finger nail and the water mark disappeared! I went to the local store, bought some 1500 grit sand paper and gave the car a one day make over before taking it to my local panel beater for a polish, and it came back better than new.
So sorry to hear that.
I’m 83 and my Jaguar xk8 only gets out once a week and has a trickle charge on it. Having new coil packs installed, just couldn’t do them on my own anymore. well drive it as long as I am able.
i have a 2005 jaguar xk with 130000 miles and drive it every week or so.89 years old and dread the thought having to let it go
I’m 79 and I’ve decided that it’s time to see more of the world during the next 10 years instead of the 72 Dino, the 69 Vette (original owner), the CL 55 AMG, the Fury Chopper, and too many other sentimental toys in my garage and storage warehouse. They are all prepped and “on the market.” (Thank g-d I sold the boat.) Get out and see the world is my battle cry now till I die!
Sorry to hear that. Do you have family to help you sell it, or can you donate it to a charity?
Do you have a younger person you know who loves cars and cannot buy a classic that would love to take you for a drive in yours? Younger does not have to mean 21, it can mean 51.
Yes, sadly Apathy. I invent reasons to drive my car on the weekends. I do all my errand driving on weekends, drive to meet friends at the local burger shack or pub, or simply take my dog for a drive. Keeping your shiny polished car locked in a garage is heresy. Trailer queens are for those people who have more money than brains, and like to impress others with that fact.
Yes a Car cover. Garage rash is a real thing!
I assume you wash and thoroughly dry the car before you cover it. Then, before you uncover it, run a damp cloth over the cover, so the dirt on the outside of the cover doesn’t transfer to the inside of the cover when you fold it up.
I always think of this when I see a covered car in a motel parking lot.
Excellent advice. I don’t need to cover my Cougar often but when I need to I will take your advice.
What year Cougar do you have? Mine is a blue ‘68 that sadly hasn’t been started in a year.
I blow the dust off the cover with compressed air….allow it to settle then remove the car cover. I also made neoprene fender and door pads that have magnets under felt to protect the finish that my car wears under the cover.
Matt, I love that Idea! My 70 Challenger gets the occasional scrape down the drivers side while in the garage…kids are kinda oblivious.
I’ve seen so many people roll the cover from one end to the other. So wrong.
The smart way to avoid transferring crap that falls on the outside onto the inside fabric is to pull up each side all the way to the middle of the roof. That way only the outside is touching the outside. At this point, only the inside fabric is exposed. Then pull up another fold on each side, all the way to the middle again. Then the entire cover is only on the flat surface, hood, roof and trunk, with the inside exposed. At that point roll it from the back to the front or vice versa, depending on which is easier for you. Then that roll can be folded in half a couple of times and it will be easier to fit in the bag, so the exposed inside fabric doesn’t get dirty in the trunk. It makes it so much easier to put it back on too. Just reverse the proceedure.
All too true, but no excuse not to have a go at some sort of wonderful/vexing project just because your damn garage fridge emits ozone … that’s taking political correctness way too far.
Embrace patina, understand it, relax…
Agree completely. It’s a car folks, it will be just fine sitting for a few months with a car cover on it.
What was political correctness about this? The author simply made the point that the ozone combines with sunlight to speed up the aging and decay of tires and other rubber parts. And, his recommendation, if you can’t give up the garage refrigerator, is to try to limit the amount of sunlight in the garage. Reduce the sunlight exposure in the garage and you’ve removed a factor that the ozone needs to cause such damage. There was nothing political in that piece. Yeesh…
Electric motors with brushes emit ozone, not your sealed motor in the fridge. Brushes make sparklies and sparklies make ozone.
yes. and ventilation!
I keep a small shop fan on low speed under my 64 stingray all winter when it’s not driven. Think it really helps
3 years ago we built a new garage to store up to 4 cars with large work benches, frig, big screen tv, not 1 window in the building. We did that to not have sun light issues and prying eyes.
If the fridge is on an exterior wall, venting may be easy. If you have room, place the refer as far from the car as possible. I think that ventilation will not only help remove ozone, it will keep moisture out, too.
I’m just hopping in to mention a big plus for the fridge. Any rubber stuff that you have laying around can be stored in a fridge. I have spools of rubber band that are 20+ years old and still stretch like if they were brand new. I keep fuel lines, hoses belts even wiper blades in a fridge and do not seem to age. Bicycle tubes, weed eater string, and 2 cycle fuel line can be bought in bulk and last without deterioration so for those who didn’t know this, its a must try.
Good to know! Thanks!
Unless you have an ancient DC motor powering your fridge there is no ozone danger. AC motors do not arc and spark bushes like DC.
That’s correct…only sparking motors, Like drills with brushes, create Ozone. Most AC motors are induction motors and don’t have brushes that spark.
Rubber is just crap these days. Totally designed to degrade faster then it used to. Nothing correct, political or otherwise about that. I’ve got 50 yr old bias ply that are in (relatively) great shape, and 6 yr old radials falling apart. Can’t buy new tires if the old ones don’t fail I guess.
50 year old bias ply tires are called “pop corn” because if they get hot enough for long enough, they go “pop”. There is NOTHING magic about 50 year old bias ply tires. They are AT LEAST as bad as 50 year old radial tires.
Folks who park a car and stare at it have no mechanical understanding. Clutches, brakes, pistons, rear end gears all need movement. Paint needs washing, waxing, polishing and the interiors need vacuuming and fresh air running through them.
Drive. Make memories. Discover far away places. Make it so that you own the car not the other way around.
Amen Glen amen!!!
Glen: Truer words were never spoken. Save and rejoice in the memories. Go out, take a trip to another country, and make new ones. The car will still be there when you get home.
So true Glen. My 1988 Pontiac Fiero Gt that I am the original owner now has 111k miles on her. Roughly 3,100 miles per year. I,m 67 now and I just drive it not worrying about the miles. I can still get in and out of her and will drive untill I can’t. Live in Sebring Fl. I drive her up to GM Nationals in Carlilse Pa and Pontiac Nationals in Norwalk Ohio.. Just ride and enjoy !!!
Well, winter in the NE just won’t allow it. Once they heavily salt the roads, even if it’s been clear and no snow for a few weeks, there’s still a salt dust coating everywhere. It really takes spring rains to wash that away before I’ll drive my 65 unrestored Corvette. I just don’t like the idea that salt dust getting up into the frame and birdcage and settling …
In other words, drive it like you know how to work on it!
On the list of projects when I recently acquired a 28-year-old, 18K mile car was change the differential, transmission and engine oils. The brake fluid had been changed last year and the coolant looked and tested as new, so I left those for later. The car came without a complete maintenance history, so it seemed a wise and low-cost bit of preventive care. It might be my imagination, but I swear the diff is quieter and the trans shifts better afterwards. But I feel better knowing the fluids are all fresh.
Changed the brake fluid? I’ve had my cuda 34 years and have never changed the brake fluid.
Me neither until I lived in Florida for 20 years where brake fluid seems to somehow easily acquire humidity/water. It caused a clutch to fail in one of my vehicles. Felt like you were stepping on air. I drained and replaced the fluid after testing for moisture content all was back to normal.
Oh no! Brake fluid gets condensation in it over winter.. might be a good idea to make this a winter project.
Brake fluid is designed to attract and hold water. That’s its job. If the car sits then the water will separate, and being heavier than brake fluid, will accumulate and rust the bottoms of calipers/cylinders. At the very least it should be tested for contamination every two years. The VERY least.
Agree, Also the same fluid is always going into the brake cylinders and calipers and out again. It does not circulate. It deteriorates because of excess heat after a while and should be at least bled out occasionally so fresh fluid can replace it.
After plenty of research I made the switch to silicone brake fluid. No moisture and it doesn’t eat paint if it leaks onto your chassis.
Tom: I have a 1946 Ford Pickup and use “ONLY” DOT 5 silicone brake fluid and nothing else. You are correct about no moisture and doesn’t eat the paint. I live on West coast of Florida for over 50 years. Before I started using DOT 5 my wheel cylinders froze up and brake shoes did not release. Replaced all 4 wheel cylinders and master cylinder and no more problems. Have a great day.
DOT 3 brake fluid draws moisture. I change the fluid in my 40 Ford coupe every 2 yrs- just to be safe
Thats what is nice about the MODEL A, no brake fluid, just engine oil, tranny, rear end.
My Model A is so easy to store it rarely comes out… wait, that’s not a good thing!
Stephen: You might want to think about changing your brake fluid to DOT 5 “Silicone”. I have done that in my 1946 Ford Pickup and all I do is check the level in the master cylinder now and than but do not have to change it. No more moisture problems.
Stephen: You might want to think about changing your brake fluid to DOT 5 silicone. I had a moisture problem in my 1946 ford pickup and wheel cylinder’s froze up from moisture and had to replace all wheel cylinders. All I do is check the level now and than but no more moisture problems. I could NOT find DOT 5 in any auto store so I ordered it from Amazon and E Bay.
Emptying the reservoir and refilling the brake fluid is a cheap and good thing to do. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs water from the air. When saturated, water can settle in the wheel cylinders, pitting them. Or even before it becomes saturated, water in the brake fluid damages everything steel.
2003 Honda Accord w/ 208k. Coolant never changed, checked many times and still good. Fl car which never runs hot even with A/C on full blast. Auto trans fluid in 68 Cougar has been in for at least 20 years and 70k+ miles and should not be changed.
Fluid flushes are not always a good thing in an older car.
Ed: That’s EXACTLY what my trans specialist told me about my 69 Vette Turbo 400 hydramatic. Leave it alone – it shifts perfectly.
.DOT4 fluid absorbs water over time, and that causes steel parts to rust. A three year cycle is cheap preventative maintenance. Why don’t many manufacturer’s recommend this? Your guess is as good as mine.
Manufacturers today only care about two things – their bottom line, and the shareholder’s bottom lines. That’s IT. They could care less about you, since the money keeps rolling in at record levels. If your newer vehicle takes a dump at 70k miles, all the better for them, since now someone has to buy another one! They don’t build anything to last, and make nothing serviceable anymore for the backyard DIY guy. That’s why there hasn’t been a dipstick on a transmission in over 10 years – eliminates the flush & fill simplicity in your driveway, since you have to get UNDER the vehicle and FORCE the fluid UP, rather than simply letting gravity do the work for you. Now 100k miles out of a driveline is a MIRACLE rather than commonplace as in days gone by.
I’m getting deja-vu of the late 70’s – early 80’s where most mid to lower-end cars SUCKED badly, and engines sucked (as far as power output) across the board. These days everything goes like hell, stops on a dime, rides, looks, and handles real nice, but is built like a beer-can with offshore junk parts designed by bean-counters. Main reason people keep buying them – they get sucked in by the niceness, and forget all about bang-for-your-buck.
That’s the main reason every one of my fleet of 6 motor vehicles was built before 1995. I’ll take hassle-free reliability over a cheaped out beer can that handles great.
DOT 3 and DOT 4 Brake fluid absorbs moister. Rusting cylinders is not the only problem. When the fluid absorbs moisture the boiling point of the fluid is decreased. The more moisture the lower it goes. If you have ever experienced boiling brake fluid you will never want to experience it again. You hit the pedal and the car slows down but the friction causes heat in the brakes. When the fluid boils the pedal goes to the floor and the car doesn’t even think of slowing down. This happens with no warning. Best advice is to change the fluid.
I am a retired crew chief for a professional race team. We flushed and changed the brake fluid before every event just for the above reasons.
AMEN ! I crewed on the ‘Vette for the guy that owned the company I worked for, and DESPITE myself AND the entire rest of the crew telling him “NO DAMMIT”, he insisted on going to DOT 4 silicone.
Lost the brakes going up the hill on the main straight at Road America,(heading into corner #1) went thru the 1st catch fence & came to a rest in the tall grass. Emptied 2 extinguishers putting out the grass fire from the headers, and beating smoldering remnants down to avoid torching the car. We had fresh DOT 3 for the rest after that. Yes, DOT 4 does fade & does collect water.
I have never been able to use car covers. My routine is to pop down to the garage multiple times a day just to look around. I love the look of my cars and bike and seeing many car covers as far as the eye can see just doesn’t work for me. The trade off is having to dust the cars off now and then. A fair trade for the visual joy I get on a daily basis. When I have to work on something and might make a bit of a mess I will cover things. I try to work outside as much as possible so as to keep things tidy. It works for me.
While not quite as in love with uncovered cars as you, Tom, I also don’t typically throw the cover on every time I park the car. For longer-term (multiple weeks and over the winter, for instance), I do cover it. But Jeff’s “It only takes a few moments to throw on and off” ignore some realities for some of us. For instance, where my car resides, there just ain’t a lot of room around it, and thus covering and uncovering takes much longer and lots of contorting. And the older I get, the less contorting I can do! When I pull into the garage, it’s highly likely that I might pull right back out the very next day. Backing it out and doing a quick wipedown outside with detail spray is MUCH easier than fighting a cover four times in two days. Now, if it goes into the shop area for some reason, since I raise debris in there from grinding, sanding and other such practices, a full cover goes onto the car and only gets peeled back on the area I’m working on (such as the hood for access to engine bay).
I am hesitant to use a cover after a drive. Sometimes I do, but I feel that there must be dust on the paint and throwing a cover over it, must scratch the car and the dust must get embedded into the cover for the next time (at least into the fabric type covers). Washing the car after each drive would be the remedy, but usually time or darkness do not allow for it. Any ideas? Am I wrong?
You are correct in your comment. Every time I go for a drive, and return to the garage, I do the following. I gently dust off the car with a California Car Duster, shake it out, use a car detailer on every bug remains, etc, that I see as I dust it, and then the car is clean and can be covered. My routine only takes a few minutes and gives me a chance to look over the car thoroughly.
I use a California duster after each ride and then cover the car. Been doing that for over 25 years Paint on my (3 classic) cars is like new with no scratches in any angle light light. I also havent washed the cars in many years. No need to fill up the inner structure with water and invite corrosion. Do the same on my bikes but the workhorse Harley gets washed a few times a season.
Hey Klaus, I recently started using king bed sheets. When I do take my car out , I use the car until its time to rewash it ( 2 to 3 days) , once complete I then put the king bed sheets on it – so easy fold up nice and tidy, made of cotton and easily wash if required. I keep my winter cover for that purpose only. Otherwise the bed sheets just make the entire process super simple.
Excellent idea.
Isn’t it uncomfortable sleeping on the hood or trunk decklid of your car? (LOL)
Your assessment of car covers is correct. See my earlier comment for the solution.
I can count on one hand the number of times I have washed my 63 Monza convertible using a garden hose. And I have never run it though a car wash. Instead, I keep a bucket of clean water and a microfiber cloth in the garage and give it a sponge bath nearly every time I drive it.
I’m new to this site. I see several references to Monzas. Are we talking about a Corvair Monza? If so, I can relate. I had a daily driver black1965 Monza when I lived in Connecticut. Fun car. No A/C no problem. But then I moved to Palm Beach. Big problem.
.I have owned Corvairs since 1962 when I purchased the first Spyder delivered in Oregon. Great car!!!!
I had several pre and post ’65 all converted to 140HP.
If you are still in Palm springs, I have a factory A/C unit removed from a ’65 and it is in boxes. If you pay the shipping and maybe a restaurant gift cert it is yours. (the COSTCO) dog and coke doesn’t count!
I use a battery powered leaf blower to dust off my car before covering it. And use the same for cleaning off the cover before taking it off.
Why not just sand blast it and call it a day. Here in Los Angeles, you can see the crap the settles on the car each day. I wouldn’t shoot that stuff at my 65 Corvette through a high pressure hose. I hope you live somewhere that has clean air.
I use clear plastic painters sheets as car covers so I can still look at the cars
Bad idea. They hold in moisture.
Search clear car covers Amazon. Nice and clear with elastic band. 2 for 25 bucks
Just because Amazon sells something doesn’t mean its good for your car (or you)
I usually cover my car. I roll it up back to front to remove and unroll back in place after a drive. It keeps the dust and stuff off the paint and usually just a quick buff with a cloth and it’s ready to go for a spin.
Don’t forget the vermin vs wiring.
Vermin are a hazard even in a garage. Keep them out (peppermint spray is an option), I had one chew through my gas line!
Red Pepper flakes. Hot in the mouth smell. don’t stain and biodegradable. mice don’t like them.
Cats Cats Cats. Had a travel trailer at my lot and found a water line chewed. Brought it home, fixed it, and the next morning found a big rat head lying outside. My cat was happy to help. If you don’t have cats, you will have a rodent problem. That’s why they became our friends long ago.
And if you DO have cats, you likely have a songbird retention problem. Just sayin’…
Not really. If you have a bird friendly enviroment, they will come. Cats vary greatly in their prey drive. We’ve mostly had Siamese, who are terrible mousers. They’re fast and nimble enough to catch a bird, but frankly, they don’t care. They sit and watch them as we do. Besides, good cat parenting dictates you keep them indoors, away from Bear, wolf, coyote, and feral animals of all sorts.
mx5madness@aol.com
House cats kill 2.4 Billion birds per year (on average) and 12.3 Billion mammals are killed per year.
Just in the USA (cat kill totals).
The kill totals are just for the USA
It’s also nice to go to a car show with little paw prints on the hood. LOL
I live in rural SoCal, had a rat and mouse problem. Went to the feed store where my neighbor told me they were giving away kittens.I told the store owner about my rodent problem and she recommended that I take the female kittens because the male cats would become lazy. After a couple months I never saw signs of rodents again.
I had a family of rats move into my 1982 Ferrari 308 GTSI and eat the wiring. Apparently the insulation is soy based and they love it.
Dryer sheets in the engine bay are a pain, but rats hate them.
Fridge motors are a small problem. Hester blowers and other large electrical motors more do damage rubber.
I keep covers on most of the time when it is dusty or high pollen. Other times like now I will leave them off the red car but leave it on the black car.
I thought refrigerator compressors were sealed. No ozone coming out of it
Not only are they sealed they’re also induction motors. Only brushed motors generate ozone. Vacuum cleaners, older power tools, and maybe some garage door openers use em.
garage door openers from before about 1955 – – – Maybe
And any power tool that is not “Brushless”, not just older ones. Check your drill and impact driver. But unless you run them a lot, I doubt the effect would be significant. What about welding, plasma cutters, and grinders? Do they produce ozone?
Garages are often using old fridges.
New ones die before they ever get to the garage.
Until about 10 years ago, I was using a Frigidaire in the garage from 1948. Seriously.
We had a garage refrigerator for 40 years and it was still running fine when we sold the house. House was in PA so winters were cold. Refrigerator hardly runs in a very cold environment and where doors aren’t open and closed frequently.
Lol! Yeah. Just after the warranty expires.
Yes, any modern fridge has a sealed motor/compressor, zero ozone.
Absolutely true. No Ozone comes out of a refrigerator compressor.
Not to mention the author talks about the combination of ozone and extended sunlight….how much extended sunlight do you get inside a closed garage?
Oh, and the bulge call to wake up is Reveille…Taps is for sleep or death. Don’t want to hear ‘Taps’ for a good motor!
A Car wants to be driven. Just leave the engine running for a while is not good. I drive my Citroen BX over 15 miles each time I take her out, get motor slowly up to temperature.. Car is a 1988 with 201,000 km….
Good for you. Just because the coolant is up to temp doesn’t mean the oil temp is. Unless you have a chassis dyno in your garage, the car must be driven.
What works for us is when our car is in for the winter, I leave the hood open and I put clear LED Christmas lights under the car to keep the critters out. In my opinion, car covers just give mice the opportunity to nest anywhere under it. The car is only driven to local car shows. It’s a ’91 Plymouth Laser with 22,414 miles, all original. Just can’t bring myself to drive it and rack the miles up…
Yes, car covers invite mice.
I love the LED light underneath idea. Perfect.
Lights of any kind do not work for these purposes. They do next to nothing. Mothballs, Bounce Dryer sheets, mouse traps and on and on all do some good. So when my car was garaged in PA I used them ALL and never had a problem.
Wow, what an idea.
I’m curious: Why do clear Christmas lights keep the critters away? They can’t sleep with the lights on? 😂
We had squirrels in the garage (saw droppings), and we were told to leave a boombox playing. Apparently they enjoyed the music because they built a nest on the shelf above the radio. Eventually we trapped and relocated 3 ground squirrels and 3 flying squirrels. No damage, fortunately.
A .177 air rifle quickly dispatched tree rats. No need for relocation as they, well, breed like tree rats.
Try radio on talk radio, human voices more of a deterrent than music.
Busted – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVN9JXUJXdY
LED lights do nothing to deter mice or rats … just googled it
Living in the high desert SouthWest I have found that covers inside can be a real pain. Keeping 20 vintage vehicles indoors in a well ventilated hangar is my answer to most pronlem. The hoods are ALWAYS open for 2 reasons. It relaxes the hood springs and the redents do not like open areas as the cats make short order of any visitors including rattlesnakes. For my fleet the sun is my worst enemy especially on vintage plastic parts. So when going to carshows that require overnight stays all my toys have a car cover in the trunk. I am my own mechanic and maintenance keeper. Works for me! No covers inside.
I agree and I’m located in the same area as you. The minute a car is restored it starts deteriorating. That’s just normal, like everything on the earth including us! Drive them and enjoy. We’re not here forever…
Having vintage cars is definitely a chore. Almost like having another career.
It’s extremely hard to be the perfect custodian, especially if you have multiple rolling treasures. The bottom line is do the best you can, and be thankful to the universe you have them. Sooner or later they will be coveted by a new admirer. The article is a great welcome reminder! I think I will go over to my storage today and turn some keys ✌️
Not “Taps”, but “Reveille”!
“Taps” is for lights-out; “Reveille” for get up!
– Hagerty’s pro-bono proofreader.
Agree 100% Taps is played when your vintage car goes to the crusher after being totalled, NOT when the engine roars back to life after a long winter hibernation period!!
Not that I’m so old, but I think my cell phone has begun playing ‘taps’ for it’s ring tone! What does that mean? A Vet; 1969-70
Any car not just the collector older vehicles need to be used. Rules are have a soft cover but never put it on dirty/dusty paint work. Start the vehicle at a minimum of every two weeks – timing chains, and all engine internals like a feed of oil. Every three weeks take the car for an outing – this ensures that the gearbox/auto trans, shocks, differential, suspension bushes, steering rack, power steering and brakes all get a serve of operating as intended – on and use both the heater and air conditioning to keep the pipes etc in good order.
After the drive put the car in park or in gear if a manual. Do not put the hand brake on as pads on warm/hot discs are not a good idea. You know when you wash a car and have the hand brake on when you release it you can hear it “unstick” the pads from the discs – so after a wash the same don’t park with the handbrake on rule applies.
Tyres on modern cars (they all do well over 100mph) have a recommended life of 5 to 6 years – sure your collectable won’t be driven flat out but tyre conditions and replacement should be part of longer term maintenance despite mileage.
Lastly ensure that your vehicle has a good effective polish and wax. I use a hybrid/ceramic coating self applied.
Really, modern tires have a recommended life of 5 to 6 years? Sounds like a marketing scheme to me …as in planned obsolescence.
I just replaced the tires on my 2013 Lexus RX350 with 88,00 miles on them. Tires were fine, except for the tread depth 🙂
there’s a lot to tires that isn’t known by most people, myself included. that said, the 6-year rule i’m familiar with is a cover-all-bases limit. sometimes a tire can still be good enough to use after this amount of time, but trying to enforce a thorough inspection isn’t cost effective. fyi, the EU some years ago initiated a law requiring tires to be replaced after 6 years. not sure if it still applies.
You cannot tell if a tire is “fine” by looking at it.
“. . . eight trumpets playing the V-8 version of taps . . .” should be:
“. . . eight bugles playing the V-8 version of reveille . . .” Just sayin’.
Good article. If there were ever a case for “If you don’t use it you’ll lose it” it’s letting cars sit dormant. It’s cheaper in the long run to run them.