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Piston Slap: Pressurizing Oil Before the Springtime Startup
Eric writes:
Hi, I have a 2023 Mustang 5.0 with only 5,500 miles. It sits in storage for months up here in Maine during the snow/road-salt season. I hate starting the engine without turning it over to build up some oil pressure. The Ford dealer’s service manager told me there is no way to turn engine over with it starting! Any ideas?
Sajeev answers:
Before we proceed, we have a ton of vehicle storage information here, and it might just make winter storage a lot easier for anyone reading this article.
Eric, your question brings up a bigger issue: There is no need to start the engine just to build oil pressure while in short-term car storage. Engines will not lose any power (i.e. they won’t incur internal wear/damage) from storage, as proven here. But you likely asked this question to ensure the motor is fully primed with pressurized oil before the Mustang cranks over and leaves the garage in the springtime.
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And that’s a fair question, but I doubt the problem of engine wear on startup is significant. Like most automakers, Ford insists on pretty thin oils these days. While they may drain and de-pressurize quicker, the flipside is also true: they build pressure quickly. And these oils are semi-synthetic in composition, but many folks upgrade to a fully synthetic oil for even more protection. No matter your choice, all oils have improved over time. If these petrochemical advancements aren’t easing your fears, let’s try to help you build oil pressure before your first springtime journey.
The Ford dealer may be right, as I do not have a new Ford to try out what I am proposing. While you can no longer pull the main wire from a distributor to make a car crank (no ignition), I assume pulling the correct fuse still eliminates its source of fuel. (Yes, it could be a fuel pump relay, but let’s not get bogged down in semantics.)
The fuse/relay box is under the hood, and the owner’s manual tells you which little thing to yank to kill the fuel pump (there are two for the GT500 model!). Pulling it should let you turn the motor without the risk of it firing up. Also, depending on accessibility, you could rotate the crank pulley with a breaker bar and a socket. Ultimately, though, I don’t think this is worth the effort.
But my word is never final, so what do the readers of Hagerty Media say? Sound off in the comments.
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To answer the question with a question. I don’t understand not occasionally running a running car when it’s off the road for the winter. On a relatively nice weekend back her up in the driveway, let run for a while and come up to temp, open or crack the windows and let it air out a bit. Maybe check that everything is still working as it should. You get the idea. Also less chances of any surprises when it’s time for that first spring drive. Keeping things moving and circulating always seems better than letting them sit idle for a relatively prolonged period. Or am I wrong?
You are correct that it’s better to keep things moving than letting a car sit still for long periods of time. Most cars, though, if properly prepped for winter storage, will do fine for those 3-5 or so months of hibernation.
The problem in the wintertime in colder climates is that just starting up a car and letting it idle won’t get the engine, and engine oil, up to full operating temperature, not to mention the transmission and the rest of the car. If the weather and roads allow for it, better to take it out for at least a 30 minute drive so it can get up to operating temp and get everything moving. Otherwise, let it sit.
Then, when it’s time to bring it out of winter hibernation, do what Sajeev recommends before starting the engine and going out for that first spring drive.
I don’t think you’re wrong (allowing for you presupposition). In fact, if you’re worried about the oil draining down to the point of potential damage at Spring start-up, I think you could even just start it up for a few minutes without putting it outside and getting up to temp. That will at least bring some oil pressure up once every week or two. Granted, not getting up to temp can cause some other issues, but the original question is about oiling, so…
Disconnect the fuel injector harness, or pull the ECU fuse. Both will guarantee no start on crank.
You need to consider many store car in places where they park it and leave till spring. It may be a warehouse, and distant location or other place you just can’t start or move.m
You and I are lucky to be able to do this but many not so lucky.
Yes keep it moving us best if you can.
(ps) this presupposes that your not summering in a different location for instance.
Having said that, though, I think Sajeev makes a great point about today’s oils – and even engine component metals – let alone more efficient oiling systems, pumps, etc. I really don’t much concern myself with start-up on any of my modern engines that have sat for a while.
Look 6 months is not six years. Today’s oils will leave a coating and it will start with no issues and damage.
To be honest your car runs just the same after an oil change.
That brings up a new thing. Now they say not to pre fill your filter when changing oil. The oil you put in is not filtered and even new has things that need filtered before they go into the engine. Also many filters can’t be pre bill since they are on their side. But this is another argument.
If you feel the need most new cars today will not start with the gas pedal on the floor. It is designed to clear cylinders should it flood. Just don’t crank more than 15 or 20 second at a time. You can damage a starter it it over years.
The truth is the margin of error on oil is pretty wide at idle. I have seen cars run with no oil and refilled and live long lives. If the engine was already in poor condition it may matter.
I have seen cars that were stored every year for decades and I have yet yo see one that failed.
Even an old Sunbeam Alpine we messed with that never had much pressure to start.
A couple years ago Flat Six did a complete rebuild on my 99 Porsche 911 engine. I live relatively close to lake Superior so my baby sits from October to May. FSI was/is very adamant about changing oil in the fall/bed time and not starting her until May drive time. If memory correct it has to do with keeping condensation OUT of oil. They say do not start at all during storage.
Fortunately most of my carbureted vehicles have an auto priming feature where I have to fill the carb bowl before the car will start.
This subject in general is one the internet could debate for ages, but for one dry start per season, given a high-tolerance low-mile engine – probably not an issue
If you are concerned, I agree with Sajeev’s recommendation to just pull the fuel pump relay. You may end up with a check engine light though
The truth is in Winter you need to get it to full temp and really drive it about 10-15 miles but with snow and salt many can’t do it.
Just letting it warm up at ideo is not the best way to do it but at times it is all that is possible.
Having just disassembled a 1990 LT-5 engine that had not been started for several years I can say that the bearings were not at risk, with a healthy film that would have been fine until the oil pump builds pressure. If ring wear would be a concern the boat dealers used to carry a product that would spray thru the spark plug hole that would ensure that threat was removed. Coyote motors would be much harder to perform this on VS an outboard but I’m sure you would have nothing to be concerned about if 4-6 months is the down time. I drive a 2016 GT350 every 3-5 weeks here in WY and the car has never been driven in rain/snow. If the car is readily avail thru winter I’d say drive on selective weather days and enjoy the car 12 months a year. Only concern then is the lack of traction associated with summer tires!
I’ll take this question one step further. Maybe a little too far. 🧐
It’s there a way to build oil pressure or pump oil through the galleries before even turning over the engine at all? Are there any general use vehicles with electric oil pumps. If yes, maybe they can be activated without starting the engine. Any knowledgeable responses to this?
Granted I have only looked in my quick researches for Piston Slap columns, but I have never seen an electric oil pump fitted on a production vehicle. Even the dry sump systems seem to be crank pulley driven. If you had a dry sump system with a way to apply an electric motor to the pump(s), that would be ideal.
I think the problem there is reliability. Electric pumps are just not reliable enough to be the standalone source of oil pressure. Running both pumps in series probably would not work since the stopped pump would probably not permit sufficient fluid flow for the running pump. Running them in series would lead to some complicated valving issues to prevent oil pressure from backfeeding through the out of service pump, and that valving will become the reliability issue.
Agreed, you can trust an electric pump to feed fuel to an engine, but you can’t trust it do provide lubrication.
They use pressurized tanks to pump oil in new engines today if there is no distributor.
See my post below.
@hyperv6, That’s interesting to know. How is that tank you mention, pressurized then? I need to research this a bit. Thinking a bit further, and after reading your post below, even if all the galleries are primed, we still have piston rings, valve stems/guides, etc, that still won’t be lubricated until the crankshaft/camshaft are rotated. If the mating surfaces are dry, they will still see some theoretical wear. There’s no easy way to get oil into those areas without spinning the engine at a bit of speed with good oil pressure to spray or splash onto certain surfaces.
Does anyone know how long it takes for cylinder walls to “dry” or lose most of it’s last oil coating?
I did this once after installing a rebuilt engine. I took a empty Freon tank and poured five quarts of oil into it (that was the hardest part of the job). I reinstalled the shutoff valve and hooked up a small air compressor. When the compressor started to bog down, I figured that was enough and shut the valve. Then I removed the oil pressure sensor on the engine, cobbled together a line from the tank to the oil pressure sensor port, turned the Freon tank upside down, and opened the valve. It took something like ten minutes for the air pressure to pump all of the oil into the engine.
I’m sure it would’ve worked much better if I had had proper tools. That was 1974 and I wasn’t even making minimum wage then.
BTW. Pumping the oil into the sending unit port was recommended by the Allstate (Sears) rebuilding shop.
If it’s anything like my 2018 F150, you can hold the throttle to the floor while cranking and it disables the injectors. I use it to build oil pressure after oil changes.
Wow, that is still a thing? I can do that on my 1980s EFI Fords!
Let’s sum this up. Sitting over winter is not like starting a new engine. You are not priming the pump or filling all the galleries.
If you feel the need crank it over or just start it.
Now if you have a new engine we used to put a primer shaft in the distributor hole and run a drill to prime the engine. That would put oil in the pump and all the galleries.
Today that is even more difficult as engines like a LS1 no longer have distributors. So how do you prime them.
Most of these engines have a plug in the block where you can use a tool with a tank and pressures oil into the engine. Since most of us do not have this we can just use a funnel and hose to fill the pump that is on the crank via the plug. Then pull the plugs and run the starter 10-15 seconds as not to over heat the starter.
Now note this is on new engines and can be used on engines sitting for a long time. Even then oil is still. in place and it will not destroy the engine to start it. Just watch the gauge or light and make sure it gets pressure shortly after the start.
People really over think oil. It is simple have it full use the right kind and check it regularly. No need to send it away to check it unless you are running serious racing and you are having issues losing parts.
Also use the recommended oils or the present day equivalent.
I just saw someone start an old Dodge that was laying upside down in a field for a number of of years and was half rotted away. They flipped it filled it and it fired up and ran.
When you start you are at low RPM and wear is minimal if at all.
I have made the observation where people obsess over the oil for no reason but yet many will never flush their brake fluid out. The Brake fluid is more prone to need to be changed and much more important than a running engine. As an old Auto teacher told me. No matter how good a car runs it is useless if it won’t stop.
I tend to agree with most of this. There’s just some things we are just gonna have to do when an motor vehicle is being stored. One of this things is to just turn over or run the engine on some sort of scheduled intervals to keep things good. It would be nice to be able to just plug in something similar to a engine block heater that would keep oil circulated and all critical parts primed and lubed, maybe even on an automatic schedule. Who’s going to invent this? 🙂
More important – how much will it cost?
Look at those big Bosch 80mm throttle bodies.
Living in the southwest most of my life is definitely less stressful restarting a stored car. While I did grow up in NY that was many decades ago. But one thing I found is where there is a will there’s a way.
When I stored my ’68 Wildcat for the winters back east I came up with a possible solution to what everyone here is concerned about. While parked in our single car garage that was blocked by snow, Every 4 weeks or so I’d jack up the rear drive wheels, put a couple jack stands in place, attach 2 large flexible tubes to the exhaust pipes, start the car and put it in gear and let it run for about 20 minutes at varying low speeds.
Though the suspension didn’t see much action at least the drivetrain got a little exercise and kept most of the fluids flowing…
Now that I’m retired it’s the opposite, with extreme and sustained summer temps above 115°F I store my cars in either my climate controlled garage and take them out mostly at night when the temps drop to a balmy 90°. I’m also fortunate to have a local dealer who generously allows me to display one car at a time at the showroom.
You may have your winters, but we have our summers…
My German air cooled flat four has a spring operated valve in the oil passageway from the oil pump. When cold this valve sends the oil directly to the engine, as it warms up the valve then sends the oil to the oil cooler and the worthless oil filter, then to the engine. The oil filter is kinda worthless because most of the oil bypasses the filter, hence, frequent oil changes even with today’s modern oils.
My older cars, especially air cooled, are very “loose” when first fired up after sitting for a while. They rarely start on the first crank and often require a little fuel poured down the carburetor before the floats fill up and they catch. I believe this was a good thing as it causes some oil to pressurize while cranking. I often see a little smoke until the engine heats up and clearances tighten. So, no need for “pre-oiling”.