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Piston Slap: Pressurizing Oil Before the Springtime Startup
Eric writes:
Hi, I have a 2023 Mustang 5.0 with only 5,500 miles. It sits in storage for months up here in Maine during the snow/road-salt season. I hate starting the engine without turning it over to build up some oil pressure. The Ford dealer’s service manager told me there is no way to turn engine over with it starting! Any ideas?
Sajeev answers:
Before we proceed, we have a ton of vehicle storage information here, and it might just make winter storage a lot easier for anyone reading this article.
Eric, your question brings up a bigger issue: There is no need to start the engine just to build oil pressure while in short-term car storage. Engines will not lose any power (i.e. they won’t incur internal wear/damage) from storage, as proven here. But you likely asked this question to ensure the motor is fully primed with pressurized oil before the Mustang cranks over and leaves the garage in the springtime.
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And that’s a fair question, but I doubt the problem of engine wear on startup is significant. Like most automakers, Ford insists on pretty thin oils these days. While they may drain and de-pressurize quicker, the flipside is also true: they build pressure quickly. And these oils are semi-synthetic in composition, but many folks upgrade to a fully synthetic oil for even more protection. No matter your choice, all oils have improved over time. If these petrochemical advancements aren’t easing your fears, let’s try to help you build oil pressure before your first springtime journey.
The Ford dealer may be right, as I do not have a new Ford to try out what I am proposing. While you can no longer pull the main wire from a distributor to make a car crank (no ignition), I assume pulling the correct fuse still eliminates its source of fuel. (Yes, it could be a fuel pump relay, but let’s not get bogged down in semantics.)
The fuse/relay box is under the hood, and the owner’s manual tells you which little thing to yank to kill the fuel pump (there are two for the GT500 model!). Pulling it should let you turn the motor without the risk of it firing up. Also, depending on accessibility, you could rotate the crank pulley with a breaker bar and a socket. Ultimately, though, I don’t think this is worth the effort.
But my word is never final, so what do the readers of Hagerty Media say? Sound off in the comments.
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To answer the question with a question. I don’t understand not occasionally running a running car when it’s off the road for the winter. On a relatively nice weekend back her up in the driveway, let run for a while and come up to temp, open or crack the windows and let it air out a bit. Maybe check that everything is still working as it should. You get the idea. Also less chances of any surprises when it’s time for that first spring drive. Keeping things moving and circulating always seems better than letting them sit idle for a relatively prolonged period. Or am I wrong?
You are correct that it’s better to keep things moving than letting a car sit still for long periods of time. Most cars, though, if properly prepped for winter storage, will do fine for those 3-5 or so months of hibernation.
The problem in the wintertime in colder climates is that just starting up a car and letting it idle won’t get the engine, and engine oil, up to full operating temperature, not to mention the transmission and the rest of the car. If the weather and roads allow for it, better to take it out for at least a 30 minute drive so it can get up to operating temp and get everything moving. Otherwise, let it sit.
Then, when it’s time to bring it out of winter hibernation, do what Sajeev recommends before starting the engine and going out for that first spring drive.
I don’t think you’re wrong (allowing for you presupposition). In fact, if you’re worried about the oil draining down to the point of potential damage at Spring start-up, I think you could even just start it up for a few minutes without putting it outside and getting up to temp. That will at least bring some oil pressure up once every week or two. Granted, not getting up to temp can cause some other issues, but the original question is about oiling, so…
(ps) this presupposes that your not summering in a different location for instance.
Having said that, though, I think Sajeev makes a great point about today’s oils – and even engine component metals – let alone more efficient oiling systems, pumps, etc. I really don’t much concern myself with start-up on any of my modern engines that have sat for a while.
Look 6 months is not six years. Today’s oils will leave a coating and it will start with no issues and damage.
To be honest your car runs just the same after an oil change.
That brings up a new thing. Now they say not to pre fill your filter when changing oil. The oil you put in is not filtered and even new has things that need filtered before they go into the engine. Also many filters can’t be pre bill since they are on their side. But this is another argument.
If you feel the need most new cars today will not start with the gas pedal on the floor. It is designed to clear cylinders should it flood. Just don’t crank more than 15 or 20 second at a time. You can damage a starter it it over years.
The truth is the margin of error on oil is pretty wide at idle. I have seen cars run with no oil and refilled and live long lives. If the engine was already in poor condition it may matter.
I have seen cars that were stored every year for decades and I have yet yo see one that failed.
Even an old Sunbeam Alpine we messed with that never had much pressure to start.
A couple years ago Flat Six did a complete rebuild on my 99 Porsche 911 engine. I live relatively close to lake Superior so my baby sits from October to May. FSI was/is very adamant about changing oil in the fall/bed time and not starting her until May drive time. If memory correct it has to do with keeping condensation OUT of oil. They say do not start at all during storage.
Fortunately most of my carbureted vehicles have an auto priming feature where I have to fill the carb bowl before the car will start.
This subject in general is one the internet could debate for ages, but for one dry start per season, given a high-tolerance low-mile engine – probably not an issue
If you are concerned, I agree with Sajeev’s recommendation to just pull the fuel pump relay. You may end up with a check engine light though
The truth is in Winter you need to get it to full temp and really drive it about 10-15 miles but with snow and salt many can’t do it.
Just letting it warm up at ideo is not the best way to do it but at times it is all that is possible.
Having just disassembled a 1990 LT-5 engine that had not been started for several years I can say that the bearings were not at risk, with a healthy film that would have been fine until the oil pump builds pressure. If ring wear would be a concern the boat dealers used to carry a product that would spray thru the spark plug hole that would ensure that threat was removed. Coyote motors would be much harder to perform this on VS an outboard but I’m sure you would have nothing to be concerned about if 4-6 months is the down time. I drive a 2016 GT350 every 3-5 weeks here in WY and the car has never been driven in rain/snow. If the car is readily avail thru winter I’d say drive on selective weather days and enjoy the car 12 months a year. Only concern then is the lack of traction associated with summer tires!