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Piston Slap: Mechanical and Chemical Solutions for Transmission Slippage
“Ed” from Ohio writes:
Sanjeev (I kid, I kid!), I was recently given a 186,000-mile 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9-liter Magnum V-8. Its transmission is slipping a little when reverse is engaged. The ATF is low, though it appears clean on the stick. This might be the reason for the slippage, but it also suggests a leak. (So far I have yet to see any drops of the floor from anywhere under the transmission—perhaps it’s that low).
I have a few questions: Where to start? Should I add new fluid in the hopes it solves the slip and shows me where any potential leaks might be?
I’ve read online that these transmissions have bands that can be adjusted to eliminate slip. I’m pretty technically inclined but have avoided work on automatic transmissions because, well, frankly I don’t understand how they operate. Can I do this job myself? Would it be better to take the truck to a transmission shop and have them perform a full flush?
Or is this a case of step one above, then two, then three? Thanks for any help you can provide!
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Sajeev answers:
Apparently Ed is a bit of a busy bee, as he dug into the Dodge’s 46RE gearbox just a few days later:
“I delved into the automatic yesterday, replacing the filter and the shift governor solenoid. I carefully tightened the rear band adjustment bolt down, and then backed it off as directed. The problem is that the bolt you’re supposed to torque is an 8mm square bolt, and a regular socket won’t do. I can’t say I got proper torque on it, but it does not slip anymore, but on the opposite end of the spectrum, it also doesn’t grab too hard when shifting into reverse.
I’ll have a shop check my work, and that should help further flush things anyway. But now I have a truck shifts appropriately into gear, and after a brief drive everything appears to work as intended.”

Whelp, sounds like you did the adjustment correctly! Apparently over-tightening the bands can make the transmission feel like it’s dragging or binding, but let’s hope that isn’t the case. That your drive went well should answer all your questions.
At that mileage, your truck might already have a rebuilt transmission, or perhaps that’s the original unit and it had an easy life with a lot of highway miles. No matter the backstory, you likely extended its life by adjusting the bands and doing a fluid service.
But at that mileage, if it hasn’t been subject to appropriate service intervals, sometimes fresh fluid is worse than the stuff that came out of it. Friction material from clutch packs often finds itself inside old ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and is literally the glue that holds a gearbox together. If this happens and your gearbox is officially on borrowed time, well, I have a potential solution for you. Or at least a decent band-aid to squeeze a few more miles out of it.

Consider adding a bottle of Lubegard red if the Dodge is still shifting a little funny. (Remove ATF if needed, as you never want to overfill a gearbox.) If you think anything sold in a bottle is nothing more than snake oil, well, I used to feel that way too. Put another way, I am a decades-long Lubegard customer and they’ve never given me a dime in compensation for doing so.
I only learned about this additive when the Internet told me it was the solution mentioned in a Ford technical service bulletin for harsh transmission engagements. Whatever Ford put in there back in 2006 certainly worked, to the point I used Lubeguard Red in other Fords when they started misbehaving.
Over the summer I added Lubegard Red to my uncomfortably beloved 1989 Lincoln Continental with its awful tragically flawed AXOD transaxle. This was a last-ditch effort to address the 1-2 upshift shudder and harsh reverse/drive engagement that’s so common in these wretched little gearboxes. After 100 miles of circulation within relatively new ATF (and a new filter), gear engagement is now buttery smooth and silent. The 1-2 shudder happened just once, which is significantly better.
But nothing’s truly perfect: Lubegard products seem impressive for gearboxes with minor issues that have yet to turn into fatal flaws. Just make sure to use the right product for your gearbox, especially if you have a CVT. But thanks to their “red” formulation, I no longer “shudder” to think about my transmission issues. (Famous last words, am I right?)
Have a question you’d like answered on Piston Slap? Send your queries to pistonslap@hagerty.com—give us as much detail as possible so we can help! Keep in mind this is a weekly column, so if you need an expedited answer, please tell me in your email.
I have found that using only Mopar ATF+4 for the transmission is the way to go. I worked in a Chrysler parts department for five years. I read an article that stated the Mopar fluid has additives that other fluids that claim to be ATF+4 that are not Mopar do not. I have used the Mopar fluid exclusively in my 2001 Ram 46RE trans and currently I have 340k miles on the original transmission.
It sounds like this guy is a newbie to the world of 2nd gens, That said, if he performed thorough research, he’d found out to only use ATF+4 in any Chrysler automatic. When it comes to sensors, I try to source Mopar over aftermarket.
As a master transmission rebuilder for 40 years, I can honestly say 90 percent of what is written in this article is simply wrong laced with really bad advice. Adjusting a rear band on any torque flight type transmissions past a certain point will cause rear servo failure and in some cases unreliable damage to the transmission case. As far as a 1-2 shutter on an AXOD the original service bulletin was to change the fluid and adjust the TO cable. Ford discovered quickly that was a very short term patch since the issue was a defective valve body.
My 2014 f150 with 6 speed automatic, had a squawk type noise at times and also had a rough, hard downshift from 5th gear to fourth gear when going up a hill, from day one.
I put up with it until I started to get a shudder at times from the torque converter. At 140,000 miles, my mechanic dropped the pan and replaced the trans filter, and then added the seven quarts of Ford recommended fluid that were lost during the procedure. I was adamant about NOT flushing the transmission. Ever since then, my transmission shifts flawlessly, and I lost the squawk and the shudder. I currently have 180,000 miles on transmission. Lucas has an anti-squawk/anti-shudder additive that fixes this problem as well.
Best bet is to do the updates while the pan is off.
Sonnax accumulator, heavy duty band strut, and a reman valve body ( it’s cheaper than buying the shift kit and rooster comb on these units ).
People complain about these A500 units, but they are pretty good transmissions if you do the updates to them. I typically use TransGo or Sonnax parts when doing transmission work.
Automatic transmissions operate via witchcraft and should not be trifled with and opening one up risks loosing the evil spirits contained within.
Just the kind of answer I would expect! Say some prayers to ward off the evil within!
Your statement is unclear… within the tranny – or me? 😁
This is absolutely correct and you took the words right out of my mouth.
Lube Gard is what a lot of the owners of a Ford vehicle with the 10R80 transmission use. It sounds like the solenoids in the valve body begin to stick and will solve a lot of the erratic shifting. The other problem with them is the CDF drum bushing moves out of place and when that happens you have to go into transmission internals.
Trans-X is another additive that I have had great success in older transmissions. It has been around for years. It helps with sticking valves and stops leaks.
My 94 F150, 4.9L , E40D, starting having hard shifts and one time felt like it went to neutral while on a busy highway at 55 mph. After reading multiple forum posts on Ford truck sites, I chose to replace the MLPS aka neutral safety switch, and did a fluid/filter change. It has been fine since. The truck has 155000 km or about 96,500 miles .