Piston Slap: Indirect Answers on Direct TPMS Questions
Hagerty Community Member DUB6 writes:
Dear Sajeev,
I have three vehicles with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) as standard equipment. All three (2002, 2004, and 2008 models) have the dash light on all the time, regardless of actual tire pressures. I know that the sending units are battery-powered and that they can be changed out, but I have several reasons to not do that.
- I never trusted when the light came on even when the vehicles were new—often I’d turn the car off and back on again and the light would go out, and of course, cold tires sometimes caused a light that would go out in a mile or two as they warmed up. Other times, I’d actually check the pressure with very accurate gauges and find that the light was lying to me!
- It’s a bit expensive to have a tire shop dismount all the tires, replace batteries, and then remount and balance everything just to give what I consider to be an unreliable system new life. And honestly, I had a tire guy tell me that about half of the sensors that they try to re-power are faulty and it isn’t the battery at issue anyway.
- Since I’m diligent at checking my pressures, it just seems to me to be a waste anyway—I really think I know more about my tire pressures than TPMS does.
So the question is: Can I disconnect the TPM Systems and do away with the light altogether?
Yes, I know, put a piece of electrician’s tape over it, right? But seriously, can/should it be done?
Sajeev answers:
Before we proceed, let’s level-set on the two different types of TPMS designs out there on the roads. The first is what you are discussing, with a sensor mounted inside the wheel (or within the valve stem). That’s called a Direct TPMS system, but there’s also an Indirect TPMS system that utilizes a vehicle’s ABS brakes to see if one wheel is spinning faster because of a decrease in circumference.
The Indirect TPMS system is less accurate, as it does not measure air pressure inside the tire: It cannot spot an issue if all four tires lose air at the same time, like when there’s a rapid decrease in outside temperature. But this setup is better for long-term ownership, because there are fewer parts to maintain, and there will be less E-waste to wind up in a landfill.
So let’s actually answer your question, as you likely have a Direct TPMS. You need to pick one of the following:
- Spend $200-500 on replacement wheel sensors, programming, and tire removal/installation.
- Put a “piece of electrician’s tape over it” as you wisely suggested.
- Try some form of wiring harness mod to the TPMS to trick the system into thinking everything is working correctly. If I found this particular hack for Toyota products, odds are others have figured out a decent hack for your application.
- Theoretically, the TPMS system is controlled by a modern vehicle’s Body Control Module (BCM), so finding a shop that re-programs BCMs might be in your best interest. It might be the same or more money than just replacing the sensors, but it will be a permanent fix. It never hurts to find these shops with an Internet search and drop them a line!
For those with Indirect TPMS, I recommend you do nothing aside from cleaning the ABS wheel sensor/tone ring at each corner. But if you have battery-powered, Direct TPMS, look around locally and find a tire shop to install new sensors at the lowest price. I recommend cross-shopping the big-name tire stores against independent shops in areas where the big guys fear to reside. Full-on replacement still requires legit sums of money, and it’s far from a one-time expense. (Remember that tire sensors often have a 10-year lifespan.) You can save a few dollars by avoiding a dismount/remount if you perform the TPMS install when you need new tires.
And the merit in replacing these sensors depends on each individual case. It often depends on the passion/performance/complexity associated with the vehicle (is it a 2006 Porsche 911 Turbo, or a 2006 Dodge Caliber?), the zip code where it resides (a growing area with a lot of construction and/or poor quality roads?) and the level of interest from its current owner.
Electrical tape is cheap, and wiring harnesses aren’t necessarily scary. The only wrong answer here is not keeping an eye on your tire pressure, be it with a gauge or within your gauge cluster. What say you, Hagerty Community?
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Former tire shop owner here. I’m dubious that the systems in all three of the questioner’s vehicles are operating incorrectly. The cited example of turning the vehicle off and on again to get rid of the light simply indicates that the system is waiting for the vehicle to be driven a bit, and the sensors to wake up and send the pressure/temperature data, before displaying a warning light. The questioner’s “very accurate” tire gauge is not temperature or altitude compensated, whereas many TPMS systems are, so the reading on his handheld gauge is likely less accurate than what the TPMS sensors are reporting. I’d recommend investing in an inexpensive air compressor and bumping the tire pressures up to get rid of the light.
Tire rotations become more complicated with TPMS sensors. A relearn process is required to get the positions back in order for the ‘puter. We have a 2008 Saturn Vue and I have replaced all of the TPMS sensors at least once. I buy the Delco sensors for less than $20 on eBay and have the process down to around 20 minutes now. Battery life is around 10 years.
One by one the TPMS sensors went “dark” last year on my 2015 F150. Had it since new, surprised they lasted that long. They were pretty accurate while they worked, but not gonna replace them for now until I get new tires, and may trade in the truck before that happens. For now, can live with a permanent TPMS light showing on the instrument display, which “goes away” with a bit of electrical tape.
If these sensors are original the battery is likely nearing the end hence why they say yo replace them when changing tires.
I too would recommend bumping up pressure as if it is triggered by cold tires you are too low on pressure.
The older systems can be less accurate as the modem ones as they have really improved. Indirect systems can fail with the wrong tire size as well failing wheel bearings too.
I would bump pressure and rest the system.
Some mfgs like GM make it easy to reset without tools up to 2012. Later with a cheap reset tool. Or like my Corvette you can do it from the dash.
Other MFG can require at thrip to a shop to dealer. Toyota/BMW etc.
Generally to disable these systems are more expensive and difficult vs just fixing the sensor.
I have seen people put the senders in a PCV tube to pressurized and put it in the trunk but they leak and go off over time too.
Note most systems in the early years were crude. But as time went on most are spot on to the pound. Also many have gotten less expensive. The last set of sensors I bought were $12.
But still some mfgs have not made their systems easy or more affordable. Something you may want to investigate when you buy. The new systems on cars car vary much in several areas.
Many systems today will let you even bolt the sensors on a new valve stem if you damage a stem.
I keep my cars about 10 years and never lost a sender. I have had extra wheels for my play cars and had to purchase for them. I know my Vette lost one after 20 years. So I replaced them when I put the new tires on when I bought it.
I’ve found that with my 2012, when the tire monitors say I have a low tire, I have a low tire. It may only be a pound low. One issue is make sure you are inflating to the correct pressure. As a rule of thumb, I have always inflated car tires to 32 psi, which for most of what I drive is close enough. This particular car has different pressures front and rear, with rear being 36. Although not too common these days, the other gotcha is the spare
I previously had an Audi A8 that the dealership wanted $ 1,500.00 to replace the batteries in the TPMS sensors. Having driven cars for 66 years without TPMS I reached the conclusion that they thought I mentally impaired. I ignored all the messages and waited until I put new tires on the car. Wasn’t happy, however it did make the annoying messages go away.
Just cut a longer piece of electrical tape to cover the Check Engine and TPMS lights in one shot. Problem solved.