Piston Slap: Can We Even Call It Wax Anymore?
Hagerty Community Member DUB6 writes:
Sajeev, since it’s nearing the time of year that I traditionally apply a coat of “paste wax” to my classic, cover it and put it away for a winter nap, I wonder if you (and the Community) would help me understand what types of protection there is out in today’s world, and the pros and cons of each?
For instance, carnuba used to be a big buzzword, but these days I see ceramic a lot, so obviously things have progressed in that world. Are the wash/wax combination products viable, or just a scam?
Not really looking for specific brand name recommendations, but I realize that a lot of “car wax” isn’t even made of wax! What’s the scoop, sir?
Sajeev answers:
This is a fantastic question, so sit down and enjoy the ride. The question about car wash/wax products is easy to answer: This combo works for vehicles that need basic care by owners with only a few minutes of spare time. But they generally have a low amount of protective “wax” in them, low enough for me to deem them unworthy of specialty vehicles owned by the Hagerty Community. Especially for DUB6’s delightful Pontiac GTO!
I heartily discourage car enthusiasts from using all-in-one car wash products; instead buy separate chemicals, and (generally) enjoy longer lasting shine and protection. Now to the main event: Decoding the sheer volume of wax products in a logical manner.
I had the pleasure interviewing the folks at Turtle Wax over 15 years ago, leading me to believe that waxes were just as marketing driven as potato chips. But times have changed, as we now have Doritos Dinamita Flamin’ Hot Queso chips (yes, really), but only three catch-all classifications for “wax” products. So let’s discuss this trinity of protective paint coatings in greater detail.
Waxing by Mother Nature
Traditional waxes are typically made out of carnauba wax, a naturally occurring product of the Copernicia prunifera tree. It is sourced (ethically, or perhaps not) from farmers in Brazil. As a finished product, it gives a deep, glossy shine that can even fill in small scratches. Wax lasts for weeks or months, and is quite labor intensive both on application and when buffing off. We’ve been using this stuff for decades and they are tragically antiquated, so let’s move on.
Sealing By Polymer
In stark contrast to carnauba, polymers aren’t waxes. They are a complicated concoction of science stuff (technical term) that creates a chemical sealer. It’s hard to know what’s exactly in these sealers, as most companies treat it as a proprietary blend on par with Coca-Cola’s secret recipe. But whatever they are, the end result is pretty fantastic.
Application and removal of polymer sealer is easy and it lasts for months, possibly even over a year (when indoors, speaking from experience). The shine isn’t quite as deep and glossy as carnauba, especially if the surface isn’t treated to a polish or clay bar beforehand.
Coating By Ceramics
Likely best explained as a “semi-permanent, non-metallic, inorganic protective clear coat” by these folks, ceramic coatings share more in common with the Corningware found in your kitchen than it does with wax from a carnauba tree. And much like those dishes, ceramic coatings are the most durable (lasting years, depending on vehicle storage) and provide a high shine. But they are the most expensive product, and generally lack the depth of gloss found in wax.
Adding to the expense is the need for polishing and paint correction to ensure the deepest and shiniest paint job after application of ceramic coating. Ceramics are harder to apply, in stark contrast to carnauba wax which easily fills in small imperfections and gives a deep glow to a paint job. Finally, ceramic coatings must be washed with the correct soap, and doing otherwise will significantly shorten its lifespan.
Consider The Spray-On Delivery Method?
The three classifications discussed are most commonly associated with a product you apply by hand and buff off. (Ceramic coatings technically have excess material you wipe away, if you want to split hairs.) But the same technologies are available in a spray wax, which makes things more convenient.
Ceramic spray waxes have a silicone infused (for lack of a better word) formulation that lasts for months, are generally easy to apply, and seem to be the most expensive. Polymer sprays are even easier to apply, last a couple of months, and are cheaper than ceramics. Carnauba sprays usually have the best shine/gloss, are very easy to apply, but only last a couple of weeks.
If you aren’t confused enough yet, consider that Turtle Wax has a hybrid lineup that marries the benefits of polymers and ceramics in a package more affordable than most pure ceramic options. Considering what a big deal hybrid powertrain vehicles are these days, maybe hybrid waxes are the best of all worlds?
Final Thoughts / What I Use
After speaking to the folks at Turtle Wax, it’s clear that carnauba is best for a show car that must pass muster with judges. Everyone else would likely benefit from either mid-priced polymer sealers or higher dollar ceramic coatings. The latter wasn’t popular when I met with Turtle Wax in 2009, but they have proven themselves across multiple industries. I’m just spitballing here, but consider ceramic coatings if you have an off-road vehicle, as it would clean up with a garden hose and very little else. For people in the middle of these use cases, consider polymer sealers.
Back to my recommendation: A paint correction shop near me swore by Duragloss Aquawax 952, and they let me try their stash of this polymer coating. I could not believe how easy it went on and off the car. It even acts like moisturizer to the dry, thin, single-stage paint job on the red Mercury Cougar pictured here, getting significantly glossier after three heavy coats. It works magic on glass and rubber seals, too. My gushing over this product might be indicative of many polymer coatings, but this is the best one I’ve seen for the dollar.
Speaking of value, I buy this polymer sealer by the gallon (about $55) and pour it into a spray bottle. It’s a great value, presumably because Duragloss spends very little money on advertising or product placement at retailers. I am happy with how long it lasts (3-12 months in my case) and it’s certainly nice to avoid dumping an empty, 16-fluid-ounce plastic bottle into the landfill twice a year.
As always, your mileage may vary. But now you know the three types of, ahem, waxes you have at your disposal. I have a feeling most folks need a polymer sealer, but we shall see what populates in the comments!
Have you tried the Duragloss on a newer clear coated vehicle, and if so how did it perform? I have a Toyota 4Runner that sits outside in CA full time and the clear coat seems to be failing in a few areas that get the most sun. I’m wondering if this product, or any, would halt that degradation if used more often than I’ve done in the past…
Good question. I have a 2002 Dodge p/u and a 2004 4Runner with the same issues. But I’m not inclined to expend a lot of cost or energy for a ranch truck. The Toyota, though, is my wife’s daily driver. She likes me to keep it in almost the same state of clean/shine as the Pontiac!
I have used Duragloss on my 2011 Ranger almost exclusively since I bought it new, it sits outside 90% of the time, and its clearcoat is perfect. So I do recommend it.
I would love to try the Duragloss Aquawax 952 but I searched high and low online and cannot find any available, not even on Amazon Prime! Do you know if any of the national auto supply stores carry it?
Advance used to sell it. I knew it was real good when the guy behind the counter nearly jumped out of his spot when I mentioned it. (Not that I needed anyone to sell it to me.)
Anyway, I saw the small bottle on not-prime Amazon by googling it, but the gallon is definitely available on their website: https://www.duragloss.com/product/duragloss-aw-aquawax/
Is this what you’re looking for? https://www.duragloss.com/product/duragloss-aw-aquawax/
It seems that they offer 951 in a spray bottle and 952 in a gallon jug. Are they the same product or…?
I just received my gallon of 952 ordered off Amazon about a week ago. You might try looking there again.
Haven’t tried it yet as we are starting the rapid descent into or NW Montana winter.
As of Dec12 it is not even listed on Amazon. Help! can you send me the URL where it is shown
You have to get it directly from the manufacturer:
https://www.duragloss.com/product/duragloss-aw-aquawax/
In 93 I bought a brand-new Bronco. Burgundy and white. After 2 years the burgundy became chalky and dull looking. The white still looked new. (hmm?), Fast forward to 2003, I bought a new solid white Ranger Edge. 9 years of SW Florida sun, and then12 years in Virginia, (hot summers and cold winters) the white paint still looks new after a wash job. No clear coat peeling, no fading of any kind. In all those years I waxed it twice. If you want to have a Ford, get a white one.
What is Scotty Kilmer’s policy on waxing a car?
Rev up your engines and ring that bell to find out! 🤩
This is the correct answer.
This is my last video. Probably, maybe.
Back in my day you had to wax your car three times a day, but with a modern car you don’t need to do that, just say wax while standing next to the car and that should last you for two or so decades. That is what Scotty would say.
There are waxes, Polymers and now ceramics.
Wax is the traditional product snd foes a hood job but last maybe 3 month us depending on how often you was and exposer to the elements.
The polymers last a bit longer and are loaded with silicon.
Then Ceramic that last longer do, cost more and can be more difficult to apply.
Now once you get past the basics here these terms can go six ways to Sunday depending on the products.
Case in point everything says Ceramic but only the expensive high end products are true ceramics. Anyone can add ceramics to their product but few tell just how much content. In other words you get what you pay for.
Also with all these you need to polish before you seal with these three products unless you use a cleaner wax. These are low but all in one deals. Cheap and not the best.
If you only wax once a year and it is a very good car with good paint a true Ceramic product professionally applied is your best bet. Then use the proper was products yo preserve it.
Paint care is not just a once a year one product deal. Many treat it test way and don’t realize how damaged the paint it hill too late.
Much of this depends on what your goal is. Judt yo get the water to bead or yo protect and preserve the paint.
I would recommend joining detailing forums. Meguires, Chemical Guys and others. An help you up your fame and even increase the value of you vehicle.
My Pontiac is mostly 39 year old GM paint and I took a best paint award at a large Pontiac even. It was even black paint. So good care pays. I also find it good exercise.
Hyperv6……..PLEASE turn back on your spell check!! Almost unreadable.
No need to read it, he’s just paraphrasing the article in his unique “style”.
Interesting article with some good advice. However, the typos were so obvious and then hilarious that I found myself reading to spot the typos (not hard to do) and thus having to re-read the article to absorb the information.
The only thing I might add is that easier to use ,even if of like or similar quality, does have a a drawback . Being able to work faster also means you might miss something that if you had to go more slowly you wouldn’t have. A small scratch or chip in this instance might elude you. Don’t get me wrong I’m just as much in favor of those things that make the job easier. Yet with some projects I’d rather use hand tools even if getting out the power,as tempting as it is,would speed the plow. That self imposed discipline forces you to go slow and concentrate. In my case I’m more likely to pay attention to the little details. Sometimes there’s just no replacement for elbow grease.
What saves time is to do this more than once a year. If you let tge condition degrade much then it takes hours vs an hour to return to prime condition.
In the end it is all about what you are after. Do you wasn’t good as new or just beading water. No right or wrong here just what you want to accomplish.
Anything is better than nothing which most do.
Thanks, Sajeev, for the good info. Despite my glaring butchery in the spelling department, which you “glossed over” quite nicely (see what I did there?)…thanks for not “rubbing it in”!
I hadn’t seen your 2009 article, but it was quite interesting – especially since I grew up using Turtle Wax and have a vintage metal Tommy (turtle, not rock opera) sign in my shop area.
I’ve already gleaned (oh how I wish I could use “gleemed” here) some from the comments and look forward to more from my esteemed fellow drivers.
I hope I’ve covered enough puns that I’ll discourage Gary Bechtold from sending in another groaner, but probably not 😆.
Oh, and thanks for the kind reference to the red Poncho in my garage, but full disclosure to newer readers: it’s not a true 242 car (that’ll get the Google going).
Everyone looks better after a quick “spit ‘n polish!”
DUB8, that won’t stir true Pontiac lovers. We might want to see pictures of it though!!!
On the “old” version of this site, there were quite a few photos of it, but we don’t have an option of adding pics on this newer iteration.
I’ve been detailing and painting for a while, and have become interested in the ceramics. My oldest put me onto a ceramic spraywax for my CCSB Duramax, which lives outside due to size. It seems to work well, and stays slick for a couple months at a shot. The truck has been 3-stage polished, and all I do is spray it down after a wash and it looks great. The white means I don’t have to worry about my biggest complaint with the ceramics, streaking.
Now, the jet black 67 GMC gets Griots Best of show if I’m in a hurry, and Meguiars Gold Class paste applied with a DA polisher when I’m prepping for a show. Looks like a Steinway after. The big trick is the Eagle One quick detailer, but of course, as soon as I found it, they went under. I have 5 bottles left. It gets stripped, run down with Meguiars 2 and 9, and rewaxed every winter. Just a nice afternoon blasting 70’s rock and sipping beer in the heated shop.
May all your toys stay shiny side up, my friends.
Carnauba, Then, now, and forever. “Tragically antiquated” is the whole point. I am in no rush when I wax my 1995 Corvette coupe.
Great information, thanks.
Lucas Slick Mist works really well
I am surprised no one has mentioned Collinite 845 yet – my long time favourite for a twice-a-year wax following either a light polish or a more laborious 2-step cut and polish. Best applied with a random orbital polisher, of course.
For good measure you can ‘touch up’ a nice sealant wax like 845 with a product like Optimum Hyper Seal which is a fairly easy to use spray on sealant that layers over most waxes and further enhances the hydrophobic abilities
The Klasse line of products is also a popular wax/sealant combo (High Gloss Sealant Glaze and All-In-One)
Griots Garage also has a fantastic lineup of polishes, waxes, sealants, etc
Easy to go down a rabbit hole!
I start with Meguiars Diamond Coat (sp?) to take out the scratches then Carnuba. All with a DA. The black on the 08 Stang was painted well to begin with (no GM orange peel) so it really shines deep. Use Meguiars Cleaner Wax on lesser/everyday vehicles, also with DA.
Thanks for the class Sajeev!
Sorry, but what is DA..?
Now we could sure use an article on how to clean up the engine bay …. especially for some classic models that haven’t been cleaned in a while. All that dust … and a little bit of oil ….
check out chris fix on youtube. i’m sure there’s others, maybe better too, but his engine cleaning/detail tutorial is decent.
My dad (1910-2014) wasn’t a car enthusiast, but he always kept his vehicles in a well maintained condition. He periodically wiped his engine and engine compartment with a kerosene soaked rag.
Now, about those clear plastic seat covers,..
When I buy a brand new car it goes straight to the paint correction and ceramic coating shop and the same for any collectibles
I appreciate someone tackling this topic. It’s a tough one with a lot of views and strong feelings. The main thing is that you enjoy the process and its fun.
My daily cars have a solid ceramic coating which is professionally installed. It’s pretty amazing and weekly washes are easy and fast. I do love the foam canon!
When washing / cleaning my classis cars during the driving season I follow this 3 set process. 1. Cleaned with Speed shine, 2. Clayed with Speed shine, 3. Finished with Best of Show Detailer.
Deeper dives with machine correction and polish are a once a year thing for me over the fall / winter.
Being drivers club member and have enjoyed the Griot’s garage discount. Griot’s has been getting my loins share of cleaning supply the past few years.
Well timed article!
Do you use a loin cloth when polishing?
Spellcheck fails when both loin and lion are words.
I’m very particular (some say anal) about my vehicles and became interested in ceramic coatings a few years ago. After doing some research I tried Avalon King Armor Shield IX on my then-new 2019 Ford F350. This vehicle had significant orange peel on all 4 passenger doors from the factory. It was a laborious project starting with a decontamination wash followed by thorough paint correction through polishing with a DA buffer and Chemical Guys Optical Grade chemicals, followed by wipe-down with 85% isopropyl alcohol to remove any traces of silicone and other contaminants, and finally 3 layers of Avalon King ceramic. All in all was a 2-1/2 day job, but something I enjoy and I’m retired so have the time. The result was fantastic shine and gloss that lasted 3 years (always garaged and hand-washed with ph-neutral automotive soap). Since then I’ve recoated the pick-up and employed the same process on a 1968 LeMans and 1974 Ranchero, both with nice 2-stage paint jobs. I couldn’t be happier with the results on all of them.
I forgot an important step: clay bar. This needs to be done after decontamination wash and before polish/paint correction to have a completely clean paint surface.