Classic Car Tires: Everything You Need to Know
There’s a certain “chef’s kiss” feeling when the details on a car are just right. Whether you’ve spotted them at a show, a local cruise-in, or an online listing, period-style tires on a vintage car look great—and they can make a big difference in how an old vehicle drives. Modern tires made specifically for classic cars are even better than the originals.
The terms “modern” and “classic car” may seem incongruous when describing this type of tire, but in reality, they’re a perfect descriptor. A modern classic car tire looks like what might have been mounted to a car’s wheels from the factory when it was new, but they’re manufactured with up-to-date rubber compounds and construction designed to last a long time, hold up to major temperature variations, and provide good traction on a variety of surfaces. These are not your typical reproduction parts.
Here’s what you need to know about this special kind of tire.
Classic Car Tire Basics: What Makes Them Different?
The wheels on many postwar cars can handle standard passenger car tires, even if their sizing isn’t quite the same as what the manufacturer originally specified. For instance, the original tire size on a 1968 BMW 2002 is listed as “165 SR 13” in the owner’s manual; if you roll down to your local big-box tire shop with those numbers, they’ll probably steer you toward the present-day equivalent, approximately a 185/70R-13 tire. Major retailer Tire Rack offers a few tires in that size, ranging from about $72 to upward of $330 per corner. That’s a massive price span, and it might seem tempting to buy four of the cheapest for less than one of the most expensive.
The compound and tread on the cheapest tire in this situation is meant for a modern compact car, like a Toyota Corolla, while the big-buck ones have been designed for a vintage car. They’re both round and black, but that’s about where the similarities end.
Compared to today’s tires, classic car tires have a uniquely shaped carcass—the industry term for the tire’s profile—that results in a smaller contact patch with the pavement below. A thinner patch of rubber on the ground isn’t a boon for traction, but it does make the car easier to turn if the steering system is unassisted. The rounded carcass of a tire meant for a classic car also rolls over differently in hard cornering, which results in handling more akin to what the automaker originally intended.
These tires are also made from modern compounds that are more durable and heat-resistant than what tire manufacturers were able to use in period. They’ll last far longer than the originals, and they’ll provide better traction. Manufacturers assemble them to quality standards simply unachievable back when your car was brand new.
“Using a high-quality, full-silica tread compound, we ensure an ideal blend of heritage styling with modern safety and handling performance,” says Patrick Meeley, a representative for Dutch manufacturer Vredestein, which has a wide lineup of classic car tires. “Every aspect of the tread and compound works together seamlessly to achieve this balance.”
Classic car tires also have a tread pattern that looks period-correct. Put tires intended for a Corolla on the BMW 2002 example above and they just won’t look right.
Bias-Ply vs. Bias-Ply Look vs. Radial Tires
Beginning in the late 1960s and continuing into the early 1980s, automakers phased out bias-ply tires in favor of long-lasting radial tires. If you have a classic car that was built before the phase-out, you may want to weigh the advantages of each construction type.
Bias-ply tires have lots of rubber and soft sidewalls that result in a pillowy ride. However, they give up quickly in hard cornering, tend to make the steering wander at speed, and don’t last very long. Unless you’re willing to live with these major compromises in pursuit of a wholly authentic vintage driving experience, or the only movement your car does is from the trailer to the concours field, you should probably stick with radial tires.
“[Bias-ply] tires replicate the look, feel, and driving characteristics of the original period-correct tires, making them ideal for car shows, Concours events, and hot rods where maintaining historical accuracy is essential,” Coker Tire representative Matthew Millsaps explains.
Then there are bias-ply look tires—modern-construction tires designed for cars from the mid-1970s or earlier that, despite authentic appearances, are radials. They feature an “R” in the tire size descriptor, indicating as such.
“They’re simply the best of both worlds,” Millsaps said.
Shopping For Classic Car Tires
Enthusiasts have a lot more tire choices today for a period-style tire than even a decade ago. A number of tire manufacturers offer classic lines, including Dunlop, Michelin, Pirelli, and Vredestein. Others, like BFGoodrich and Firestone, have licensed their designs to Coker Tire.
Not all classic tires are created equal. Michelin’s Pilot Exalto PE2 tire, for instance, was developed in the early 2000s when the manufacturer watched wheel sizes grow and discovered that owners of 1980s and 1990s “modern classics” with tires sized between 13 and 16 inches had few options. The Exalto range doesn’t emulate a classic tread design, though the small sizes make it an appealing choice for sports cars.
Some choices come down to personal—or period—preferences, like white sidewall lettering (commonly called OWL, or outline white lettering), whitewalls, or Vogues with gold stripes. There’s nothing like Firestone Wide O Oval lettering for a 1977 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, after all. Such decisions may be very easy to make.
A handful of automakers—Porsche and Mazda, in particular—make it easy. They have partnered with tire manufacturers to develop rubber specifically intended for their vehicles. Tires vetted by Porsche have an “N” marking on them, which major tire retailers will also typically call out. The automaker’s classic division, Porsche Classic, even maintains a tire approval list, though you may want to contact a dealer for the latest iteration.
Ultimately, you should talk to an expert before ordering tires. Coker, Tire Rack, and other specialty retailers have car enthusiasts on staff who can help steer you in the right direction.
“We like to talk cars,” Millsaps says. “And tires.”
Why You Might Not Want Classic Car Tires
Beyond price considerations, there are a few reasons why tires designed for a modern car might be a better fit.
Suppose you plan to use your car for track days. In that case, you may benefit from a dedicated performance tire with a wide contact patch and a rubber compound specifically meant for the heat generated by repeated, grueling use. Of course, that’s all thrown out the window if your car competes in vintage road racing, where period-style tires are a must-have.
Beware, however, that a modern-style tire will wear out your car’s suspension components and wheels in ways you might not expect. That wide contact patch and stiff sidewall that contribute to so much grip will stress the vehicle’s components beyond what its designers intended. You may wind up replacing suspension parts and wheels earlier than expected.
“This can make the ride harsher and reduce the ‘vintage’ driving experience, such as the softer, more forgiving ride and looser handling dynamics some classic cars are known for,” noted Millsaps.
Speaking of wheels, your resto-modded muscle car that rides on 18-inchers will need modern-design tires. Then again, if you’re putting big wheels on your old car, you’re probably not prioritizing ride quality, anyway.
It’s all a matter of preference, but there are more tire choices than ever to create the driving experience, look, and authenticity enthusiasts want. Happy driving!
There are too few options for thin redline and thin whitewall tires, and the ones that do exist are insanely expensive. In addition, modern black sidewall tires are littered with logos and designs that don’t look attractive. A smooth sidewall would be greatly appreciated. All at a reasonable price, of course.
When I was in my full-size Cadillac phase, I used to put light truck tires on them
A question framed from the other direction—old style tires for a modern car.
Wife LOVES her ‘08 Miata! But she’s an old lady and drives like one. What’s highest aspect ratio and hardest rubber that will fit in the wheel wells.
Tired(!) of low profile gumball tires that ride choppy and wear out quick.
Advice?
Talk to the guys at Discount Tire and/or Tire Rack. Ask for their expert on this issue. They’ll help you.
When you talk about Classic tires you have to include inner tubes. Most rims prior to mid 60s were not made for tubeless tires. The engineering included tubes. Yes a lot of tubeless tires have been mounted on the old rims. No problem there, I did that for forty plus years, however, the place where I purchased the current set of Michelin XASs insisted that since my rims were not made for tubeless tires that they install tubes as they were designed for. I felt an immediate positive improvement in driving. It could be because of the new tires, however, I know the authenticity police are happy.
Vredestein needs to make 195/65r14s again. Shocked they carry so many specs for euro cars but not that size.
The Vredestein are what works for my classic Alfa- great tires at speed- predictable and have a smooth transition for traction to sliding- easy to keep the car in a bit of an oversteer and play with the wheel- Chris Harris style- keep replacing with the Vredestein with more of the same for that reason.
That’s a 1971 Trans Am, not a 1977!
Very good article. I agree on all points and have a few of my own. I own a mobile tire company in Los Angeles and we do a lot of classic cars, partially because I’m a classic car guy with a fleet of Hagerty-insured classics. Here’s what I use:
1919 Ford Model T: Wards Riverside 30×3.5-21. All tires for these are now manufactured in SE Asia, so whether you want treadless white, grey, ‘non-skid’ tread blocks, etc you’re getting effectively the same carcass. For me the Wards look right and work well. You mount these at home with tubes and flaps like a bike tire.
1954 MGTF: Vredestein Sprint Classic 155HR15. Great tire. Looks right, drives right. Killer option. You can run a 155/80R15 (effectively the same size) which is a common Beetle OE-ish sizing, and you can get eg. BFG Radial TA (great tire), but I like the Vred here as the tread edge is more round, as original (good point made in the article there).
1965 Mustang 289 14″: If you’re going for concours original look, there are a variety of interesting options. I go half way, with what I consider a modern tire but the correct period upgrade: BFG Radial T/A with a stagger: 245 rear 225 front. Still a great tire, still made by BFG (this is not true of all older models like, for example, the Silverton that you might want for your original-spec 50s/60s sedans). White letters out. Looks right, drives great. Only option I would consider is letters in, although Cooper Cobras and Firestone are interesting options.
1967 MGB 14″ wires: Vredestein Sprint Classic again, here in 165HR14. Lots of people use a more modern (and available) 175-width radial, but you lose the light steering and balance (as the article notes). I’ve had five of these cars on all manner of tires and this is the best for me.
1967 MG Midget 13″ wires: Getting difficult in this size now. I run a Uniroyal Tiger Paw Touring AS in 145/80-13 but I believe this NLA. Vredestein has a non-vintage option in this size (Quatrac) but other than that everything I now show is tier-5 stuff I recommend you avoid. Again, I like this original width, especially on the wires that are not really that strong for lateral loads. But if you put on a wider Minilite or steelie you have a range of fairly sticky 13″ quasi-race tires. Just beware the glass transition point of those tires – they’re not for use at low temps and a car this light doesn’t build temperature in the tire very well.
1972 Jaguar E-type OTS manual, steel. So here I depart a little from classic tires. You can get both the Vredestein and Michelin XVS in the original 185R15 size, but given the car’s performance and weight, this car was very under-tired in period. I use BFG Radial TA in 215/70R15. White letters in, in this case, although I have run them out for that period Englishman-in-California look.
1977 Ford F-150 SuperCab long: I actually got this truck on the original tires, 235/70-15, which look like car tires now. I use BFGoodrich (see a trend?) All-Terrain TA KO2 in 31×10.5-15, letters out. This is a really balanced look for me, and I like that 1977 was right around the time of the introduction of the BFG All-Terrain so this is period-correct for me. However the period is coming to a close: the replacement KO3 isn’t coming in 15″ sizing, so if you’re on original wheels you’ll have to look to another brand. I’m stocking up.
1980 Porsche 928 (euro, auto) 15″ wheels. I love this version of the 928 as it captures the period GT character of the car, especially with the auto. So I use 15″ phone dials with original 215/60-15 sizing. I also have 16″ saucers with 225/55-16 which opens you up to a world of great UHP tires (I use Micheiln PSAS), but on the 15″ I have BFG Advantage TA. Now NLA. In this size I would now use Yokohama AVID Touring. Best tire in the size, which is a quirky one.
1982 Porsche 930 (grey market). Another car originally under-tired. Stagger is original but on 16×7 front and 16×8 rear I use 225/50-16 front (would be original on the rear) and 245/45-16 rear (although sometimes 245/50-16). This is getting really tricky. The car can over-perform almost any tire. I have BFG R1 slicks on one set of wheels but they’ve aged out. For street I use Fuchs with BFG Comp2+ (with the 50-series rear). If I were to go down to 205/55-16 fronts and 245/45-16 rears, I think the Yoko A008P is a fun period option – one of the original zany performance tires from the 80s and again available.
2005 Pontiac GTO: This is actually my tire test car, and has a variety of rims and tires at any given time. At the moment left front is Michelin CrossClimate2 and right is Vredestein Quatrac Pro, testing wear on these all-weather tires over a year. Rears are Michelin PS AS 3+, still a great tire but not as all-weather as the fronts. don’t try this at home, mixing tires, and especially with winter traction different on the two axles.
And to throw in a modern one: 2013 VW GTI. I try a lot of tires on this car too. Currently on pre-production BFGoodrich Phenom T/A. Watch for this tire, coming out this year. It’s going to be awesome on a variety of euro and tuner fitments. Looks great, performs great, and (a surprise to me) very tractable and pretty quiet.
That’s more than I intended to write, but I’m a tire geek. If you want to geek out or get a recommendation, look up ZipTire in Los Angeles and my guys will help out.
Oh – most important thing with classic car tires (and a point not made in the article that honestly should have been): because people often don’t drive many miles or very hard, classic tires usually age out before they wear out. My rule of thumb is never more than ten years for any classic, and no more than 6 years for any car that really uses the tires. UV radiation makes it worse, but once they add sulphur to the natural rubber to vulcanize and cure the tire, the process NEVER stops. All tires are actively turning to hockey pucks every day. I get guys at car shows showing me their OE tires with date-codes in the 1990s and worse. Don’t be that guy. Those aren’t working right any more.
ACP
While I’m no expert in the field I’ve always thought those people who mount low profile ( rubber band on rim ) tires on a car with an old style suspension are just asking for trouble. The beating it puts on those parts as you mentioned. Besides that there’s also the real world road conditions to be considered. A set of high performance tires for a modern car might work on a freshly paved piece of asphalt on an older vehicle but on worn less than perfect surfaces? It would seem the effect would be the opposite. Not compliant enough. So much the same as a race tuner will calibrate suspension settings for different condition tracks the same general rule of thumb would apply. Going down one in sidewall is probably just fine however if taken too far. Not to mention the change in speedometer readings even when going from an old school 75 to a 70. Where did I see that Your Observed Speed sign?
Personally, I don’t believe in fitting ‘modern’ radial tires on classic cars originally equipped with bias-ply rubber. Naturally, performance is improved but part of the joy of owning a vintage car is how rustic it feels while driving compared to modern mobiles. If you’re willing to upgrade the tires, you might as well swap the anti-roll bars, dampers, exhaust system, and other systems to ‘modernize’ your ride. I prefer the old feel on my old cars.