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S 2 : Ep 38

Enjoy Season 2 stories, opinion, and features from across the car world - Hagerty Media

Most tools in a DIY garage are permanent items. Your socket set and floor jack are not in need of replacement after every few uses. However, if you are tackling projects regularly, you probably have a toolset that comes in cans, jugs, and tubs. All those chemicals and fluids that you need to properly work on your projects are certainly tools, and we put together a list of the essential 12 that any at-home DIY enthusiast should keep around.

Tub of chassis grease

Not everything that needs grease has a grease zerk conveniently attached to it. Whether hand packing wheel bearings or ensuring that the suspension bushing being installed will not squeak, a tub of simple chassis grease is the solution to you problem. If you want a slightly cleaner method of grease distribution, grab a couple acid brushes from your local hardware store and zip-tie a small chunk of plastic hose to the side of the container to hold one. This allows you to keep the lid sealed (and thus the grease clean) while also being able to quickly wipe some grease onto a part when needed.

Medium strength threadlocker

Even good vibrations in your project car are working against you. Threadlocker will help keep everything together for many years. It also helps keep corrosion at bay. There are options for strong and strongest, but don’t get carried away. The blue Loctite is plenty for most projects. If you are struggling to remove a bolt that you know you threadlocked during assembly, heat is your friend. Just keep that in mind.

Dielectric grease

Bolts are not the only place where corrosion will ruin your day. Electrical connections need to be clean to work properly and a small dab of dielectric grease not only helps keep corrosion out of electrical connections but also makes them easier to connect and disconnect–especially Weather Pack connectors.

WD-40 and a penetrating oil

That’s right, the story here is 12 chemicals you need, but there are 13 on the list. That is because this is the point where we talk about the difference between WD-40 and penetrating oil like an Aerokroil or PB Blaster. The WD in WD-40 stands for water displacing, and that is what it is best at. It is also a very light lubricating oil, but does not have the formulation to creep in and help break free corroded hardware. Have one of each in your stash—but don’t try and use one when the other is what you need.

Starting fluid

This is a controversial one, so let’s get this out of the way right away: yes, starting fluid is hard on engines. It should be used sparingly. For some tasks though, starting fluid is the perfect solution. My most common use is to find vacuum leaks, as starting fluid is strong enough that even small amounts pulled in will raise the idle of a running engine slightly. It also evaporates quickly and typically does not leave residue or damage on painted surfaces the way carburetor or brake cleaner can when used in the same way. Also, not all carb and brake cleaners are flammable these days.

White lithium grease

For door handles, dash parts, and hinges, there is nothing better than white lithium grease. It’s sticky enough to stay in place and works well when the temperatures drop. This is also plastic safe in most cases so you don’t need to worry about plastic clips that keep door mechanisms together or a little overspray under your dashboard when lubing a pedal pivot.

Carburetor cleaner

Chances are if you own a carburetor, at some point you will have to clean it. Aerosol carb cleaner is the easiest way to blast out deposits and junk that accumulates. It is also nice to be able to spray through the passages in the carb to know they are clear.

Wax and grease remover

This is one that many folks ignore but once you have it around you find yourself using it more and it will make your projects better. If you have sanded down a part or just cleaned something up that you want to put a fresh coat of paint on, even a quick wipe down with a good wax and grease remover will leave a surface ready for paint to adhere to. Brake or carb clean can leave deposits or not leave the surface clean enough for good paint adhesion.

Brake cleaner

It might smell and look like carb clean, but we promise the formula inside the can is different. For cutting that skim coat of grease and grime off suspension parts and also making sure rotors or brake drums are not contaminated before bedding in there isn’t a better product. Wear eye protection when spraying though. That burn of getting this stuff in your eye is no fun. It’s mostly acetone, but depending on where you live, chlorinated brake cleaner is also available. When heated, that chlorinated liquid can turn into poisonous phosgene gas, so never use brake cleaner to prep metal for welding.

Engine degreaser

For heavy grime deposits, a spray on/rinse off degreaser is the way to go. Have this handy so that when you roll under your project and think “wow, this is really grimy” you can clean it up before starting your project and thus are keeping the grit and nasty outside rather than spraying it inside something delicate. We use this on just about every rear differential we tear into.

Glass cleaner

Driving your car is no fun if you can’t see through the windshield. We have found a non-ammonia glass cleaner to be easiest to use and gets the best result. You mileage may vary, but at least you will be able to see the road as those miles go by.

Interior cleaner

We’ve done it, you’ve probably done it: in the excitement of wrapping up that DIY project that involved rolling around on the shop floor all weekend, you turn the key and hear the engine start and go for a short drive. Now your interior is filled with everything that was on the shop floor that stuck to the back of your shirt and seat of your pants. Keeping your interior clean not only looks better, but makes it last longer too. Having a quick spray bottle of interior cleaner makes it easy to quickly wipe down everything whenever it’s needed.

That is our list of 12 (actually 13) chemicals every DIY enthusiast needs in their garage. Think we missed one? Leave it in the comments below. Also, be sure to subscribe to the Hagerty YouTube channel for more great DIY content.

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Keeping your car in peak running condition is a good idea for a multitude of reasons. A basic tune-up can expose critical information about parts of your engine that are otherwise difficult to inspect. Spark plugs are a critical part of any tune-up and a great entry-level DIY project. Kyle Smith is here with all the tips you need to swap out your engine’s spark plugs.

The tools

While any socket that fits the spark plug on your engine will work, a dedicated spark-plug socket has two convenient features that a standard socket doesn’t: a small piece of rubber to hold the plugs in place and thinner walls to fit in tighter spaces. Many basic mechanics toolsets include the two most-common spark-plug sizes but, in a pinch, you can add a piece of appropriately-sized rubber hose inside a standard deep socket.

Another tool we’d recommend is a short chunk of fuel hose that fits over the ceramic of your plugs. This is a great thing to have nearby for starting the threads when installing the new plugs. Sure, you could use the socket you have on hand, but we’ve found that approach increases the likelihood of cross-threading or otherwise damaging the threads of the cylinder head. Those threads are precarious to repair with the engine still assembled, so an ounce of prevention is worth the pound of cure.

The process

Let’s not make this job more complicated than it is: Unthread the old plugs and thread in the new ones. Simple, right? Yes, but a few tips can make the process even easier. Label the spark-plug wires before you pull them from the plugs, or swap them out one at a time to avoid crossing the ignition wires. Also, take the time to clean any debris from the base of the spark plugs before removing them. This precaution keeps any grit or other nastiness from falling into the combustion chamber.

Stop to learn

The most important step in a spark-plug swap is to stop and inspect the old plugs; their condition will yield a surprising amount of information about your engine’s health. Is there excessive oil buildup, heavy wear on the ground strap or electrode, or checking on the insulator? Now may be the time to dive into the root cause. If you are lucky, the old plugs will have a nice toasted marshmallow color on the insulator and no extreme wear on the ground strap or electrode.

Changing spark plugs is a simple DIY project that will keep your beloved car cruising happily for years to come, so what are you waiting for? Get out your tools and tackle this quick job. While you’re in a “get ‘er done” mood, be sure to subscribe to the Hagerty YouTube channel to never miss a new video.

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Pro driver Parker Kligerman explores what makes the Jaguar XK120 an icon and details what you need to know about buying, owning, and loving this great sports car.

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The humble spark plug is well over a century old, but its technology and function have remained unchanged. Learning how a spark plug works and what it can tell you about your engine is critical, even in the age of highly intelligent, computer-controlled engines. From heat range to material, we are here to share what you should know about these hardworking components.

Construction

From the outside, a spark plug appears very simple and, in a few ways, it is. The top of the plug is a cap, and the spark-plug wire attaches to it. The cap also connects to the electrodes that run through the center of the ceramic porcelain insulator. The final piece is the threaded case that holds everything and creates the grounding connection. The electrode pokes out the base of the plug in line with a small ground strap, thus providing a clear path for the high-voltage arc to follow and ignite the fuel and air mixture in the cylinder.

We can’t talk about spark plug construction without mentioning heat ranges. The basic thing to keep in mind here is that a “colder” plug snaps off the same spark energy as a “hotter” plug. Heat ranges have nothing to do with energy and everything to do with keeping the plug clean. Ideal operating temperature for a spark plug is between 900 and 1500 degrees Fahrenheit. This is hot enough that the porcelain ceramic that surrounds the electrode tip in the combustion chamber can burn off any contaminants or combustion byproducts that stick to it.

A colder plug has more insulation and therefore transfers more heat away from the electrode into the cylinder head or engine block. Too cold, and the contaminants build up and foul the plug; too hot, and the porcelain will crack and degrade.

Types

There are four main types of plug construction: copper, platinum, double platinum, and iridium. Each step up brings a price increase, but also greater durability and spark energy. The shape of each is unique and, if you’re pulling apart an unknown engine, can help you identify which kind of plug you’re looking at. The shape of the electrode is the most obvious tell; to differentiate between a platinum and a double platinum plug, look for the disc on the ground strap.

There are also two types of sealing mechanisms: a crush gasket and a conical seat. The crush gasket is the most common and the simplest. The conical seat is reasonably rare and should only be used with cylinder heads that have been cut with a matching seat; if you’re used to crush gaskets, you may find the torque specification for conical-seat plugs surprisingly low.

Reading

A spark plug can tell you a lot about the running condition of an engine. A buildup of oil or other contaminants can cause a plug to foul and stop firing, while a worn-out plug can misfire after the electrode and ground strap are consumed over many hours of use. Pulling the spark plugs is a simple task on most engines, so even if the engine seems to be running normally, a quick check won’t hurt.

The spark plug is a critical piece in a standard non-compression ignition engine. Understanding this humble component goes a long way to helping you understand how to keep your engine in top shape or, if you’re looking for more power, to tweak its performance. There are more information-packed DIY videos coming, so be sure to subscribe to the Hagerty YouTube channel to never miss an installment.

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Hagerty’s Editor-at-Large Sam Smith explores what makes the first-generation Ford Bronco such a beloved classic and details what you need to know about buying, owning, and loving this iconic SUV.

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Hagerty’s Editor-at-Large Sam Smith explores what makes the 1970 Datsun 240Z such a beloved classic and details what you need to know about buying, owning, and loving this great sports car.

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There are multiple levels of garage DIYer, and the first level-up for many enthusiasts is fabrication. Once someone graduates from the game of simply buying and installing parts to making their own, a whole world opens. Fabrication seems like magic—and at times it comes close—but a great entry point is cutting gaskets. Kyle Smith takes you through the process in this week’s Hagerty DIY.

Materials

Gaskets are a great start for dipping one’s proverbial toes into fabrication for a few reasons. To begin with, materials are fairly cheap, simple to store, and easy to manipulate. Plus, you don’t need to buy any special tools or learn some crazy skill. The process is very close to art projects you did in grade school, except that these art projects keep your beloved vintage ride on the road.

Start by dropping into your friendly local-area parts store and grabbing a gasket-making kit. These are often readily available and include 3–5 different materials. From cork rubber to rubber cellulose, each has specific usages and tolerances for various automotive chemicals and thus makes selection easy for your particular project.

The process

The reasons why you might need to make your own gaskets range widely. Maybe you don’t have the time to order a die-cut gasket, the gasket no longer being made in mass quantities, or you are mating two parts in such fashion that a pre-made gasket just won’t work. As long as you have the part or the old, torn gasket, you have your template.

The easiest way to cut your gasket accurately is to use a small hammer to gently tap around the edge of the part on which you need to fit the gasket. The edge of the part will act as a cutter and yield the perfect shape. Even if the edge is not able to slice through the material, it will leave a perfect indention that you can then use as a line to follow with a razor blade or X-Acto knife.

The next option is to trace your part and then cut the gasket. This method can be quite accurate, but it leaves more room for error. Remember, it is always easier to remove more material, but it’s near-impossible to add it back. Cut the gasket a bit big the first time and then trim it to the perfect size.

One of the most difficult processes when making gaskets is cutting holes for bolt pass-throughs or for fluid flow. Perfect circles can be downright infuriating if you’re trying to cut freehand with a knife or scissors. Instead, spend a few dollars and invest in a gasket punch set. These kits come with a multitude of perfectly round cutting dies that make getting the perfect cut as easy as a light hammer swing.

Gasket paper is cheap enough that it is worth grabbing some stock just to have in your toolbox. Think ahead and get some practice by making one or two gaskets for a project to get a feel for the process and technique before an emergency arises and you truly need one now. Practice makes perfect, and perfect gaskets make leak-free cars.

Have an extra tip for making your own sealing pieces? Leave it in the Hagerty Community below. Also be sure to subscribe to the Hagerty YouTube channel to get a new DIY video each Wednesday.

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Last week, Davin (that’s pronounced Dave-in) walked through the basics of cutting new threads in stock materials. That is all but necessary for fabricating new parts and pieces for a project, but what about threaded holes that already exist in parts you need to salvage? Then it’s time to talk about chasing threads. While it’s a simple process, there are a few tips that Davin thinks are important to keep in mind.

The reasoning

Even on an engine block fresh from the machine shop, Davin goes through and cleans all the threaded holes. This is key to make sure when installing bolts that the clamping force is correct. If the threads are full of junk, or are rough or have a catch in them, the torque will not accurately reflect the clamping load. Clean threads are also less likely to strip or jam up and cause other problems during assembly.

The tools

While it is possible to use standard taps and dies to complete this process, those tools are made for cutting and run the chance of taking material out and creating weaker threads. Instead, purchase a set of designated thread chasers or make your own by filing a few grooves in grade-8 hardened bolts. The grooves give the debris in the thread a place to go as the bolts thread down and clean out the hole.

On the inverse, if it is a external diameter thread that needs cleaned up there are thread files that at cut to match various thread pitches which can be used to quickly and easily reform any damaged threads and also remove built up corrosion or debris. As Davin points out, this is less for easily replaceable bolts and more for threads formed onto parts that might be financially reasonable to replace due to one damaged thread. The example he has on the workbench is a GM pinion gear that would be hundreds of dollars to replace, but thread files are far cheaper and can revive this part easily.

The process

Using thread chases is as easy as tightening a bolt. Get the chaser started straight and true by hand, and thread it carefully either by hand or with a ratchet or wrench if a bit more torque is needed. If the amount of gunk in the threads is substantial, it might be prudent to start with a blast of brake cleaner or compressed air to try and remove as much of the big material as possible.

The thread file is also simple to use, but it requires a bit more care to keep from inadvertently damaging the part. Davin recommends placing the file on the damaged threads but offsetting it slightly so it has a good thread to guide the cutting. Even with badly folded-over thread it only take a couple passes with the file to remove enough material to make the part new again. Also worth noting is that files are design to cut in one direction, so proper use is to only put pressure on the file while on the forward stroke. Any pressure while retracting the file is just acting to dull the file prematurely.

These are two tools that don’t make sense to purchase until you need them, but as Davin shows there isn’t a great substitute for the proper tool to accomplish this task. Keep the threads clean and your next project will go together much smoother. Of course, but sure to subscribe to the Hagerty YouTube channel for more DIY tips and tricks every Wednesday.

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Adhesives, nuts and bolts, and a press-fit can all hold things together, but threaded holes are found in a huge number of automotive components. Whether building something custom or restoring parts that have suffered years of use and neglect, it is only a matter of time before you will need to cut some new threads. Davin is here to tell you everything you need to know about the tapping process with this week’s Hagerty DIY.

The lingo

Take a look at the hardware section of your local parts house and you will see a seemingly infinite number of bins labeled with a mess of numbers and letters. Don’t worry: The code is pretty easy to decipher.

The first bit of information is the major diameter of the threads, which is essentially the widest point of the fastener. Using a 1/4-20 bolt as an example, the diameter of the bolt will be 1/4 inches measured at the outside of the threads. The second piece of information is the number of threads per inch. Commonly referred to plainly as “coarse” and “fine,” there are a multitude of common threads-per-inch figures.

For metric fasteners, it is roughly the same formula; but instead of calling out threads per inch, that second number designates the pitch measurement. Davin uses an M6-1.0 as an example of this, as the 1.0 describes the width of the thread pitch in millimeters.

The tools

If you need to cut new threads into a part, the tools you will need are both general and highly specialized. A drill is common, as are drill bits; the handle to hold your cutting tap is a little more specialized, and the tap itself is the most single-focus tool of the lot. Davin also reminds that cutting fluid like Rapid Tap is very helpful to have on hand to help the tool cut without damaging it or the workpiece.

If you are going to be doing a lot of threading, invest in a good set of numbered drill bits. These numbered bits are what is often referenced in the carts for thread cutting, and using the proper size will result in a much nicer final product. High-quality taps are better than bottom-shelf, but often it makes the most financial sense to start with a small set of common sizes and then grow your collection as needed. Cheaper taps are very tempting, but yield mediocre results at best. You’ve been warned.

The process

Step-by-step is fairly simple, so most of the tips here relate to nuance. Plainly put: Drill hole, run tap through, clean out. It sounds easy, but Davin has a few key pointers.

The first is to use a center punch to mark the desired hole location and to give the drill bit somewhere to bite so it does not walk or move. Also be sure to keep the drill bit as square to the surface as possible. A dash of cutting fluid helps keep the drill bit cool, which makes for longer tool life. Use a chamfer tool to finish the freshly drilled hole to help the tap start easier.

Now the taps are called up off the bench. The tips above for the drill bit apply here, plus one: When cutting threads by hand, it is important to break the chip (the metal being removed by the tap) to prevent the tap from breaking. The general rule of thumb is a half-turn forward followed by a quarter-turn back. The tool should be doing the work; if you have to put a lot of torque into the tap, you likely have a misstep in setup or a dull tap. Taps are hardened, and if yours is broken off, you will have one hell of a time trying to get it out. Go slow and save yourself the headache of removing the broken bits.

Overall, the ability to create or repair threaded holes is a great skill to have. Grab some scrap steel or aluminum and practice a few times with various sizes before jumping right in on parts for a specific project. Also be sure to subscribe to the Hagerty YouTube channel to never miss an DIY episode with more garage tips and knowledge you should know.

Enjoy Season 2 stories, opinion, and features from across the car world - Hagerty Media

Tub of chassis grease

Medium strength threadlocker

Dielectric grease

WD-40 and a penetrating oil

Starting fluid

White lithium grease

Carburetor cleaner

Wax and grease remover

Brake cleaner

Engine degreaser

Glass cleaner

Interior cleaner

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Enjoy Season 2 stories, opinion, and features from across the car world - Hagerty Media

The tools

The process

Stop to learn

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Enjoy Season 2 stories, opinion, and features from across the car world - Hagerty Media

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Enjoy Season 2 stories, opinion, and features from across the car world - Hagerty Media

Construction

Types

Reading

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Enjoy Season 2 stories, opinion, and features from across the car world - Hagerty Media

Materials

The process

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Enjoy Season 2 stories, opinion, and features from across the car world - Hagerty Media

The reasoning

The tools

The process

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Enjoy Season 2 stories, opinion, and features from across the car world - Hagerty Media

The lingo

The tools

The process

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