Never Stop Driving #114: The Tail of the Dragon Never Gets Old

DW Burnett

Last week, I had an unplanned reunion at Tail of the Dragon, the Tennessee road famous for its scenic curviness—there are some 300 bends along an 11-mile stretch through the wilderness that divides the Great Smoky Mountains from the Cherokee National Forest. A destination road for anyone who loves driving, the Dragon is cherished by locals who often call it “Deals Gap.” The road is officially known as Route 129.  

I first visited back in 1990 and, naturally, have returned dozens of times. During one stopover in 2014, I learned about an underground competition to drive the Dragon the fastest. I’d long heard rumors that a good finish time was about ten minutes to cover a nine-mile stretch from the Calderwood Lake lookout to the North Carolina border. Nine miles in 10 minutes is about 54 mph, which seemed impossibly fast for those tight turns. Ten minutes, I assumed, must have been just another BS rumor.  

But during that trip a decade ago, some locals told me that 10 minutes was legit. They also spun tales about a mysterious driver who’d show up at night, set a faster time than anyone, and then disappear. The idea of this unnamed driver immediately captivated me, and I knew I had to find a way to tell one of the most compelling car stories I’d ever heard. I became obsessed with tracking down this mystery man. After dozens of calls, I made contact—through an intermediary—with him, and he agreed to let me follow him on the Dragon to see if I could keep up. I arrived in Tennessee in June 2014 with the fastest horse I could find, a Ferrari 458 Speciale.

The driver didn’t want his name revealed, so when I wrote the article for Road & Track, I called him Mr. Davis. He was not only a very capable driver but also a teacher who’d informally show others how to properly control both cars and motorcycles on twisty Appalachian routes. During my time in Tennessee in 2014, I got to know a small group of hyperenthusiastic car folks who were lucky enough to live near some of the world’s best roads. While I haven’t spoken to Mr. Davis since then, I’m in regular contact with others and find my way back there every so often, like I did last week.  

After finishing dinner at the remote Tapoco Lodge, we had to take the Dragon to get back to our hotel. I drove cautiously because it was incredibly dark and even the high beams of my 2017 Corvette did little to illuminate the curves. We pulled onto the Calderwood Lake overlook at around 9:30 p.m., joining a pair of motorcyclists. Their bikes were sportbikes, essentially racing machines for the street, and the riders were dressed in one-piece protective leather suits. They were not there to cruise. Of course, I was going to talk to this pair and when I did, imagine my surprise when one of them turned out to be the one and only Mr. Davis. 

Yup, he’s still at it. Mr. Davis recently retired so he has more time for driving and mentoring. The other rider, much younger, was a protegé who addressed Mr. Davis as “Jedi,” which is the honorific title regularly used. I loved that. There’s a code among the locals, an informal set of rules to avoid accidents that attract more patrols. They run at night and stay in their lanes, for example, and they respect their elders. For all the details, listen to this week’s Never Stop Driving podcast on Apple and Spotify. Please share and rate the podcast—I’d love to reach more folks.

That fun unplanned meetup capped an intense week of gathering material for upcoming issues of Hagerty Drivers Club magazine. If you’d like the magazine and support all the free media we produce, please join the club via this link.  

There was also plenty of terrific news and stories this week from Hagerty and the rest of the car world. Here are some highlights: 

  • This week on Hagerty Auctions, some lucky bidders bought a Honda CT70, a Bullitt Mustang, and a Datsun 510. Go shopping and have fun.  

Tonight, and tomorrow, it’s Radwood in Motown! I’ll be at the car show in front of Ford’s fabulously restored Michigan Central Station Friday night, so come say hi if you’re there. I hope to see you.  

Thanks for reading! 

Larry 

P.S.: Your feedback and comments are welcome.   

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Comments

    My first trip on the “Dragon” was in 1974 when a friend and I on our motorcycles (1973 Suzuki GT750 and a 1969 Norton Atlas(!?) were looking for a shortcut around the west end of the national park and took the incredibly crooked road south on our way to Bryson City. We had no idea that the narrow tar and chip road with the very deep drops through the switch backs would eventually become world famous. My impression was it was a mountain road that not many years previously had been gravel before being shot with tar and gravel.

    The next time I was on the road was twenty years later and I was amazed at how the road had been re-engineered to level out the steep elevation changes in the 180’s and the widened with asphalt surface. By this time it had achieved its world-wide exposure. I’ve been on 129 several times since. the last time when I cruised the F150 down the Dragon…..yes, I’m no longer that youngster on the bike. 🙂

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