Your Handy 1959–68 Sunbeam Alpine Buyer’s Guide
“Hairy chested” is a trope often used to describe British sports cars of the postwar period. For some, it was appropriate, as anyone who has driven an Austin-Healey 3000 will tell you, because you need some pecs to deal with the steering. Over at the Rootes Group, however, its designers took a less overtly masculine approach to the new Sunbeam Alpine introduced in 1959. Sixty-five years later, it’s a sometimes overlooked but eminently charming little sports car that can be surprisingly affordable to buy and rewarding to own.
Not to be confused with the altogether different Alpine Mk I and Mk III of 1953–55, the Alpine Series I arrived with sleek looks that were far more modern than those of the contemporary Triumph TR3A. It also offered more creature comforts than the MGA (wind-up windows in place of side curtains, for instance), so the Sunbeam had everything required for broad appeal to sports car buyers. The only problem was sports car buyers at the time were a hardy bunch wherever they were, whether in the U.K., the U.S., or elsewhere. It didn’t help the Alpine’s cause that it looked more like a tourer, or a miniature Ford Thunderbird, than a two-seat sports car. It even came with nominal 2+2 seating in most versions. When the Triumph TR4 and then the MGB roadster pitched up, the Alpine kind of got squeezed from many buyers’ minds. It did rack up similar sales to the TR4/4A in total, but as classics they just aren’t as highly regarded as the better-known Triumphs and MGs they competed against in the 1960s.
The Alpine Series I didn’t wow with its 78hp 1.5-liter inline four-cylinder engine, which delivered 0–60mph in 14 seconds and would just wheeze the Sunbeam past 100mph. Little wonder it was replaced quickly in 1960 with an 80hp 1.6-liter motor for the Series II. And yet, performance took a dip, with 0–60mph now coming in 14.8 seconds en route to a 97mph top speed. Fuel economy suffered as well. That counterintuitive trajectory continued with the Series III (1963) and IV (1964). The Series IV also got rid of the high tail fins that were a charming feature on earlier Alpines. There was nominally more power with these later cars, but reduced performance.
It was only when the Series V arrived in 1965 with a 1725cc engine and 92hp that things finally perked up. This final version would just hit 100mph, but at least dipped the 0–60mph time below 14 seconds, though not by much.
The Rootes Group famously addressed this problem with the Tiger, which was essentially an Alpine with the 260 cid V-8 engine from a Ford Mustang under the bonnet. The Tiger is a beloved and quite valuable classic on both sides of the Atlantic. And, given its basic layout and its connection with Carroll Shelby, it’s seen as something of a budget Cobra. The Tiger’s long shadow is perhaps another reason the four-cylinder Alpine is a somewhat underappreciated classic.
As for the Alpine lineup, a GT and Sport model were offered from the Series III onwards, but performance was identical. The big difference was the GT came with a hardtop, but it also did without a fabric top for when you removed the roof.
Rootes also came up with a coupe version of its Sunbeam sports car long before MG offered the B GT. Again, Sunbeam should have done well, but the Harrington Alpine was only an officially approved conversion by coachbuilder Thomas Harrington Ltd., and not a factory car. As a consequence, Sunbeam sold fewer than 400 of these very pretty hardtops.
With the exception of the Harrington Alpine, which is quite collectible and desirable thanks to its rarity, the Sunbeam Alpine remains an affordable, practical 1960s sports car. It’s easy to pass it by while browsing the likes of the MGB, Triumph TR4, Alfa Romeo Spider, and Fiat 124 Spider, but take a closer look and the Alpine’s broader charms make it an easy classic to live with. If you buy the right one, that is.
What’s a Sunbeam Alpine Like to Drive?
Read through the Sunbeam Alpine’s mechanical specification and you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in for a dull drive. After all, the Alpine is based on the same floor pan as the Rootes Group’s lower-order saloons of the same era. The engine is a not especially sporting four-pot, and the steering is by recirculating ball rather than rack-and-pinion. There is independent front suspension by double wishbones, but the back has leaf springs and a live axle. This was a fairly standard setup for the period.
On the road, the suspension misses the incisiveness of a Triumph or MG as you turn into corners. There’s more body lean in the Alpine and you feel less tucked into its cabin due to those tourer looks. All of this could be a disappointment, but it’s worth recalibrating your expectations to enjoy the Alpine for what it is. This is more of a “sporty car” rather than a “sports car.”
The steering that’s not as pitch perfect as an MGB’s also means the Sunbeam is a relaxing car to cover miles in, and it’s still more than accurate enough for country-road jaunts. It’s the same with the gearshift, the brakes, the throttle response, and the handling overall. They can all play a sporty role when asked, but they’re happier when cruising.
A more laid-back nature also shows itself in the roomier cockpit of the Alpine compared to its key rivals. Driver and passenger sit a bit more upright and there’s good room for elbows and shoulders. You’ll also find some room behind the seats for a couple of bags that might not fit into the generous trunk. However, forget any notion of the Alpine being a 2+2, even if there are technically rear seats in there. Not even small children will fit.
As an open-top car, the Sunbeam Alpine is more of a rival to the likes of the Triumph Vitesse convertible, Peugeot 204 cabriolet, or Renault Caravelle. In this company, it’s a very successful design that brings modern comforts with a big dash of style.
How Much Does a Sunbeam Alpine Cost?
The spread of Sunbeam Alpine models are all within close reach of each other when it comes to prices. Despite being the least numerous of the Series Alpines, the Series I can be bought in #3 (“good”) condition from $12,800, and in #2 (“excellent”) condition for $26,900. Prices are much the same for the Series II car. In fact, values remains very similar up through the very last Series Vs.
The exception for Alpine valuation is the rare Harrington fastback model, which exist in a different budget range. The Le Mans version, which came with a tuned engine along with the Harrington coupe bodywork, will typically command more than double the price of a standard convertible in similar condition. Alpine values have had some ups and downs over the years but generally haven’t done much relative to the rest of the classic car market. In fact, their median #2 value of $25,300 is almost exactly what it was a decade ago, not adjusted for inflation.
What to Look for When Buying a Sunbeam Alpine
It will come as little surprise to learn that any pre-purchase inspection of a Sunbeam Alpine begins with a thorough search for rust. Even apparently shiny cars can hide serious structural corrosion, so be wary of any seller who won’t let you jack up the car. With the car on the jack, test the doors to see if they open and close easily. If they do, there’s a good chance the main cruciform chassis and sills are sound. Even so, you still need to get under the car and check every inch of the metalwork for rot. Rear spring hangers and the boot floor are common areas for rust, along with the front and rear valances, floor pans, and all around the bulkheads.
When you’ve finished underneath, it’s time to look at the inner wings, around the headlamps, wheel wells, boot lid, door bottoms, door hinges, windscreen surround, and pretty much every other piece of metal. Also check the hardtop’s condition if the car has one. Later hardtops were made from steel rather than aluminum so are more likely to corrode.
If all that sounds off-putting, the Sunbeam Alpine makes up for it with rugged mechanical components. The engines will generally soldier on, but look for blue smoke on start-up that points to worn bores or piston rings. Also make sure the engine gets up to temperature on a test drive and it doesn’t overheat or leak. Coolant dripping from the rear of the block points to a rusty core plug. Manual gearboxes are tough, while the overdrive, if fitted, is a Laycock de Normanville item and simple enough to overhaul. The available but rare three-speed automatic gearbox should work smoothly, but check for clean fluid.
The suspension, brakes, and steering are all tried and tested stuff from the Rootes Group parts bin of the late 1950s and early 1960s, so parts supply is decent. It’s also easy to work on and check for wear, so look for worn rubbers, leaking lever arm shock absorbers, and any play in the steering. Front disc brakes are also simple to inspect, and make sure the handbrake holds the car on a hill.
Inside, the Alpine Series III GT model introduced a wood veneer dash, so check the condition of the panel if this is fitted, as the veneer can chip and lift. Make sure all of the dials and switches work properly and the window winders operate smoothly. On convertible cars, lift the top to check its fit and condition. New soft tops are available in vinyl, but aren’t cheap.
Which Is the Right Sunbeam Alpine for You?
Since values and equipment are largely similar across the years, the key decision for many when choosing a Sunbeam Alpine is down to whether they prefer the larger rear fin style of the earlier cars or the slimmed down appearance of the later models. Series I–III cars made between 1959 and 1964 have the more pronounced rear fins. The SII gained the larger 1.6-litre engine, while the Series III came with servo-assisted brakes, quarter lights in the front doors, and slightly revised suspension. However, they all drive in a similar manner, albeit with leisurely performance.
If there is a winner for drivability, it’s arguably the Series V, with the larger and more flexible 1725cc engine. Find one with overdrive fitted and it makes for a refined cruiser with decent fuel economy and just enough pep to stay with modern traffic. These last-of-the-line models also came with an alternator as standard rather than a dynamo for more effective lighting. Regardless of version, though, a clean Alpine is an affordable, fun vintage convertible that also looks great and stands out in a crowd of MGs and Triumphs.
Series 3 was actually the lowest production series @ a bit less than 6000.
Always liked these and wanted one – preferably one of the big fin models – but the opportunities just kept slipping by!
They’re cool. And some local guy has an unrestored but nice example that he frequently drives. Powder blue. But…do I need to say it?… ‘ Hold that Tiger’ by The Mills Brothers. Maxwell Smarts is actually an Alpine decked out as one because they hadn’t gone into production yet. And when Chrysler bought Rootes they were forced to sell them briefly with 289s because apparently small block Mopars wouldn’t fit. Discontinued soon after.
No Max drove a Tiger which the Star Don Adams kept for some years after the show. It currently resides in New Zealand . An Alpine was used (badged as a TIger) for the scenes were cool spy things like an under bonnet cannon were show cased there was no room for this in the Tiger
A Tiger was used in the intro for the first two seasons. It also appeared in episodes thru the middle of Season 2, when the Alpine appeared. After the Tiger intro disappeared, the Alpine continued to be used during episodes for several years. The Tiger appeared at least once more in Season 3.
I had one of these, a brand new 1725 Alpine V, in high school. I remember that it was not as fast as my previous 413 Dart, but did use substantially less fuel and oil. Back then, it was easy run out of money when your Dual Quad Mopar used about 6 mpg and 400 mi/quart (normal for the “Super Stock”), or worse, even with $.30/gal “high test”.
It was geared short, didn’t have the optional overdrive, but only cost about $2000, taxed and licensed, out the door at Larry Reed Sport Cars.
It didn’t have any problems, other than a bad heater valve, repaired under warranty, and the baffle in the exhaust “y” came loose and jangled until it was pulled out, again, under warranty.
I serviced it myself, learning about setting points, adjusting valves, timing and synchronization of the twin Strombegs and changing brake pads and shoes.
I added a roll bar and a set of Konis and took it to the local AutoX with the college sport car club and thoroughly enjoyed it until I started messing with the suspension, adding a rear anti sway bar that was a bit too thick, and turning it into a flat cornering, oversteer terror.
I made several trips from LA to SFO, and never had a problem with the car. There were no electrical problems, no engine problems, no oil consumption and the gearbox crisp and grind free. I did replace a clutch, as I recall, but beyond that, it was a good machine with no problems.
It was mechanically robust, comfortable with the adjustable seat backs and could hold its own agains the high school rich kid’s 912 in a drag race. Eventually, the Alpine was replaced by a Healey 3000 MKII with the 3 SUs, and then a couple of SAABS and an Alfa.
I drove a Series V for 7 years of University and I still own it 40 off years later . It never let me down-We used to drive round country roads with the top down and my brother perched on the passenger seat with a shot gun resting on the top of the windsheild frame – When we came round a corner and caught the rabbits in our lights he would blast them. My brother is dead now but we sure had fun . My son has the Alpine now complete with shot marks across the hood. I’ve upgraded to a very nice 1965 Tiger and I would never dream of rabbit shooting from it !
SJ, Inglewood HS?
Had one of the 1725 ‘s BRG in color. My brother and I were going down to Mid-Ohio to see a race when the engine locked up on me. . Coasted into an abandoned gas station. Had to have it towed. Turns out the bearings failed, no oil pressure. Parts had to come out of Canada by RR, which were on strike at the time. Waited about a month to get the car back. A few weeks after that had some guy pull out in front of me ! I T-boned him and had to take the car into the body shop to get repaired. After getting the car back I sold it !
Are you any relation to the Crenshsaws who lived in the Tarentum near Pittsburgh, PA? If so we may be
related.
I thought the were nice looking, especially with the hardtop they had a slight original Thunderbird in their style.
Karl – You obviously no more than I. But , to be more specific ,maybe it’s that the Tiger used in the introduction that was actually an Alpine. That is what I’ve always heard. So real Tiger then after I’m guessing and as you’ve said . To tell the truth , I haven’t seen many episodes of “Get Smart’ and none that had him in a Tiger.
My first car was a 1964 Mk IV. I can’t imagine it going anywhere near 100mph. At 50mph I was turning 3,000rpm assuming both the speedo and tach were accurate. Had a lot of fun with that car, but fast it was not. We used to race up the first hill on Silver Lake Rd in Traverse City on our way to Long Lake. About the only car I could keep up with was an AH Sprite. In the end, my mother used it as a trade in for a new Malibu, and she gave me her ’64 Bonneville.
After riding around in Hillmans as a kid i thought Alpines were Cool.
A friend’s dad replaced the tired engine in his Alpine with a Buick V6 from an early-1960’s Special.
Dare I say “engine swap”? A relatively modern 1.6-2.0L four would make you think you were driving a Tiger, but without the added weight in the front. But no, these are worth a bit much in stock form for hot rodding. Of course if I found one with a decent body but a bad or missing drivetrain I’d be tempted… but I think I’d at least inquire as to availability and cost of a replacement over a swap. Then it would depend on total cost including shipping/road trip to get it… Wouldn’t be hard to swap in a first generation Miata drive train…