What Places Are Notoriously Hard to Reach on Your Car?
We all have to dig into our vehicles to repair, replace or simply retrieve something at some point. Be it addressing a bad exhaust manifold gasket, failed starter, or your cell phone that slid between the seat and the console, some places are notoriously hard to reach. Sometimes it feels like this was created by design, especially when you need to get something done quickly.
This week’s question should generate many unique stories and relatable tales of painfully difficult things to reach in your vehicle. There are just some places that are so much harder than others, especially on some vehicles. For me, it’s the ritual of doing an oil change on my Lincoln Mark VIII, because I truly hate the filter location.
See the Mobil 1 oil filter nestled deep within the engine cradle, further obscured by the anti-roll bar underneath? Granted, I’ve made this job harder for myself, as said bar is a much larger piece from Addco. While access to spin the oil filter off from the block is straightforward, the oil pours down the engine cradle (all around the pictured metal/rubber hose) and collects at the divot in the cradle’s sheetmetal. It’s a mess, especially since there’s another divot which requires careful placement of your oil pan to ensure it catches used oil from both locations.
It’s a hot mess (literally), but I haven’t even discussed the real chore: getting the oil filter between the engine and that Addco bar. The trick is to stick your pointer finger in the oil filter, clamp down with said finger, and pull down hard so it slides past the bar.
I’ve owned this car for over two decades and can change the oil without frustration, but this filter is still “notoriously hard” to reach. So now I shall kick the question back to you:
What places are notoriously hard to reach on your car?
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These three immediately come to mind:
*1994/1997 Z28 #8 spark plug (scars to prove it)
*C6 Z06 rear exhaust hanger mount (diff fill plug is only a minor annoyance in comparison)
*2005 F150 A/C condensation drain elbow (at firewall)
I also drew blood doing the plugs on my 95 Z28. I was also going to do the wires at the same time but decided to give myself a cooling off period before tackling them. It’s been two years now.
You still sound a bit warm – give it another year!
My Supra, it’s relatively easy to get to the filter, just reach in with the hood open to the lower drivers side of the motor. However spilling is guaranteed as there are hoses in the way and the angle the filter is at once you urn it enough the oil starts to come out and spill down the side of the filter you are turning. Then there is the after change drips the next day or so as gravity makes what spilled oil that was underneath finally fall down. At this point I know where to leave the paper towel for the overnight drips.
The rear most spark plug on a Sunbeam Tiger. Changed from under the steering wheel through a hole in the drivers side toe board. Also, the one under the generator.
BMW e9x, you would think that with an electric water pump, that doesn’t have to be driven off the front of the engine, it could be located somewhere sorta’ convenient to replace. But no, they put it on an even more inconvenient location at the bottom of the engine and surrounded by sharp edges … oh yeah, thermostat is right next to it.
Lotus Twin Cam distributor. The lotus twin cam head was developed for the Ford 5 bearing block. That cortina engine had an overhead valve, non-crossflow head. The distributor on the right side was never a problem in that configuration. But with the lotus twin cam crossflow head in place, including two giant Webers hanging off the right side, the distributor is almost completely buried. Doesn’t matter which car the engine is installed in.
If you remove the air box and trunking, you can adjust the timing. But if you want to work on the points and condenser, it’s easier to just pull the distributor. 🧐😅
Even finding the spark plugs on my C8 Audi RS6. Thank God that I have Audi Care which covers parts and labor to replace them at 30K miles.
Jeep Wrangler JK clutch slave cylinder bleed screw. On top of the transmission, very difficult to get a wrench on.
Impossible to bleed without taking a bath in DOT3.
Definitely not designed with service in mind.
Getting to the oil filter on a transverse mounted iron duke on an A Body GM car requires an arm with two elbows.
Over the years, we have owned six family minivans (2 Dodge/Plymouth, 2 Fords, 1 Mazda & 1 Kia).
All have had transverse mounted V6 engines. The rear spark plugs on all of these engines have been a real pain to replace. The are very hard to reach and some have required removing the top half of the intake manifold. The KIA is the worst because in addition to pulling the intake, the plugs are those tiny 14mm in very deep wells that require a special thin wall extra long socket to extract. A regular deep socket won’t work because it will get stuck in the hole. Took me nearly two hours to fish the socket out because there was no way to get a good grip on it. The long extension kept pulling out of the socket because the socket was stuck so tight in the hole. Lots of WD-40 and patience finally got it out.
The later model Lexus RX350’s are a joy to change the rear spark plugs and coils on. Not only does the intake manifold have to come off, but the windshield wipers, motor and panels above it. It took hours and hours the first time I did one. Even had to fabricate a tool to pop the windshield wipers off. Even with everything removed it’s a b%$#@ to get to the plugs and bolts holding the coils down.
Working on anything under or behind the instrument panel on a c3 corvette. Better be a contortionist. Handy tip, make sure that you have someone around to pull you out
1977 Camero 305 cubic inch motor replacing passager side firewall Cylinder #8 spark plug. Remove front passanger side tire first.
Dear Friends,
Many, many times through the years, I have thought to myself, I’d like to reply, add input to a story I’ve read here. Not until today have I finally gotten off the dime to do so. The subject matter really hit a nerve with me! As you are about to discover.
Mazda Miata, 2000 year model. LS, 5 speed manual transmission, Oil filter change. What a pain!
I always changed oil and filters on all my cars, until I met this car. My arms are too big (6’2″ tall, 185#, kinda normal size guy) to come at it from the topside of the engine. So, I come at it from the bottom, which means, jack the car up. To get my small floor jack under it I have to get a brick and a 2×4 to initially lift the car so I can get the jack under it and put it on jack stands. Then, take off a large plastic pan that nests into place tightly, only about 15 fasteners hold that ridiculous thing on, next, remove the intake manifold brace (a sculpted cast piece) then, lay a medium towel on the crossmember and as much around that dripping filter as possible, remove the filter, put the new one on, but do not pre-fill it, then reverse steps to assemble everything. Be sure to wash side of the engine and the surrounding areas with a degreaser so oil which has spilled won’t drip off the crossmember and make you think you have an oil leak. Wipe a rag all over places you cannot see but make for little reservoirs of oil to drip later on.
One of my wife’s friends husband was starting an auto repair shop and needed the business so, I started taking it there, for a number of years. I started to see signs that his work quality had started to slip, but I still (mistakenly) had faith in him.
It finally hit me when he failed to tighten the oil filter, and, it came loose on the freeway, at speed. I always watch my gauges, maybe I should say ALMOST always, I do have to watch the road, which I was doing, when I heard a rattle, too late! Number one rod bearing spun! So at 110,000 miles my little engine was dead as a doornail. Fortunately, it did not throw a rod.
A used engine was looked at, for about $3500 installed, or, a rebuild my engine by another, more competent, Mechanic was estimated to cost $9500.
Since I used to imagine that I am a competent amateur Mechanic (I am a Machinist by trade, heavy industrial/Job Shop type work) I decided to rebuild it myself. I have rebuilt 6, now 7 engines. Well!!! Talk about being humbled to the marrow of my bones! 16 hours to remove the engine and transmission as a unit, impossible for me to remove only the engine! 14 hours to put it back in, with a competent friend/Mechanic helping me. Ugh!
When rebuilding the engine, I measured the cylinder bores with my dial bore gage, which reads in .0001 increments, I found, at most, and amazing .0006 out of round and taper in the bores. Unbelievable to me! at 110,000 miles! My 1969 Dodge, at 120,000 mi, had .0095 taper in the cylinders. I honed the bores for 45 seconds each to have perfect bores.
Crank regrind, cleaned up at .010 (.25mm) undersize.
While I was there, New clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing- it was dry and nearly dead itself so that was a good PM (preventive maintenance). Also, new front bearing and seal on the transmission’s input shaft and new rear seal. A brand new drive shaft as the u-joints are not serviceable (what the heck?!) new rear axles, center section seals, both rear wheel bearings and seals.
Also, the EGR valve gave me fits for about 3 years, multiple visits to 2 Mechanics(one was the bad one) and repeated visits to Mazda dealer all failed to fix it. Making smog checks impossible, Mazda just wanted to throw parts at it, I would not let them. Diagnose the problem, please. They DID NOT KNOW HOW TO!
I finally, finally, finally, sat down, and read, and learned to understand the Mazda factory repair manual. I had purchased it from Mazda when I bought the car in ’04 and had always felt intimidated by the manual.
I diagnosed the entire EGR system, per the manual, the very last thing it could be was a failed ECM (engine control module). I removed the unit, opened it up, and found a number of smoked and fried components. Mazda wanted $1600 for a new ECM, but, oooooo, ain’t none in the USA, discontinued item fella, junkyard item pal, good luck.
I found a yard in Florida that specializes in Miatas, and, they had the exact model I needed, otherwise, it won’t pass emission testing, so, for $110, including shipping. I had it in hand, 4 days later.
Prior to installing, I checked ALL wiring related to the EGR system, for faults to ground and ohms resistance. I did that because I did not know what caused the ECM to fail in the first place as they are a very robust item. If there was a ground fault I didn’t wish to burn out my new ECM.
All for just under $4000 and much personal irritation.
The car runs very well now, smooth and quiet.
You may ask, “Did you talk to the Mechanic who messed up?” No, I did not. My wife objected as she thought it would cause hard feelings between her friend and her. Really?? Really??
Taking the engine apart I used my 1/2″ drive breaker bar, with a cheater, pulling with every fiber of my being to break the spark plugs loose! Same with the oil drain plug but with my 3/8 drive breaker bar, braced against the car with my knees and shoulder on the tire! Barely got it loose with a tremendous, CRACK! Very clear sign of overuse and improper use of an impact wrench.
I noticed that one of the spark plug wells was 1/3rd to 1/2 full of oil. Somehow, I think maybe things rattled around when his impact rattled around in that well. It tore holes in the sheetmetal tube that seals the spark plug from oil in the cam galley. The engine is a hemi head design, I believe, at any rate, the sheetmetal tube got very damaged.
Oh yes, and $1800 to fix the AC. He checked for refrigerant leaks with spittle! Replaced the compressor 3 times! I took it to a guy who had the proper equipment, knew what he was doing, and charged $300, including a replacement expansion valve, which was under the dash.
Again… you may ask… No, I did not.
Mostly, I just have to learn to do it myself, and do it. Oil changes now, no prob, 2hr, crawling around, fine! Dandy! Saves me many thousands of dollars, let alone the time component.
Thanks for listening…
I feel Much better…
But, there is more…… not today though.
All because an oil filter wasn’t tightened 1/4 turn after contact with the sealing surface!
Regarding the Mazda oil filter placement design, I say “There is a special place in Hell for Engineers who design without maintenance in mind”
Don’t get me going on that! I have known many Engineers in my career and only a very small handful were any good. When you find one he is like a rare jewel to be treasured.
Wow, John – you may have waited a long time, but when you finally let loose with a post, you REALLY swung for the bleachers! Quite a story. 👍👍
The top two bolts on my son’s Mazda B2300 pickup (rebadged Ranger) bellhousing will require you to put together a Rube Goldberg-esque collection of long, short, wobble, and U-joints so that your ratchet can get to the bolts to drop the tranny. But the real answer to your question is found in why we needed to drop the tranny. Because some brilliant Ford engineers thought it would be a really good idea to design a slave cylinder that completely encircles the tranny input shaft. I remember the call… “Hey Dad, when I push in the clutch, it doesn’t disengage unless I pump it.” Told him to pump it by hand while looking under the truck… Do you see fluid dripping when you pump it? Yes? OK – I’ll pick up a slave cylinder and some fluid on the way home from work and we’ll knock it out in under an hour in your Mom’s driveway.” Boy were we in for a rude awakening…
The half of the spark plugs on my Nissan Frontier’s 4.0L V6 that require you to remove the upper intake manifold to get to them…