What Places Are Notoriously Hard to Reach on Your Car?
We all have to dig into our vehicles to repair, replace or simply retrieve something at some point. Be it addressing a bad exhaust manifold gasket, failed starter, or your cell phone that slid between the seat and the console, some places are notoriously hard to reach. Sometimes it feels like this was created by design, especially when you need to get something done quickly.
This week’s question should generate many unique stories and relatable tales of painfully difficult things to reach in your vehicle. There are just some places that are so much harder than others, especially on some vehicles. For me, it’s the ritual of doing an oil change on my Lincoln Mark VIII, because I truly hate the filter location.
See the Mobil 1 oil filter nestled deep within the engine cradle, further obscured by the anti-roll bar underneath? Granted, I’ve made this job harder for myself, as said bar is a much larger piece from Addco. While access to spin the oil filter off from the block is straightforward, the oil pours down the engine cradle (all around the pictured metal/rubber hose) and collects at the divot in the cradle’s sheetmetal. It’s a mess, especially since there’s another divot which requires careful placement of your oil pan to ensure it catches used oil from both locations.
It’s a hot mess (literally), but I haven’t even discussed the real chore: getting the oil filter between the engine and that Addco bar. The trick is to stick your pointer finger in the oil filter, clamp down with said finger, and pull down hard so it slides past the bar.
I’ve owned this car for over two decades and can change the oil without frustration, but this filter is still “notoriously hard” to reach. So now I shall kick the question back to you:
What places are notoriously hard to reach on your car?
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NC Miata driver side headlight bulb cannot reach from under hood. Remove inner fender or front bumper cover for access.
And I also resorted to removing the wheel to get to it. I’ve read comments where people would remove the bumper to get to it.
Years ago as a youngster I had the bright idea that I would put a set of Hedman headers on my 1965 Pontiac GTO. Unfortunately after installing them I realized it now required that instead of un-spinning the oil filter to remove it, I had to unbolt the filter housing from the engine block.
In some cases, there are smaller versions of oil filters that fit the same application as the “recommended” or stock size. I found that to be true on my ’66 Poncho. The old stock size would not come out between the header and frame, but the smaller one I use now BARELY makes it (if I hold my mouth right).
Changed out my battery on a 2014 Ford Escape. This should be a 10 minute job. Nope. They buried it so back, that you have to remove the windshield wipers, a bunch of screws and clips and 2 sections under the windshield to get access. This was recommended by the Ford mechanic. Said there was another way, but had to take apart more stuff. Any other suggestions, other than not buying a Ford.
Transmission dipstick on Gen 1 Ford Raptors. It’s a part the filler cap on the transmission itself, right side, only inches away from the catalytic converter. While the engine is running to check transmission oil, slide under the truck, reach up and unscrew the dipstick cap (the dipstick is only a few inches long) whilst trying not to burn your hand. Small hands are a benefit. Try to read the oil level on the dipstick (flashlight needed) then replace it whilst not burning your hand.
Woe be the unlucky classic Fiat 124 owner who wishes to replace his brake booster! The upper right nut (there are four) is on the firewall, tucked up under the dash; and requires the benefit of a flexible socket, a couple long extensions, and a trained monkey to reach. Standing on your head is also helpful…
The plugs on a Sunbeam Tiger. The water pump on a Lotus Europa.
Changing the plugs on my parent’s 73 Chrysler New Yorker with the 440 engine was no fun.
Years ago, while working on the Chrysler MiniVan team, we had a saying to describe the tightness of the engine compartment: “You can drop a dime in there and it won’t hit the ground”.
2004 Mazda 6 with the 6 cyl. The serpentine belt was difficult. Transverse mounted engine, and the frame rail was so close to the engine most wrenches (and forget your arm) wouldn’t fit. Also the headlights. In the owners manual it said the dealer had to replace them. You had to remove the battery to get to one of them. Ps. It also ate headlight bulbs
Two spark plugs on my ’75 Pacer were buried in the firewall.
Definitely the rear spark plugs on the ’77 Pontiac TransAm 6.6L. My hands are just too large to do it. Fortunately, my then girlfriend (and now wife for 42 years) has much smaller hands. Perfect in many ways!
I have a terrible time reaching the spare tire on my Caterham 7 from the driver’s seat. Otherwise everything else is pretty accessible on that car.
My Seven doesn’t have a spare or a place to mount one, so no problems there for me…
Oh yes and I just remembered another one. Changing the blower motor on said T/A. Have to cut a hole (didn’t want to) or remove the right wheel well to do it.
At 81 years old, EVERYTHING.
My vote is the nut on the top bolt of a Triumph TR6 starter motor. You need to be shoulder-deep in the engine compartment after removing the 6 bolts holding the air cleaner on the dual carbs. Hold the nut between the first and second fingers of your right hand, then sneak it into the slot in the starter while party #2 gently turns the bolt from under the car (or better, from the passenger footwell with the transmission cover removed). Don’t get clever and use a box wrench unless you want to leave it there forever.