What Places Are Notoriously Hard to Reach on Your Car?
We all have to dig into our vehicles to repair, replace or simply retrieve something at some point. Be it addressing a bad exhaust manifold gasket, failed starter, or your cell phone that slid between the seat and the console, some places are notoriously hard to reach. Sometimes it feels like this was created by design, especially when you need to get something done quickly.
This week’s question should generate many unique stories and relatable tales of painfully difficult things to reach in your vehicle. There are just some places that are so much harder than others, especially on some vehicles. For me, it’s the ritual of doing an oil change on my Lincoln Mark VIII, because I truly hate the filter location.
See the Mobil 1 oil filter nestled deep within the engine cradle, further obscured by the anti-roll bar underneath? Granted, I’ve made this job harder for myself, as said bar is a much larger piece from Addco. While access to spin the oil filter off from the block is straightforward, the oil pours down the engine cradle (all around the pictured metal/rubber hose) and collects at the divot in the cradle’s sheetmetal. It’s a mess, especially since there’s another divot which requires careful placement of your oil pan to ensure it catches used oil from both locations.
It’s a hot mess (literally), but I haven’t even discussed the real chore: getting the oil filter between the engine and that Addco bar. The trick is to stick your pointer finger in the oil filter, clamp down with said finger, and pull down hard so it slides past the bar.
I’ve owned this car for over two decades and can change the oil without frustration, but this filter is still “notoriously hard” to reach. So now I shall kick the question back to you:
What places are notoriously hard to reach on your car?
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Here’s one that I doubt will have come up: on a Citroën 2CV, the front brakes are mounted inboard, on the gearbox transaxle. If you have model with drum brakes, it is close to impossible to get a finger behind the drum to hold the centre pin for the shoe hold-down spring. Of course while you are trying to hold the pin in place, you have to be pushing and twisting the spring-and-cup from the other side. And remember, all of this is happening with your arms outstretched, due to the inboard location of the brakes. It probably took me 20+ attempts, over several hours to get all four springs in place.
Replacing bettery in 2001 Beetle Turbo; turnsignal parking light on 2007 Honda Ridgeline (turn wheel, remove plastic inner wheel well shell).
I agree with RAY A, only my problem is with my ‘74 super beetle. 1835cc with two Webbers which put the carbs out towards the fender well. And just try to get to those 2 front spark plugs out. Or trying to get to the jets on those carbs, you gotta have child hands! I may have to make an access panel on the inside of the wheel well.
I have a 2003 Porsche Boxster I have had since new. It is hard to reach almost anything in the engine compartment. It is so tight in there if a bug crawls in it has to back out the way it came in.
have a SBC 350 with ceramic Flowtech Headers, sparkplugs #5 and #6 very difficult to remove/replace. Am told that there is a special socket for these locations. Anyone know what I need?
Spark plugs forever. I use 3 different configurations of wrenches. I use a long 3/8″ extension on a rachet, the farther away from the knuckle busting stuff the better. A tip, if you use a padded spark plug socket with an attachable swivel, use a padded spark plug socket WITH the swivel built in, that little difference means a lot in close quarters. Sometimes an access hole in the inner fender helps, some of the big domestics did that in the ’60’s & ’70’s.
Distributor Cap, Rotor Cap, Plugs and Plug wires on a 1996 Buick Roadmaster.
oil filter on 2016 Expedition 3.5L – multiple things to remove, blind access, oil draining from multiple places.
Middle header bolts on a Buick 455. If you’ve ever done it, you know what I mean.
I found using an allen head cap screw sometimes great with headers. And a ball head wrench allows some added flexibilty.
Sanjeev, you should temporarily place some aluminum foil over the area(s) that get affected when dumping that oil first. A little time spent doing this before removing that oil filter saves a lot of work, and keeps those bits free of the oilly mess.
That’s a great idea! Between that and the paper bag over the filter (mentioned elsewhere in the comments) I will have a much cleaner Mark VIII after its next oil change. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
No, no, no – not a paper bag – use plastic, sir!
I had a 72 suburban with a 454 and air condition and it was impossible to change the no 8 spark plug. When I changed my plugs I only changed 7 and it seemed to run ok. I was told that the #8 plug never got changed routinely like the others and probably still had the original plug.
For those who change their own oil and oil filter, you may want to consider relocating the oil filter and installing an oil drain valve with a hose that allows more control over the route taken by oil coming out of your oil pan. These two mods can make a huge positive difference on some vehicles.
Jaguar E-type rear brake calipers are true misery to replace. There is no upper access on later models. It canoe done with skinny hands with long fingers, but t is usually easier to drop the entire rear end.
I have a 2004 Mazda Miata NB and the oil filter is very difficult to get to. Under the air intake, behind the alternator and blocked by the right strut tower. You feel a little bit like a racoon fishing in muddy water and I found a pair of filter pliers at Home depot that make it a cinch. Although there is no turning back as they do pierce the casing.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Channellock-9-in-Oil-Filter-and-PVC-Slip-Joint-Pliers-209/202247297
Power steering pump located below the alternator on our 261 Chevy six
To check the fluid level