Piston Slap: Can We Even Call It Wax Anymore?
Hagerty Community Member DUB6 writes:
Sajeev, since it’s nearing the time of year that I traditionally apply a coat of “paste wax” to my classic, cover it and put it away for a winter nap, I wonder if you (and the Community) would help me understand what types of protection there is out in today’s world, and the pros and cons of each?
For instance, carnuba used to be a big buzzword, but these days I see ceramic a lot, so obviously things have progressed in that world. Are the wash/wax combination products viable, or just a scam?
Not really looking for specific brand name recommendations, but I realize that a lot of “car wax” isn’t even made of wax! What’s the scoop, sir?
Sajeev answers:
This is a fantastic question, so sit down and enjoy the ride. The question about car wash/wax products is easy to answer: This combo works for vehicles that need basic care by owners with only a few minutes of spare time. But they generally have a low amount of protective “wax” in them, low enough for me to deem them unworthy of specialty vehicles owned by the Hagerty Community. Especially for DUB6’s delightful Pontiac GTO!
I heartily discourage car enthusiasts from using all-in-one car wash products; instead buy separate chemicals, and (generally) enjoy longer lasting shine and protection. Now to the main event: Decoding the sheer volume of wax products in a logical manner.
I had the pleasure interviewing the folks at Turtle Wax over 15 years ago, leading me to believe that waxes were just as marketing driven as potato chips. But times have changed, as we now have Doritos Dinamita Flamin’ Hot Queso chips (yes, really), but only three catch-all classifications for “wax” products. So let’s discuss this trinity of protective paint coatings in greater detail.
Waxing by Mother Nature
Traditional waxes are typically made out of carnauba wax, a naturally occurring product of the Copernicia prunifera tree. It is sourced (ethically, or perhaps not) from farmers in Brazil. As a finished product, it gives a deep, glossy shine that can even fill in small scratches. Wax lasts for weeks or months, and is quite labor intensive both on application and when buffing off. We’ve been using this stuff for decades and they are tragically antiquated, so let’s move on.
Sealing By Polymer
In stark contrast to carnauba, polymers aren’t waxes. They are a complicated concoction of science stuff (technical term) that creates a chemical sealer. It’s hard to know what’s exactly in these sealers, as most companies treat it as a proprietary blend on par with Coca-Cola’s secret recipe. But whatever they are, the end result is pretty fantastic.
Application and removal of polymer sealer is easy and it lasts for months, possibly even over a year (when indoors, speaking from experience). The shine isn’t quite as deep and glossy as carnauba, especially if the surface isn’t treated to a polish or clay bar beforehand.
Coating By Ceramics
Likely best explained as a “semi-permanent, non-metallic, inorganic protective clear coat” by these folks, ceramic coatings share more in common with the Corningware found in your kitchen than it does with wax from a carnauba tree. And much like those dishes, ceramic coatings are the most durable (lasting years, depending on vehicle storage) and provide a high shine. But they are the most expensive product, and generally lack the depth of gloss found in wax.
Adding to the expense is the need for polishing and paint correction to ensure the deepest and shiniest paint job after application of ceramic coating. Ceramics are harder to apply, in stark contrast to carnauba wax which easily fills in small imperfections and gives a deep glow to a paint job. Finally, ceramic coatings must be washed with the correct soap, and doing otherwise will significantly shorten its lifespan.
Consider The Spray-On Delivery Method?
The three classifications discussed are most commonly associated with a product you apply by hand and buff off. (Ceramic coatings technically have excess material you wipe away, if you want to split hairs.) But the same technologies are available in a spray wax, which makes things more convenient.
Ceramic spray waxes have a silicone infused (for lack of a better word) formulation that lasts for months, are generally easy to apply, and seem to be the most expensive. Polymer sprays are even easier to apply, last a couple of months, and are cheaper than ceramics. Carnauba sprays usually have the best shine/gloss, are very easy to apply, but only last a couple of weeks.
If you aren’t confused enough yet, consider that Turtle Wax has a hybrid lineup that marries the benefits of polymers and ceramics in a package more affordable than most pure ceramic options. Considering what a big deal hybrid powertrain vehicles are these days, maybe hybrid waxes are the best of all worlds?
Final Thoughts / What I Use
After speaking to the folks at Turtle Wax, it’s clear that carnauba is best for a show car that must pass muster with judges. Everyone else would likely benefit from either mid-priced polymer sealers or higher dollar ceramic coatings. The latter wasn’t popular when I met with Turtle Wax in 2009, but they have proven themselves across multiple industries. I’m just spitballing here, but consider ceramic coatings if you have an off-road vehicle, as it would clean up with a garden hose and very little else. For people in the middle of these use cases, consider polymer sealers.
Back to my recommendation: A paint correction shop near me swore by Duragloss Aquawax 952, and they let me try their stash of this polymer coating. I could not believe how easy it went on and off the car. It even acts like moisturizer to the dry, thin, single-stage paint job on the red Mercury Cougar pictured here, getting significantly glossier after three heavy coats. It works magic on glass and rubber seals, too. My gushing over this product might be indicative of many polymer coatings, but this is the best one I’ve seen for the dollar.
Speaking of value, I buy this polymer sealer by the gallon (about $55) and pour it into a spray bottle. It’s a great value, presumably because Duragloss spends very little money on advertising or product placement at retailers. I am happy with how long it lasts (3-12 months in my case) and it’s certainly nice to avoid dumping an empty, 16-fluid-ounce plastic bottle into the landfill twice a year.
As always, your mileage may vary. But now you know the three types of, ahem, waxes you have at your disposal. I have a feeling most folks need a polymer sealer, but we shall see what populates in the comments!
Ceramics is the new Permaplate. Before that is was Teflon, Polyglycoat and Ming coating (it’s not a wax).
zzzzzz.
Polyglycoat was amazing! I had a refrigerator white 1976 Capri with Polyglycoat on it and we would watch snow build up a few inches and then just slide right off. Bugs just rinsed right off, same with tar. Like ceramics, it was a pain to apply, requiring removal of all previous waxes and polish but the end result was worth it.
Use what is easiest for YOU. It does no good if you dislike the product and don’t use it. We used to use the multi step product but it was like waxing THREE times (cleaner, glaze, wax) and that got tiresome. Now we just use the once a year synthetic stuff on the daily driver and spray wax on the fun car as it doesn’t spend much time outside. Keeping things CLEAN with a good CAR WASH soap is the most important. The paint will tell you when it’s time to wax again when it doesn’t bead like it used to.
You forgot the Miyagi wax method.
I have always used Carnauba wax but a friend suggested we give my 1990 Esprit a ceramic treatment. He has done several cars and said he’d help. About $75 in materials with $50 for a little bottle of the ceramic coating. A deep washing, then clay bar, then another deep washing. Next day applying the ceramic liquid and buffing it off. All processes by hand. It’s been just over two years, the car is Lotus new racing green, A65. On a sunny day you need sunglasses to look at it. When it rains the water forms little balls of water and rolls off. My friend expects it to last 8 to 10 years, it is parked inside when not used. Too much work for a daily driver but for my classics, in my opinion, a ceramic coat is the way to go.
Thanks, Sajeev. All good to know.
However, I found myself wondering which decades are *most* tragically antiquated: “We’ve been using this stuff for decades and they are tragically antiquated, so let’s move on.” My vote is for the 1960s…
I am gonna go for the 1970s, because nothing says Malaise like catalytic converters and trying to buff off carnauba after accidentally letting it dry too much after application.
Was afraid the comments would become a brand war which is similar to “oil wars,” “gas wars,” etc. Nice to see that it didn’t – almost.
For a very brief overview of product types this was ok. I have found that with the products on the market today, you can get excellent results with all types — IF you prepare the paint surface properly (which somehow got to be called “paint correction.” Who comes up w/this lingo?) Cleaning the windshield interior however is still the bain of car detailing.
paint prep, paint correction…hmm…yup, the latter sounds more expensive
I have found that black carnauba wax works great on black or dark blue cars, looks like a mirror! Wished they came in more colors
I believe the clear coat on the car has a lot to due with it. My daughters 2015 silver Chevrolet Equinox was parked outside and had excessive bird dropping and leaves and dirt.on it ad she hardly ever washed it in the nine years she owned it. When she gave it to my son this summer it took a few days to clean in and out.There were no stains in the clear coat yet my 2021 Colorado that gets cleaned often gets stains in day or two if not cleaned.
Bottom line.
Ace it, polish available in US only, I order and pick up across boarder. hits all your needs and even on Harley’s black engine fins doesn’t the black grey. .
I also use this on trim, windows, shower glass, stainless fridge stove. I went so far as trying on my C7 convertible roof repeals water. Awesome.
Amazon has a gallon of Aquawax 952 for $41.84. I can remember waxing my Mom’s 60 Impala with Dupont #7.
Anybody remember Power Gloss? Out of California. Was mainly silicone and required two coats and lots of buffing, but provided a long lasting deep shine. The only problem was if you ever needed body repair, nothing, including paint would stick to it. Wish they still made it. I have an empty bottle of it on my garage shelf just for the memories of those long summer days spent buffing. “Nothing good comes easy”.
Gentlemen great info.
I have a totally restore 67 L79 Vette with lacquer paint , I had it professionally polished and coated with products from IGL great stuff google it ,my paint is over 10 years old & looks new
So even though carnuba is ” tragically antiquated ” it sounds like the best choice according to this article.ill stick with my mequires paste wax i apply ever spring.will never waste money on ceramic.
from all these products or others, whats best for 50+ year old lacquor paint on a 63 vette, I always used Turtle Wax or Turtle rubbing compound ?
I’ve been using the DriWash products since the 1990s and my classic and daily drivers always have a great shine. I don’t like traditional wash and waxing and water quality does some damage regardless.
When I sold my 20 year old Grand Marquis I was asked by the buyer who painted the car. He could not believe it was original paint. DriWash was the only product used on that car’s paint.
DriWash is no longer manufactured, so I’m looking for a similar replacement.